Cool !
Cool !Push to 200. In daylight you’ll be fine.
You can post flash, or better yet latensify the roll to bring down contrast.
It’s still markedly smoother than TMY @ box speed.
I shot a roll of TMX 645 yesterday, in sunshine and sunshine shade, on a zone focus Ikonta.
I was there @ f8 with a yellow filter at box speed with speeds going from 200 to 25.
Real sharp on almost every frame.
You have quite a slice of sharp to play with.
Especially for medium format, judging distance and using your body is 90% faster than faffing about with a rangefinder at max or close to max aperture.
SLR focusing is even worse.
Zone focus was introduced with the Leica, for film that was markedly slower than today’s slow film.
If you want to shoot in the street, quickly and on the move, zone-focusing is the only way to go. I sometimes don't even lift the camera to my eye, having a good idea of the field-of-view of the lens I am using. The resulting shots can be much more dynamic and interesting. I use zone focusing with AF cameras, too--it is faster, eliminates focus-hunting and the need to place the subject in the autofocus zone.People who have not zone focused think it's difficult: it's very easy. Anyone can be good at it in a week.
Absolutely.If you want to shoot in the street, quickly and on the move, zone-focusing is the only way to go. I sometimes don't even lift the camera to my eye, having a good idea of the field-of-view of the lens I am using. The resulting shots can be much more dynamic and interesting. I use zone focusing with AF cameras, too--it is faster, eliminates focus-hunting and the need to place the subject in the autofocus zone.
Very careful could also be very contrived.Zone focus? I never do that.
I always focus and compose my shots.
One thing a photograph does is to show everything, it doesn’t lie. You difn’t compose? It will show.
You got lucky? It will show.
You got the moment but the composition is shit? It will show.
You gave been very careful? It will show.
And if you ask me, a good composition always wins above all else.
Yes, with a 28mm at f/5.6 we get both DOF and sharpness at 1/60 and even 1/30 with some care... At EI160, I mean...I zone focus with Tmax 100. I don't find 100 speed to be particularly slow. I'm not one to keep off of lower shutter speeds while handheld.
Tmax100 is one of the greatest films available in my very humble opinion. I love the stuff, almost as good as Plus X.
As in Mercury and other few planets...You can zone focus PanF+ if there's enough light.
As in Mercury and other few planets...
PanF+ for constant zone focus is stretching things a bit.
But if you can do it, great for you.
Pfft!Many people find Tmax films too muddy for something like street photography. I'd agree with them. Yes, the film is sharp - but it seems to be made for scanning, not for enlarging.
Yes, with a 28mm at f/5.6 we get both DOF and sharpness at 1/60 and even 1/30 with some care... At EI160, I mean...
That covers from bright light to gray overcast: all common types of light outdoors for street photography subjects.
Two thirds of a stop are a difference: even one third. It can be seen in wet prints.100 or 160 is close enough to make no difference. That's a half stop, I'd wager most of my cameras are off a half stop somewhere or another.
Yes.TMax films were engineered into existence in the first place as a potential replacement for several important older films via its tremendous development flexibility. But old dogs don't learn new tricks very well, so there was some growling and barking. But the concept was very solid, the quality control is superb, and yes, it's hard to think of more outright versatile films. The caveat is that you need to understand specific distinctions, and how to control these. I'm very familiar with many films of today and many of yesterday, and shoot formats all the way from 35mm to 8x10. I can (and have) explained on numerous threads the real advantages of TMax films, and don't intend to repeat much of that here. I do love other films too, including FP4, HP5, Acros, etc etc. But my most trusted product in terms of all the subjects and wide range of lighting conditions I personally encounter is TMax (I shoot it in both speeds). Is it the best beginner film? No. It's not as forgiving of errors, like that shoot from the hip "latitude" nonsense on the previous thread. Get a real light meter, and be sure it's properly calibrated.
I get what you mean about composing and focusing versus shoot from the hip. I explained shooting from the hip to my son Saturday on one of our walks. I setup for it. But I didn’t take a shot with that setup because no interesting subject appeared. Well, no. There were some people walking in an interesting scene but I was still talking so I missed the shot.Too many misconceptions in this thread
Two thirds of a stop are a difference: even one third. It can be seen in wet prints.
Also, it's not the same 2/3 of a stop if we talk about over exposing an ISO400 film, than underexposing an ISO100 film, which has less room for pushing from a film design point of view.
Apart, developers react differently to that... With 2/3 of a stop below what Perceptol needs, we lose all of that developer qualities.
Trying to get a good 160 from TMX requires metering skills: it's a more precise task than trying to get 640 from HP5+. Or than exposing HP5+ at 250...
Sure!Too many misconceptions in this thread
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