Is shooting Lucky 200C at ISO 160 on a Yashica FX-3 Super 2000 a good practice?

Hello everyone,

I have a question about exposure and would really appreciate the opinion of more experienced film photographers.

I’m currently shooting a roll of Lucky 200C (ISO 200 color negative, C-41) in a Yashica FX-3 Super 2000. The camera has a simple TTL light meter with LED indicators in the viewfinder: one LED for underexposure, a green LED for correct exposure, and one LED for overexposure. There is no half-stop indication in the viewfinder, only these three references.

I’ve been studying film exposure and learned that color negative film generally tolerates overexposure better than underexposure, especially when it comes to protecting shadows and achieving pleasant skin tones. Because of that, I’m considering setting the camera to ISO 160 instead of 200, which would effectively give me about +½ stop of exposure.

My question is:

Does it make sense to shoot the entire roll at ISO 160 (roughly +½ stop overexposed) and then develop it normally as ISO 200, without requesting push or pull processing?

My goals are:

• Better shadow detail
• Avoid slightly underexposed frames
• More pleasing skin tones in portraits
• Balanced contrast overall

I’m also unsure when it might be better to keep the film rated at ISO 200 instead — for example, in very harsh midday sunlight or extremely bright scenes.

Would you recommend rating this film at 160 as a general approach? Or is it better to shoot at box speed (ISO 200) and compensate only in specific lighting situations?

I would really appreciate more technical insight on how you would rate this film and how you would handle exposure using a simple LED-based meter like the one in the FX-3.

Thanks in advance.

Shooting it at 160 will be fine. 200 as well.

1/3 of a stop won't make it or break it.

brbo said:

Shooting it at 160 will be fine. 200 as well.

1/3 of a stop won't make it or break it.

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I'm thinking of setting it to +1 stop... would that be the perfect point? The photos will only be taken on a very sunny day...

Very few people have ever shot Lucky 200C, so you won't get much feedbacks. On the other hand, why don't you do the experiment and share your results with the community here? Shoot a few different scenes (well lit sunny, under cloud, in shadow) at different ISO (200, 160, 125, 100). Preferably with a color checker in the scene. Then scan with same manual settings and let us know your findings.

Pedroga said:

I'm thinking of setting it to +1 stop... would that be the perfect point? The photos will only be taken on a very sunny day...

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Most color negative film shot using an in-camera meter will be better with +1 stop, yes. Because these meters tend to underexpose if there is sky or bright objects in the scene, and overexposure on consumer color negative does very little to degrade the image generally. For something like Kodak Gold for example, you can even go +5 stops and still get decent pictures.

In other words, you'll get more keepers at +1 (or even +2) stops than at box speed.

If you find yourself somewhere quite dark where you need to handhold, you can change it back to 200 speed mid-roll. Or, if your subject is black or dark gray in color.

blee1996 said:

Very few people have ever shot Lucky 200C, so you won't get much feedbacks. On the other hand, why don't you do the experiment and share your results with the community here? Shoot a few different scenes (well lit sunny, under cloud, in shadow) at different ISO (200, 160, 125, 100). Preferably with a color checker in the scene. Then scan with same manual settings and let us know your findings.

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I'm going to do it, or at least try... it's my first time ever doing this.

loccdor said:

Most color negative film shot using an in-camera meter will be better with +1 stop, yes. Because these meters tend to underexpose if there is sky or bright objects in the scene, and overexposure on consumer color negative does very little to degrade the image generally. For something like Kodak Gold for example, you can even go +5 stops and still get decent pictures.

In other words, you'll get more keepers at +1 (or even +2) stops than at box speed.

If you find yourself somewhere quite dark where you need to handhold, you can change it back to 200 speed mid-roll. Or, if your subject is black or dark gray in color.

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So it's better to leave it at +1 stop than +1/2stop?

Pedroga said:

So it's better to leave it at +1 stop than +1/2stop?

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For TTL metering, unless it's a very unusual color negative film, yes.

I shot my Lucky C200 in a compact (so at box speed of 200) and it was fine.

Just shoot it... or it will expire long before Photrio is done offering advice on how to shoot a damn consumer 200 ISO film.

It's NOT a rocket science. Really.

If this wasn't Lucky film, my advice would be to follow the manufacturer's box speed recommendation, because cameras like yours were designed to use that and to give users like you pleasing results in the sort of situations you are likely to use it.
If you consistently see signs of under-exposure - or for that matter over-exposure - you could consider making a consistent adjustment.
That exposure adjustment approach makes good sense if you use it intentionally, in response to particular lighting conditions, and/or particular subjects
For example, if you were photographing a snow scene, or something in the forest, you can make a decision about exposure adjustment because of the unusual nature of the light or the subject.
As it is Lucky film, there may not be much knowledge out there yet about how well the box speed performance matches the performance of more commonly used films. There also may be changes to the film, as it is relatively new on the market.
So for that reason, I would be reluctant to build my "standard practice" on that film. If I was using it for something important, I would bracket exposures.

brbo said:

I shot my Lucky C200 in a compact (so at box speed of 200) and it was fine.

Just shoot it... or it will expire long before Photrio is done offering advice on how to shoot a damn consumer 200 ISO film.

It's NOT a rocket science. Really.

Click to expand...

My question isn't about the ISO itself, but about the exposure. In the photos you took, did you overexpose them?

MattKing said:

If this wasn't Lucky film, my advice would be to follow the manufacturer's box speed recommendation, because cameras like yours were designed to use that and to give users like you pleasing results in the sort of situations you are likely to use it.
If you consistently see signs of under-exposure - or for that matter over-exposure - you could consider making a consistent adjustment.
That exposure adjustment approach makes good sense if you use it intentionally, in response to particular lighting conditions, and/or particular subjects
For example, if you were photographing a snow scene, or something in the forest, you can make a decision about exposure adjustment because of the unusual nature of the light or the subject.
As it is Lucky film, there may not be much knowledge out there yet about how well the box speed performance matches the performance of more commonly used films. There also may be changes to the film, as it is relatively new on the market.
So for that reason, I would be reluctant to build my "standard practice" on that film. If I was using it for something important, I would bracket exposures.

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I'm a bit hesitant to trust my camera's light meter and not get satisfactory colors.

Pedroga said:

I'm a bit hesitant to trust my camera's light meter and not get satisfactory colors.

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If the meter is already giving you negatives with too much exposure, increasing the exposure even more will make things worse.
Cameras like this were designed for photographers like you. The centre weighted metering was designed to minimize the effects from too much sky and other common metering challenges. You should try it as it is before you consider making systematic changes.
I know that it is easy for someone like me to give this advice, but if it gives you any comfort, its advice I have given to many people over a very long time, including a few years actually selling cameras like this (although not this specific model) to people, and then helping them understand the results.

If you have only a single of roll of any color film then shooting +1/2 or so stop is not a bad idea. If you are planning on shooting multiple rolls then sacrifice a roll and test by shooting a ring around. In soft even shade shoot a test set up, if you have color chart have a model hold it and shoot at ISO 50, 100, 160, 200, 250 and 400, then repeat in the open, maybe at sunset at well. Standard development and printing. If you are using a mini lab make the lab prints at 000 with no auto correction.

Paul Howell said:

If you have only a single of roll of any color film then shooting +1/2 or so stop is not a bad idea. If you are planning on shooting multiple rolls then sacrifice a roll and test by shooting a ring around. In soft even shade shoot a test set up, if you have color chart have a model hold it and shoot at ISO 50, 100, 160, 200, 250 and 400, then repeat in the open, maybe at sunset at well. Standard development and printing. If you are using a mini lab make the lab prints at 000 with no auto correction.

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I would use a good part of the roll doing what @Paul Howell suggests, with the rest of the roll being used for the type of photos you like.
That will give you lots of information.

You would be fine rating your ISO 200 film at EI 160. I shot weddings professionally 30+ years ago, and I would routinely change the rating of my color neg emulsions -1/3EV in order to reduce chances that shadow areas would be underexposed, rendering color in those areas 'muddy'. While I would often supplement sunny conditions with fill flash to fill in the shadows, the speed rating further helped to reduce the likelihood of underexposure.

Pedroga said:

My question isn't about the ISO itself, but about the exposure. In the photos you took, did you overexpose them?

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?! Why would I say I shot the film at box speed, but in reality overexpose it?

If you shoot Portra, Gold, Lucky, etc, setting the exposure +1 will help you get better results on those likely 2-4 shots in an average roll that trick your camera's meter, while not hurting the others. It's a no brainer set-it-and-forget-it that will help the 95+% of users who aren't chasing that last little diminishing return of accuracy. It's not a Velvia transparency where you need 1/3 stop multi-spot metering accuracy and a graduated ND filter.