Is it necessary to buy software?

ChristopherCoy · Apr 25, 2020

I've received my V330 that I purchased as an intro to scanning 35mm film. I've looked at online information and everything suggests that silverfast is the best. However, I do not want to purchase something that I wont fully use.

What are the reasons one would choose Silverfast over the Epson software? I doubt I'll shoot much color film, so the majority of what I scan will be black and white for use in cyanotypes etc.

Are there any advantages to using Silverfast over the normal Epson software?

NortheastPhotographic · Apr 25, 2020

If you use Lightroom I would scan with Epson and then convert with Negative Lab Pro.

https://www.negativelabpro.com/

ChristopherCoy · Apr 25, 2020

NortheastPhotographic said:
If you use Lightroom I would scan with Epson and then convert with Negative Lab Pro.

https://www.negativelabpro.com/

LR is my main editing suite, so that's tremendously good information! Thanks!

Alan Edward Klein · Apr 25, 2020

I used an Epson V600 for all my scanning. Check my Flickr page for samples. I used Epsonscan for all scanning and then edited in either PS Elements or Lightroom. A few BW's may have had some adjustments in Silver Efex Pro. I found Epsonscan straightforward. I usually scanned flat and did all my adjustment afterward in the aforementioned editing programs. I never tried the other programs. Good luck. https://www.flickr.com/photos/alanklein2000/albums

Ko.Fe. · Apr 25, 2020

ChristopherCoy said:
I've received my V330 that I purchased as an intro to scanning 35mm film. I've looked at online information and everything suggests that silverfast is the best. However, I do not want to purchase something that I wont fully use.

What are the reasons one would choose Silverfast over the Epson software? I doubt I'll shoot much color film, so the majority of what I scan will be black and white for use in cyanotypes etc.

Are there any advantages to using Silverfast over the normal Epson software?

Zero advantages. I wish other scanner manufacturers has this good software are Epson did.
Just in case I have SilverPast and VuScan. But I use them with another scanners.

shutterfinger · Apr 25, 2020

The V330 is your weakest link. Cutting edge software such as Silverfast will not make up for its deficiencies.
EpsonScan>Professional>Configuration>Color-no color correction for max detail in the scan, adjust in post for best image.
V500,V550,V600,V700,V750,V800,V850 (Photo)
4990 if you can find one.
Plustek 8xxx.

ChristopherCoy · Apr 25, 2020

shutterfinger said:
The V330 is your weakest link. Cutting edge software such as Silverfast will not make up for its deficiencies.
EpsonScan>Professional>Configuration>Color-no color correction for max detail in the scan, adjust in post for best image.
V500,V550,V600,V700,V750,V800,V850 (Photo)
4990 if you can find one.
Plustek 8xxx.

yes, this has already been established and I am aware.

Wallendo · Apr 25, 2020

Try the Epson software. If you are happy with it, there is no reason to change.

If you feel limited, you can try other software.

ChristopherCoy · Apr 25, 2020

I had downloaded the Silverfast trial version and used it for a scan a few hours ago. I just downloaded the Epson software and tried a scan with it. I feel like the simplicity of the Epson software will suit my needs, but then I'm not sure what my needs ARE either.

The ONLY reason I need to scan negatives is so that I can enlarge them into digital negatives for contact printing, and maybe just having a digital "contact sheet" in order to choose printable options.

I guess I'm going to use the Epson software until the times comes that I feel I need something else.

I'm not even sure why I need Negative Lab Pro for Lightroom though.

brbo · Apr 26, 2020

You definitely don't need Negative Lab Pro and Epson Scan is all you need. Especially if you only intend to scan BW.

ChristopherCoy · Apr 26, 2020

brbo said:
You definitely don't need Negative Lab Pro and Epson Scan is all you need. Especially if you only intend to scan BW.

Thanks. I kept looking at Neg Lap Pro last night wondering what exactly it would do for me.

jtk · Apr 26, 2020

If you want to buy that software you are the perfect customer.

ChristopherCoy · Apr 26, 2020

jtk said:
If you want to buy that software you are the perfect customer.

What's that supposed to mean?

jtk · Apr 26, 2020

ChristopherCoy said:
What's that supposed to mean?

Means wanting to buy poorly documented software for funky hardware says something.

ChristopherCoy · Apr 26, 2020

jtk said:
Means wanting to buy poorly documented software for funky hardware says something.

The only thing it says is that I have a scanner with no software and I'm trying to find a starting point. The fact that my hardware is inferior has been well pointed out and well documented.

But thanks for the additional snub.

Ariston · Apr 26, 2020

I use Epson's software. I have Aftershot for editing, but use it very rarely. I got Silverfast for free, but haven't really used it yet. I'm curious to see its film matching settings, but haven't had the time to learn it.

Silverfast won't change the scan quality. It will just give different color profiles, etc.

Mainecoonmaniac · Apr 26, 2020

ChristopherCoy said:
I've received my V330 that I purchased as an intro to scanning 35mm film. I've looked at online information and everything suggests that silverfast is the best. However, I do not want to purchase something that I wont fully use.

What are the reasons one would choose Silverfast over the Epson software? I doubt I'll shoot much color film, so the majority of what I scan will be black and white for use in cyanotypes etc.

Are there any advantages to using Silverfast over the normal Epson software?

I got a copy of Silverfast along with Epson's scanner software years ago when I bought my Epson V700. I scan mostly black and white and the Epson software works fine for what I do. I find Silverfast overwhelming. It became unusable when I upgraded my Mac OS. I would use what you have before thinking of buying Silverfast. The money for the software can buy a lot of film.

Alan Edward Klein · Apr 26, 2020

I just upgraded from an Epson V600 using Epsonscan to an Epson V850 that comes with Epsonscan and:

LaserSoft Imaging® SilverFast SE PLUS
X-rite i1 Scanner with reflective/transparent IT8 targets

I'll be scanning Velvia 50 and Provia chomes and Ektar 100 color negative and BW negative film- 35mm, medium format 6x7 and large format 4x5's.

When would I need the bulleted items?

Alan Edward Klein · Apr 26, 2020

I also use Lightroom, PS Elements and Silver Efex in post editing.

Bob Carnie · Apr 26, 2020

ChristopherCoy said:
I had downloaded the Silverfast trial version and used it for a scan a few hours ago. I just downloaded the Epson software and tried a scan with it. I feel like the simplicity of the Epson software will suit my needs, but then I'm not sure what my needs ARE either.

The ONLY reason I need to scan negatives is so that I can enlarge them into digital negatives for contact printing, and maybe just having a digital "contact sheet" in order to choose printable options.

I guess I'm going to use the Epson software until the times comes that I feel I need something else.

I'm not even sure why I need Negative Lab Pro for Lightroom though.

Just make sure you are not clipping at either end, a flat scan is much better than one that looks good to you on screen, also do not sharpen when scanning... If you have a Mac you can put the colour meter on its in applications or utilities, if you use LAB setting you can check your densities at both ends to make sure you are not clipping... anything over around L95 will go to paper white and anything lower than around L6 will go jet black with no details... I feel this is simple advice that will make your scanning more comfortable.

Bob

MattKing · Apr 26, 2020

ChristopherCoy said:
I'm not even sure why I need Negative Lab Pro for Lightroom though.

If you transitioned to using your D700 and a macro lens/bellows to digitize your colour negative film, the Negative Lab Pro would be great for you - it takes the place of the tools built into scanning software which are designed to invert colour negatives, including dealing with the dye impurity compensating orange mask.
Based on what you have posted about your intended use, you don't need it.
As far as Silverfast or Vuescan or any other replacement scanning software is concerned, don't bother unless your experience with the Epson Scan software leads you to the conclusion that you need more flexibility than that software offers.
It is going to be a long time, involving a lot of scans, before you have the knowledge and experience to be able to reasonably come to that conclusion.
Based on what you have posted about your intended use, and the scanner you are working with, you don't need it now, and most likely never will.
Here is the one situation that might cause me to re-visit the advice about Silverfast and Vuescan - if you decided to work with two or more different scanners. For example the V330 for prints and medium format, and another dedicated 35mm film scanner just for 35mm negatives and slides. In that circumstance it might be worth considering switching to software that could be used with both scanners.
Or maybe not - I'd suggest leave that issue until it is relevant.

Alan Edward Klein · Apr 26, 2020

Bob Carnie said:
Just make sure you are not clipping at either end, a flat scan is much better than one that looks good to you on screen, also do not sharpen when scanning... If you have a Mac you can put the colour meter on its in applications or utilities, if you use LAB setting you can check your densities at both ends to make sure you are not clipping... anything over around L95 will go to paper white and anything lower than around L6 will go jet black with no details... I feel this is simple advice that will make your scanning more comfortable.

Bob

Bob, when I scan with V600 and Epsonscan, I adjust the black and white points just outside the range of the histogram. I leave the middle contrast slider where Epson puts it when I reset the ends. Then I change the output settings to 0 and 255 rather than the Epson selected let's say 12 and 243 on the output. I leave ICE off, no sharpening, no anything else. I use 2400 bits, 48 bit color or 16 bit grayscale if BW film. Save as TIFF. Then I edit the scan in post with LR, Elements and/or Silver Efex PRo. What do you think?

I just got a V850. I haven't even set it up yet. Today, maybe. Should I change any of the methods or settings from the V600? I'll be scanning 4x5 as well as medium format and 35mm. Thanks.

Bob Carnie · Apr 26, 2020

Alan Edward Klein said:
Bob, when I scan with V600 and Epsonscan, I adjust the black and white points just outside the range of the histogram. I leave the middle contrast slider where Epson puts it when I reset the ends. Then I change the output settings to 0 and 255 rather than the Epson selected let's say 12 and 243 on the output. I leave ICE off, no sharpening, no anything else. I use 2400 bits, 48 bit color or 16 bit grayscale if BW film. Save as TIFF. Then I edit the scan in post with LR, Elements and/or Silver Efex PRo. What do you think?

I just got a V850. I haven't even set it up yet. Today, maybe. Should I change any of the methods or settings from the V600? I'll be scanning 4x5 as well as medium format and 35mm. Thanks.

Alan

It sound like you are doing everything right... I never worry if the scan looks flat, that is what post processing is for.. Always 16 bit . I am not familiar with the epson scanner , I owned a 16 x 20 unit years ago but now use Creo Eversmart and Imocan.
For both I make sure I never clip .

Bob

wahiba · Apr 26, 2020

I, as an amateur have used my V300 for a few years now and am quite happy with the machine and the Epson software. Being a Lomo guy I like the ability to turn off auto framing on 35mm and then scan the whole strip.

I occasionally use 120 and rather than buying a special scanner i use the Epson with two passes and knit them together with the panoramic feature of PE7. I actually made a card alternative to their holder. Just get the slots in the right place.

I normally use 2400 dpi for 35mm and 1200 dpi for 120, unless it is from a good camera then I might try 120.

Alan Edward Klein · Apr 26, 2020

Bob Carnie said:
Alan

It sound like you are doing everything right... I never worry if the scan looks flat, that is what post processing is for.. Always 16 bit . I am not familiar with the epson scanner , I owned a 16 x 20 unit years ago but now use Creo Eversmart and Imocan.
For both I make sure I never clip .

Bob

Thanks Bob. When I first started scanning, I used the Auto feature on my early scans on 35mm. Stupidly, I threw away those slides. Then I realized I had clipped so many of them. Lesson learned. Never use Auto scan feature. Either scan totally flat, no adjustments. Or set the levels only (Black and white points) to beyond the ends of the histogram.

Is it necessary to buy software?

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