Is BLIX all there is now? (in USA)

[StoneNYC]

Yes, they are different.

Briefly: you process in what is called a "tank solution." During the processing, the tank solution becomes "used up," in some manner. To counteract this, you can add quantities of an extra-strength solution, called "replenisher." These additions allow the tank solution to remain at its normal operating strength.

The addition of replenisher tends to produce a surplus of solution in the processing tanks. Normally, this surplus would be considered as waste. However, it is sometimes possible to collect this surplus then add a "regenerator" mix which converts it back into a replenisher. (I know it seems confusing.)

Nowdays, the only things worth regenerating are probably bleach and, for paper, bleach-fix. In the case of bleach-fix, it's necessary to desilver it first, then aerate prior to regenerating.

Sounds like you have a much more elaborate setup than I and my kitchen sink.... :/


~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[RPC]

I don't know about film and C41, but paper can be developed just fine using just the RA4 replinisher.

Ok, diluted with water of course. Anyone who didn't already know that doesn't have any business jumping into color. Or black and white for that matter.

C-41 is much more sensitive to process changes than RA-4, and the starter must be added to the replenisher for proper results when making a developer working solution.

When I said it must be mixed with water, I meant water must be added to the already mixed replenisher to dilute it, along with the starter. Of course, you could just mix a working solution directly from starter, water, and the replenisher's components, using the right amounts of each.

 

[Mr Bill]

Sounds like you have a much more elaborate setup than I and my kitchen sink.... :/

Nah, I don't even process color myself. But about half my adult working life has been involved with photofinishing, on an "industrial level." So I'm intimately familiar with this sort of thing for color neg/printing. The same exact things will work in your kitchen sink, except that the hassle might outweigh the cost savings. That, and your ability to get the chemicals you need.

 

[chrisaisenbrey]

The VAT (value added tax) is the German sales tax. I’m not so sure if they deduce this when they deliver to private persons outside the EU. Note that you might have to pay US customs and sales taxes. So the best would be to find a reseller in the US. Perhaps a reseller of Rollei films delivers it on request.

I like the Rollei digibase C41 kit, since it allows me to work at 25°C. I’m not so sure if it is a good idea to use large scale chemistry with replenisher and starter if you are developing a film from time to time.

If it is just the bleach and the fix bath it might be easier to brew them yourself. I found here some formulas on a Swiss homepage:

http://www.bonavolta.ch/hobby/en/photo/c41_ra4_chemicals.htm

At the end of the text there is a formula for separated bleach and fix.

Chris

 

[bvy]

http://www.bonavolta.ch/hobby/en/photo/c41_ra4_chemicals.htm

At the end of the text there is a formula for separated bleach and fix.

Ron's C-41 bleach formula seems too good to be true. Is that all it takes is two ingredients -- 80g of potassium ferricyanide and 20g potassium bromide (for one liter)?

 

[RPC]

Ron's C-41 bleach formula seems too good to be true. Is that all it takes is two ingredients -- 80g of potassium ferricyanide and 20g potassium bromide (for one liter)?

It works well, but when you use any ferricyanide bleach formula, the developer must be followed by a stop bath, preferably a clearing stop bath, and a wash before the bleach or the film will stain. The bleach should be followed by a clearing bath and good wash before the fixer. So this is a readily available, cheaper, alternative to Kodak bleach but a more complicated one.

Also note that PE says that such bleaches are not tested with modern films so you are taking a risk in terms of dye stability.

 

[oldlincoln]

If you want seperate bleach and fixer the Kodak Flexicolor SM chmical pack F2 contains a cube of bleach and one of fixer. You use the bleach straight and mix the fixer concentrate 1:1 with water. One pack has enough chemical to process two or three hundred rolls and is fairly compact. Look for these as expired or short date (they will last a long time after the date) on evilbay. I have bought the case pack (2 ea. F2's) for around thirty five bucks shipped.

 

[EdSawyer]

As mentioned, regeneration is different than replenishment. But in practice it's super simple. I have a 5L container of bleach I use. It does about 44-48 rolls in the SSK4. I save the used bleach into a different container (the SSK makes this easy). When the used container of bleach is full, I use Kodak's bleach regenerator to regenerate it. Basically add the 100ml or whatever is needed, shake it up, and then pour it back into the original bleach container. Then start all over again, and do another 44-48 rolls of film.