Is a Rollei b35 lens swap mod possible?

[Radost]

I really like the rollei b35 size and on the lens controls but the trio tar leaves a lot to be desired.
I was wondering if it is possible to modify and install the optical elements of a tessar or even Sonar if I find a broken camera with a nice lens
I understand it will be only F3.5 but I am fine with that. Maybe if the barrel can be reduced?

 

[flavio81]

I really like the rollei b35 size and on the lens controls but the trio tar leaves a lot to be desired.
I was wondering if it is possible to modify and install the optical elements of a tessar or even Sonar if I find a broken camera with a nice lens
I understand it will be only F3.5 but I am fine with that. Maybe if the barrel can be reduced?

The triotar is actually a very good lens, at least at f8 or so. And using it at wider apertures makes no sense when you don't have a rangefinder.

I have the strong suspicion that a previous camera tech has opened the lens for cleaning,and has misadjusted the lens focus. It should be re-calibrated and then tested again.

The sharpest lens for the Rollei 35 cameras is the tessar (no matter what people think). And optical designers will tell you that the difference between a Triplet (i.e. Triotar) and a Tessar is very small, and once stopped down, there isn't any reason for the 3-element lens to be inferior.

 

[flavio81]

I invoke @Nodda Duma , optical designer.

 

[xkaes]

Yikes! Even if you could do it, that's a lot of cost & time. Do you have the experience to do that sort of thing?

Why not just get a Rollei S or T? Are they that much heavier, expensive, etc.?

 

[ic-racer]

If commenting on lens sharpness, make sure the lens is focused on the subject and the camera is on a tripod. The camera is so light, it needs fast shutterspeeds. I have a Triotar in my Rollei 35 and find it acceptable.

One of the best ever zone focusing 35mm cameras I found to be the 35mm lens on a Nikonos. Also, due to the weight, it is easier to use slower shutter speeds compared to the Rollei 35.

 

[Radost]

The triotar is actually a very good lens, at least at f8 or so. And using it at wider apertures makes no sense when you don't have a rangefinder.

I have the strong suspicion that a previous camera tech has opened the lens for cleaning,and has misadjusted the lens focus. It should be re-calibrated and then tested again.

The sharpest lens for the Rollei 35 cameras is the tessar (no matter what people think). And optical designers will tell you that the difference between a Triplet (i.e. Triotar) and a Tessar is very small, and once stopped down, there isn't any reason for the 3-element lens to be inferior.

I shoot a lot of folders so I am pretty accurate zone focusing. I also have a few calibrated rangefinder attachments and if really need them.
My triotar is fine. But I would like to be able to shoot it open without degradation of quality. Honestly even at f8 and up it leaves a lot to be desired.
I really don’t like the rollei 35 aperture and shutter speed wheels. Also my y is bigger.
It’s a bummer they never build a b35 with a tessar.

P. S. Honestly when I compare the Minolta 40mm F2 second generation “multi coated” the quality difference is night and day.

 

[Radost]

Yikes! Even if you could do it, that's a lot of cost & time. Do you have the experience to do that sort of thing?

Why not just get a Rollei S or T? Are they that much heavier, expensive, etc.?

Don’t like that it is bigger and prefer the control on the lens compared to the strange wheels.

 

[xkaes]

Well if size and weight and ease of use are really important, there are lots of cameras much smaller and lighter than the Rollei B35.

 

[Radost]

Well if size and weight and ease of use are really important, there are lots of cameras much smaller and lighter than the Rollei B35.

Which ones. I don’t like the minox.

 

[xkaes]

I wasn't referring to anything smaller than 24x36mm, but since you brought it up, I could start with the Tessina (14x21mm on 35mm film) -- smaller than a pack of cigarettes. And then there is the 16mm realm. My favorite is the Minolta MG-s with a 12x17mm negative and auto & manual exposure. Take a look at the SUBCLUB:

http://www.subclub.org/

 

[Radost]

I wasn't referring to anything smaller than 24x36mm, but since you brought it up, I could start with the Tessina (14x21mm on 35mm film) -- smaller than a pack of cigarettes. And then there is the 16mm realm. My favorite is the Minolta MG-s with a 12x17mm negative and auto & manual exposure. Take a look at the SUBCLUB:

http://www.subclub.org/

Not looking for smaller than 35mm.

 

[xkaes]

Tessina, for example, uses 35mm film, and it's focusing f2.8 lens is sharper than any Rollei 35.

 

[flavio81]

I really don’t like the rollei 35 aperture and shutter speed wheels. Also my y is bigger.
It’s a bummer they never build a b35 with a tessar.

P. S. Honestly when I compare the Minolta 40mm F2 second generation “multi coated” the quality difference is night and day.

I also think the same. The B35 has better ergonomics.

 

[xkaes]

For a pretty complete list of the smallest full-frame 35mm cameras, you can check out:

http://www.subclub.org/shop/aps.htm

It doesn't provide details on all of the cameras, and some of the cameras are APS, not 35, but it's a start.

You might be interested in the Petri Color:

35mm format. (1968) Just about the only attempt to copy the Rollei 35, it was -- in some ways -- an improvement on it, featuring better ergonomics. For example, all controls can be manipulated and monitored while looking through the viewfinder, the hot shoe is not on the bottom, and the film advance lever is on the right side where it belongs. Comparable in size to Rollei 35 or Olympus Pen cameras. When not in use, the lens sinks into the body by turning the top-mounted focus dial all the way back. Also top-mounted are the shutter speed and aperture dials, cable release-threaded shutter release button, hot shoe, battery-test button, advance lever, and ingeniously small rewind crank. Sharp 40mm/2.8 lens, shutter speeds from 1/15 to 1/250 plus B, coupled CDS light meter supporting film speeds to ASA 800 with match-needle display in viewfinder. Zone focus with metric scale shown in viewfinder including head-shot, group-shot, and mountain icons. Made in both chrome and black finishes; cost around $60 new. Succeeded by two autoexposure-only models in the '70's.

 

[Radost]

For a pretty complete list of the smallest full-frame 35mm cameras, you can check out:

http://www.subclub.org/shop/aps.htm

It doesn't provide details on all of the cameras, and some of the cameras are APS, not 35, but it's a start.

You might be interested in the Petri Color:

35mm format. (1968) Just about the only attempt to copy the Rollei 35, it was -- in some ways -- an improvement on it, featuring better ergonomics. For example, all controls can be manipulated and monitored while looking through the viewfinder, the hot shoe is not on the bottom, and the film advance lever is on the right side where it belongs. Comparable in size to Rollei 35 or Olympus Pen cameras. When not in use, the lens sinks into the body by turning the top-mounted focus dial all the way back. Also top-mounted are the shutter speed and aperture dials, cable release-threaded shutter release button, hot shoe, battery-test button, advance lever, and ingeniously small rewind crank. Sharp 40mm/2.8 lens, shutter speeds from 1/15 to 1/250 plus B, coupled CDS light meter supporting film speeds to ASA 800 with match-needle display in viewfinder. Zone focus with metric scale shown in viewfinder including head-shot, group-shot, and mountain icons. Made in both chrome and black finishes; cost around $60 new. Succeeded by two autoexposure-only models in the '70's.

Thank You.

 

[gone]

You're probably used to Tesssar type lenses. The Triotar is a great lens for portraits (even better on the Rolleicords). If you want sharp, you'll have to stop it down more than you would w/ a Tessar.

 

[ciniframe]

Rollei 35 price, of any variety of the model seem to me to be out of line. I had a 35S years ago and prefer my Oly 35RC overall. A little bigger, a fraction more weight, but good lens and rangefinder focusing. Also no need to stow or extend lens for picture taking, (may not be an issue if you leave lens out all the time).
One necessary accessory for the 35RC is a 43.5mm to 43mm filter step down ring to access more available filter and hood sizes. My sample does not interfere with the meter window.

 

[xkaes]

There are several full-frame 35mm cameras that are very small and have a lens that's tucked away when not in use -- but don't require any extra action from the photographer to get it into shooting position. The Chinon Bellami, Cosina CX, Minox 35, Olympus XA, Contax T, and Lomo LC come to mind. Much easier than the Rollei in that regard.

 

[John Koehrer]

wouldn't changing the lens give you the same controls as the b?.

Assuming the Sonnar or Tessar AND the shutters are the same mounting size linkage is the same
you have a definite maybe.
The lenses were all 40mm if I recall but there may be fractions of a mm difference in focal length.
It may be possible to shim the lens but again, how precise can you make any adjustment?

This project may be as simple as the lens swap but I'd start with the measurements of the mount first.

If you can find a repair shop that could measure the diameter or maybe sell you a shutter mounting
plate (with a lens?) that could be another road to travel.

 

[xkaes]

For a pretty complete list of the smallest full-frame 35mm cameras, you can check out:

http://www.subclub.org/shop/aps.htm

It doesn't provide details on all of the cameras, and some of the cameras are APS, not 35, but it's a start.

You might be interested in the Petri Color:

35mm format. (1968) Just about the only attempt to copy the Rollei 35, it was -- in some ways -- an improvement on it, featuring better ergonomics. For example, all controls can be manipulated and monitored while looking through the viewfinder, the hot shoe is not on the bottom, and the film advance lever is on the right side where it belongs. Comparable in size to Rollei 35 or Olympus Pen cameras. When not in use, the lens sinks into the body by turning the top-mounted focus dial all the way back. Also top-mounted are the shutter speed and aperture dials, cable release-threaded shutter release button, hot shoe, battery-test button, advance lever, and ingeniously small rewind crank. Sharp 40mm/2.8 lens, shutter speeds from 1/15 to 1/250 plus B, coupled CDS light meter supporting film speeds to ASA 800 with match-needle display in viewfinder. Zone focus with metric scale shown in viewfinder including head-shot, group-shot, and mountain icons. Made in both chrome and black finishes; cost around $60 new. Succeeded by two autoexposure-only models in the '70's.

Just a bit more information. Petri made two cameras that have similar names, but are very different. I was referring to the camera commonly known as the Petri Color 35 -- that's written on the front of the camera. They also made a much larger camera -- the 35 Petri Color Corrected. Camera companies do these things just to confuse people.

Petri also made a very nice half-frame camera -- the Petri Compact. Petri also sold the same camera as the Petri Dejur, the Petri Junior, and the Petri Half -- again, just to confuse people.

So you end up with the same camera with different names, and different cameras with the same name. No wonder so many people find photography befuddling.

 

[Radost]

This picture caught my attention. Can I swap lenses on the 35 non B or LED version of the camera?

 

[xkaes]

Perhaps you should ask your question in the

Camera Building, Repairs & Modification​

SUB-FORUM (see TOP OF PAGE)

 

[Radost]

Can a mod move it?

 

[MattKing]

Can a mod move it?

As per your request, moved it shall be. Thread title also slightly updated.

 

[r_a_feldman]

This picture caught my attention. Can I swap lenses on the 35 non B or LED version of the camera?

The main question you have to answer for a swap is: Is the film-to-flange distance of the donor lens greater than or equal to the f-to-f distance of the camera you are moving the lens to? If it is less than that distance, then the lens will not focus to infinity.