what is the least sensitive paper on the market today?Tried it. Just took a b/w picture (no negative, that will come when it really works) and exposed it for 5sec. That was too much, so I turned down the screen light as much as possible and exposed for 2 sec. That looked a lot better. Looked a bit like a grade 5 print, but ok. One challenge is not to move the paper when exposing and switching off the ipad. The slide show software is a good idea, I think. And less sensitive paper. The best candidate for that is Foma warmtone, which has to be exposed for ages. Unfortunately I don’t have any at the moment.
Keep on trying.
Regards,
Frank
I remember I had to expose Foma Warmtone rc 4 or 5 times longer than I did MGIV.what is the least sensitive paper on the market today?
This is interesting. I was expecting the RGB structure of the pixels to show on the print: our eyes react in a certain way, but photo paper certainly reacts in a different way.Well, I ran a first test today and there were some problems but, they were quite different from what was predicted here;
1.there was no fuzziness at all.the iPad screen is almost in direct contact with the paper and that makes for a crisp print.
some folks really struggle with a lack of imagination and sped more energy into finding ways why things won't work rather than putting that energy into finding solutions.
This is interesting. I was expecting the RGB structure of the pixels to show on the print: our eyes react in a certain way, but photo paper certainly reacts in a different way.
there are nodiscernable screen pixels showing on the print but the, they are so easily overexposed that that fine detail may be lost.This is interesting. I was expecting the RGB structure of the pixels to show on the print: our eyes react in a certain way, but photo paper certainly reacts in a different way.
Are you doing this in black&white or color?
I figure, the solution could be in preparing the image in PS first. I can dim the image there and apply a color cast to compensate for the blue-rich light of the iPad screen.The bandwidth of my iPad screen is 1:1024, which is a ten stop difference between the 'black' screen and white. You don't want to decrease this at all by lowering the backlight intensity, otherwise the 'black' screen might fog the paper. Use neutral density to control exposure. Rosco ND; a few dollars a sheet.
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3. the biggest issue is the brightness of the screen and ts spectral quality I believe the screen is rather blue-rich.
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3. the biggest issue is the brightness of the screen and ts spectral quality I believe the screen is rather blue-rich.
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3. the biggest issue is the brightness of the screen and ts spectral quality I believe the screen is rather blue-rich.
that doesn't seem to be enough; I have to alter the image in PS before importing into the iPad to get what I need.If you go into settings -> Display & Brightness -> Night shift, you can make the display warmer. Tap the manual button and adjust the slider and you can change the whites from quite blue to horribly yellow and pretty much anything in between.
this idea is definitely worthy of consideration.Probably a pita to use: A large diy box camera. ipad at one end and a pinhole at the other. I doubt there would be complaints about over exposure.
I like take you up on that.what size and can pay you via PayPal?The Seagull warm tone is pretty slow, and there is the ADOX Lupex still available I believe. I have about a half a box of the FOMALUX contact paper here if you want it just cover shipping.
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