Invitation for "Worldwide Pinhole Photography Day 2014" (WPPD-2014) on Sunday, April

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MattKing

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I was more upset with uneven development.

I only have a Cibichrome print drum that will fit 11x14, the drum has a cup at the top to catch dev you pour in so that when you tilt it sideways it delivers all at once and you get very even dev, for a print... But the neg doesn't stick to the wall well, so the cup won't hold ENOUGH developer... That's the issue, but I have no other tank/tube that will hold enough dev....

Pre-wet the negative :smile:.
 

Dr Croubie

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I was more upset with uneven development.

I only have a Cibichrome print drum that will fit 11x14, the drum has a cup at the top to catch dev you pour in so that when you tilt it sideways it delivers all at once and you get very even dev, for a print... But the neg doesn't stick to the wall well, so the cup won't hold ENOUGH developer... That's the issue, but I have no other tank/tube that will hold enough dev....

Are you using print-paper negatives, or film?
My jobo manual (and the cibachrome tank manual too i think) says not to process film in paper tanks. Mostly it's to do with the anti-halation layer on the back of the film not coming off when the film's hard up against the tank wall, but there might be other problems from it too.
Tried tray developing?

I've nearly finished my first 'suitcase pinhole' camera, just gotta check it for light leaks, then I'll put some 8x10 or so kodalith in it.
I've done 4x5 kodalith in the mod54, rodinal 1+200 for 2 hour stand. Not sure how well that'll translate to trays, might mean I have to twiddle my thumbs in the darkroom for 2 hours...
 

CatLABS

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My jobo manual (and the cibachrome tank manual too i think) says not to process film in paper tanks. Mostly it's to do with the anti-halation layer on the back of the film not coming off when the film's hard up against the tank wall, but there might be other problems from it too.
Actually it has mostly to do with marketing, at least as far as Jobo print drums are concerned.

There is no reason not to process any and all films in Jobo print tanks. In fact we have numerous customers around the world shooting 11X14 and 7X17, using Jobo 3062 and 3063 drums with great success for both color and BW.
 

StoneNYC

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Invitation for "Worldwide Pinhole Photography Day 2014" (WPPD-2014) on Sunday...

Are you using print-paper negatives, or film?
My jobo manual (and the cibachrome tank manual too i think) says not to process film in paper tanks. Mostly it's to do with the anti-halation layer on the back of the film not coming off when the film's hard up against the tank wall, but there might be other problems from it too.
Tried tray developing?

I've nearly finished my first 'suitcase pinhole' camera, just gotta check it for light leaks, then I'll put some 8x10 or so kodalith in it.
I've done 4x5 kodalith in the mod54, rodinal 1+200 for 2 hour stand. Not sure how well that'll translate to trays, might mean I have to twiddle my thumbs in the darkroom for 2 hours...

No darkroom...

Also, I stripped the back later anyway it's X-ray film ... so I wasn't exact worried about the non-existent anti halatipn layer... I agree with catlabs on that, it's marketing.

Did your different cibichrome tanks have different cup sizes??
 

StoneNYC

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Actually it has mostly to do with marketing, at least as far as Jobo print drums are concerned.

There is no reason not to process any and all films in Jobo print tanks. In fact we have numerous customers around the world shooting 11X14 and 7X17, using Jobo 3062 and 3063 drums with great success for both color and BW.

Can you process 8x10 prints in a 6005 tank?
 

StoneNYC

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You must be asking about the 3005 Expert drum - Yes, it is the only available drum dedicated to sheet film processing, for sheets up to 8X10, max 5 sheets at a time.

Yes 3005 but I mean Prints.

I'm asking if you can use print drums and film drums interchangeably...
 

NedL

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I did, I always do...
I think Matt's right. I process a lot of paper negatives and I've been reading the experience of other people processing x-ray film over at F295. It sure sounds similar. With paper negatives the trick is to pre-soak them for a good amount of time, at least 2 minutes, and you must make sure the paper hits the water in a smooth motion, without splashes.

Even after the pre-soak, the first few seconds in the developer is critical. It needs to cover the negative quickly and smoothly and the pre-soak gives you a little more time to do this ( without the soak, it is very difficult to avoid uneven development marks. )

Uneven development can also be trickier to avoid if your developer is dilute or cold. I do that on purpose sometimes, but then I need to be extra careful. I occasionally develop in dektol diluted 1:8 with ice water. The negatives can take 10 minutes to develop, but it can also knock the contrast down so far that you can see clouds in the sky along with shadow details. When I do that I extend the presoak and really make an effort to have it hit the developer all at once.

I process my 11x14 paper negatives in a tray ( plastic for storing paper from the office supply store, with a lid ) and my 8x10 in a plastic pitcher that has a good sealing lid. With both of these it took some practice so learn how to get the developer to roll over the negative smoothly and evenly and quickly.
 

StoneNYC

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I think Matt's right. I process a lot of paper negatives and I've been reading the experience of other people processing x-ray film over at F295. It sure sounds similar. With paper negatives the trick is to pre-soak them for a good amount of time, at least 2 minutes, and you must make sure the paper hits the water in a smooth motion, without splashes.

Even after the pre-soak, the first few seconds in the developer is critical. It needs to cover the negative quickly and smoothly and the pre-soak gives you a little more time to do this ( without the soak, it is very difficult to avoid uneven development marks. )

Uneven development can also be trickier to avoid if your developer is dilute or cold. I do that on purpose sometimes, but then I need to be extra careful. I occasionally develop in dektol diluted 1:8 with ice water. The negatives can take 10 minutes to develop, but it can also knock the contrast down so far that you can see clouds in the sky along with shadow details. When I do that I extend the presoak and really make an effort to have it hit the developer all at once.

I process my 11x14 paper negatives in a tray ( plastic for storing paper from the office supply store, with a lid ) and my 8x10 in a plastic pitcher that has a good sealing lid. With both of these it took some practice so learn how to get the developer to roll over the negative smoothly and evenly and quickly.

I don't have a darkroom so none of this helps, but thanks for taking the time to write it.

I only have these light proof Cibichrome tubes, so I can't SEE what's happening in them and I can't adjust anything, I really think it's a question of not being able to pour enough in, seems the cap only takes 200ml, no more than that will fit...
 

mfohl

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If you make large negatives, you can contact print them. Film or paper negatives. And you may be able to do that without a darkroom if you can get the film/paper into a drum in the dark.
 

mfohl

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Just make sure you're exposure times are in minutes, not seconds, and you won't notice the raindrops in the image ;-)
And bring a can of hot tea with honey as well .....

I was in some nasty weather last year for WPPD: snow/rain mix with wind. But I toughed it out long enough to get two rolls through my Zero Image. I got four images good enough for submission to the website. I only submitted one, of course. I let my wife do the selecting: she was good enough to accompany me while I shot one of the rolls, mostly outdoors.

And even 20 seconds is enough to get rid of the precipitation ...
 

Dr Croubie

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Actually it has mostly to do with marketing, at least as far as Jobo print drums are concerned.

There is no reason not to process any and all films in Jobo print tanks. In fact we have numerous customers around the world shooting 11X14 and 7X17, using Jobo 3062 and 3063 drums with great success for both color and BW.

So I can do larger films in my 2830 and 2840 paper drums? I'll have to try that out now. How do you get rid of the antihalation backing? Can you just wash it off after fixing?
 

CatLABS

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So I can do larger films in my 2830 and 2840 paper drums? I'll have to try that out now. How do you get rid of the antihalation backing? Can you just wash it off after fixing?

Depends on the film. Most modern films (TMAX/DELTA) will get the backing washed out as part of your process in the drum. Other emulsions, might need extra washing outside of the tank, but you might want to do that anyways. The print drums have ribbed insides walls that allow some fluids to reach the back side of the sheet.

I am not sure if we are still in a part of the thread about Xray films, but i cannot comment on those, as i have no experience with Xray material in Jobo tanks.
 

BradS

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It's almost here....WPPD is this Sunday!
 

DWThomas

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It's almost here....WPPD is this Sunday!

Indeed! Naturally, Sunday is also an art club show reception that I'm part of, but if I get all my ducks in a row I should be able to hit some nearby spots in the morning. Between other things this week I believe I've got my process with 8x10 Fuji Super HR-T X-Ray film honed to a point I'll get something, even if not optimum.

Here they are suggesting it will be partly cloudy but no rain -- I can live with that!
 

sly

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Plan to load film holders for the Titan today. Colour film for Holga arrived yesterday. The chocolate lilies have just started blooming, so I'll be heading for my favorite patch.
 

NedL

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Here they are ready for tomorrow:

wppd2014prep.jpg

Left to right:

1. Anamorphic Oatmeal can, 5x7 paper.
2. Hello Kitty popcorn can, 11x14 paper.
3. In the mirror is the "pinholaroid" making this photo, FP100-C.
4. Matboard box camera, 8x10 paper.
5,6,7: coffee can cameras with 5x7 paper.

I hope everyone has fun and will link to their WPPD photos (there was a url link here which no longer exists) too!
 
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