Intro to Color Printing

[nickandre]

I haven't seen the need to calibrate the station. Instead it is the station that is used to identify a color cast on the print and, if one exists, then a quick flick of a viewing filter will indicate the filtration to remove that cast. Once a cast is removed will it reappear under tungsten?

Except for the brightness range of various lighting sources making it easier or harder to see a print, I haven't noticed any difference is prints balanced by a balanced fluorescent bulb regardless of where it was hung.

Once again, you can use your eyes. If you can't see a color cast, there isn't one. That is unless you're color blind in which case color printing may not be for you.

There's a slight variation (very minor) between viewing outside/by window light and by tungsten. Just make sure the print "looks good" under similar conditions to what you will be displaying it.

Ciba filters usually only go down to 5cc which is a problem some of the time, but not others. A dichro enlarger is better. Most color negative printing filters include a 2.5 CC, which is much less of a problem.

 

[Vonder]

Thanks to all who replied. I've taken the plunge, purchased the head, paper, and chems. I went with the Arista 2-bath kit, and Kodak Endura. I hope I can pull this off. My darkroom isn't very warm so I'll probably need to keep the trays in a water bath. I don't know if my bath is big enough for both trays, but as I understand it, the developer is the critical part. I didn't buy a safelight as even Kodak remarks they WILL affect your results. I'll work in as dark as I can get it.

 

[brucemuir]

Don't know about the Arista developer, but I'm using the Ektacolor RA RT stuff down to around 62-64f without a water bath and my preliminary results have been good. I'm using NO developer starter.

This is with the cheap Kodak Edge roll paper.

As long as your chemical/paper combo can handle the reduced temps you won't have problems. RA4 is quite easy.

Regarding safelights. The Edge paper says the same thing, (don't use one and it will effect color balance before fogging is evident) but in my initial printing sessions I have had good results using the color filter setting on a Jobo Maxilux safelight. This is an led safelight that I aim onto a wall between the enlarger and trays.

I know when I used Endura I always did my printing in complete darkness and had access to a tabletop RA4 processor but if you have the correct safelight I'd test it.

 

[apconan]

Just printed my first print the other day, took a couple of hours but turned out nicely. Thanks a lot to Ian C and tiberiustibz for helping me out and taking the time to reply to my PMs offering advice.
To anyone looking to try it, go for it! It is really simple, and the results are very nice.

 

[olleorama]

That is unless you're color blind in which case color printing may not be for you.

I found this hilarious.

 

[Photo Engineer]

Not so funny!

At Kodak, we must all take a rigid test for color blindness and we are not allowed to work on certain phases of product development if we fail in any way. It makes sense to me.

PE

 

[E76]

Not so funny!

At Kodak, we must all take a rigid test for color blindness and we are not allowed to work on certain phases of product development if we fail in any way. It makes sense to me.

PE

Funny story about that. One of my professors used to work at Kodak and developed a set of algorithms for calculating color balance when printing negatives with a certain minilab (IIRC, this was for the Advantix system). As part of the process, they had a guy making prints from the negatives that were supposed to have neutral color balance, but every print he made was way off. It turned out the guy making them was color blind!

 

[Vonder]

For want of a nail...

I Am beginning to think I've made a mistake getting into color printing, even though I haven't (and can't) attempt(ed) my first print yet. Bought the head on eBay, spent a good bit of time cleaning it. Ordered the chemicals and paper, the paper was backordered. Reordered paper, then went to mount the C760 head and discovered there's a required bracket - not included with my auction find - that on Omega's website is, get this, available for just $17.95 - WITH $15 shipping and a $5 "handlling fee". I paid less for the entire head than I would for this stupid bracket! Arrrrgh!

 

[Rick A]

Which bracket do you need--I may have it. Is it the small one? There are two that come with a C-700 Dichro head a large that I think fits the B-22 and a small that I believe fits the C-700 -- I have both, but only need the one to fit a B-22.

Rick

 

[Rick A]

Oh ya-- just pay shipping if you want it.

Rick

 

[Vonder]

Here's what it looks like

Oh ya-- just pay shipping if you want it.

Rick

I think I found a picture of it at B&H and the image is at:

But I don't know which one this might be.

 

[Rick A]

Today is your lucky day -- I have that bracket sitting here in my hot dirty hand. Well, actually, its sitting on my desk.
PM me with your mailing info, and I'll get in the mail to you. We'll discuss the private stuff there.

Rick

 

[Joe Dahlgren]

I am interested in others experiences, as to mixing, and using the Kodak RA RT chemicals and capacities. I haven't printed color in many years, but would like to do so again using the Kodak RT chemicals. I understand the process, just wondering about the dilutions and capacites.

What are the capacities of the Ektacolor RT replenisher?

In trays, do you use a certain amount for so many prints?

Or do you use it one shot in drums? Is it the same for the Bleach fix?

How do you store the mixed chemicals, and how long will they last once mixed up?
Can you mix up small amounts of dev and bleach fix?
Thank you

 

[brucemuir]

I using the Kodak RA-RT in trays and am mixing a litre at a time. If I recall the Developer is three bottles and I have the 5 litre kit so it's fairly easy to divide the total of each bottle by 5. The kit I have has the total fluid ml printed on them. It's simple.

I was just getting started so I was making smaller prints but 1/2 litre at a time in an 8x10 tray lasts most of your printing session. You can get the exact print capacities per litre from the Kodak PDF.

I have a regular indicator stop tray then I mixed up the Blix the same way.

I'm using a pre wet tray also. It;s VERY esy nd I was getting good results down to 62-65f.

 

[hrst]

I use in trays for a certain amount of prints and finally dump. Usually this "certain amount" is so much that I don't even count it as I don't print so much. I mix one liter and dump maybe after 4-5 months, and usually I do only about 20-40 prints during this and I've never had any problems with print quality.

And yes, you can mix small amounts, but it can be a bit tedious because there is no information about how much the bottles contain -- so they are not originally meant for partial mixing. (At least the 5l bottles I'm using!) I had to measure it on the first time and pour back to bottles, but it worked and I see no reason why it shouldn't work (expect for contamination when measuring, be careful).

Mixed chemicals have lasted at least 4 months for me in airtight, squeezed bottles. Longer than BW paper developers, anyway!

 

[brucemuir]

One of the kits I got, I think it was the C41 didn't have the totals printed so yea I did have to measure myself also but the RA-RT I just got from Adorama had the ml on the side so it was an easy calculation.

There's less ingredients/bottles in the RA RT compared to the C41 so that makes it easier also.

I forgot to mention I'm NOT using any starter based on the info I've gotten for room temp here on apug and all seems fine.

 

[perkeleellinen]

How do you store the mixed chemicals, and how long will they last once mixed up?
Can you mix up small amounts of dev and bleach fix?
Thank you

I normally mix up one litre batches. I use a Nova and so far, the chemicals have been good weeks later.

Page two of the data sheet has some helpful information on mixing small amounts:

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j39/j39.pdf