Just some technical detals for those of you not aware of what Baryta is or even what paper is.
Paper can be rag or pulp. It can be hot or cold pressed. It can contain oxidants or reductants which include chlorine or halides and peroxides. It can contain acids or bases and it can contain clays or aluminas and other interesting chemcials which can interact with photochemicals of all types. Some papers contain spreading agents (things that attract overcoats) and other papers have repellant properties (they repel water coatings). Some papers are not even tested for this and therefore vary (as we see it trying to coat on it) from batch to batch unpredictably.
Paper has a 'good' side and a 'bad' side. The good side is smoother than the bad side. The good side can be unsized which means that it is bare paper. This is often hard to coat on. The bad side is rarely sized. The good side is sometimes hard to detect except in strong light.
Sizing can be either gelatin or gum arabic. If gelatin it may be hardened or unhardened. Gum arabic does not harden in the classic sense, but acts more like a resin or glue. Some sizes can be akin to a gesso or acrylic. These are used by some specialty printers for their prints. The aim for a size coat is about 100 mg/dm squared.
Baryta paper is plain paper with barium sulfate in gelatin and glycerine (formulas available if interested). The baryta layer is most often hardened. The baryta acts as a whitening layer and a barrier to prevent undue migration of photochemicals into the paper and paper chemicals from getting into the photosensitve layers. The baryta layer also improves speed due to reflectivity and sharpness due to less chemical migration. It also helps prevent undue yellowing.
The aim for a baryta layer can be as high as 1000 mg/dm sq. This will also contain as much as 1000 mg/dm sq of gelatin binder plus other chemicals. Most rich papers go this high, but most modern papers use far less than this. Tints are often added to baryta papers to 'tone' the photo image.
If you compare todays papers with some old papers, you can see and feel the thickness of the baryta and paper. Modern papers are generally a lot thinner and have less Baryta than older papers, and this gradual thinning is also true of RC papers.
RC papers always have a size coat, as it is impossible to coat on RC unless the size is present. RC paper uses Titanox (Titanium Dioxide) instead of Baryta (Bariums Sulfate). RC paper may use either Rutile or Anatase Titanox, which defines its UV absorption. RC paper may also be tinted. Coating on RC is like coating on film support as all of the chemistry stays in the photosensitive layer or at best some moves into the size layer.
Ink Jet or other digital papers can be similar to the above, but they contain additional mordants (quaternary ammonium salts in the most primitive papers) or other ingredients such as ceramics, to cause immobilization of inks and rapid drying. These chemcials are almost always inimical to photographic processes in some way or another due to their very nature. I have found that each paper must be tested on an individual basis before establishing a use for it in conventional photography.
Bergger COT320 is supposedly a gelatin sized cotton fibre paper. It is one of the best I have ever coated on, but it has no baryta (Some packages state that it contains baryta, but it does not. The label is incorrect.). I guess that the size is hardened, as it acts that way. I have had variations between the 3 samples I have used. Two matched and one was more repellant, indicating some small change in the paper or size. It can be adjusted for with changes to the photo chemical formulation.
It is very important to test a batch before commiting to a large purchase. You may not get exactly what you expect otherwise. You cannot test one batch and accept delivery on another batch expecting exactly the same results. It may not happen.
Even with one batch, storage and age enter into the results as paper changes in moisture content and the size layer hardens and etc. So, beware that changes do happen. As paper ages, it generally becomes harder to coat on as it dries down and hardens.
This may be what I observe in my samples of COT320.
In any event, there are a lot of people out there working on getting good Baryta and RC papers for making high end photographic coatings. As their efforts bear fruit, you will see these become available at suppliers of this type of material. I am aware of several such efforts at the present time.
PE