Instructions for using a print drum

[pschauss]

From reading this list and others, I have a general idea of how to use a print drum, but I have never seen step by step instructions. In particular I would like to know:

- How much chemistry do you use?
- Do you use the same time for each step as you would for the corresponding step with trays or a slot processor?
- Do you need to rinse the drum between processing steps?
- How do you roll the drum?

Thanks,

Peter Schauss

 

[jp80874]

Peter,

What brand and model number are you asking about?
I use Jobo drums on a Jobo CPP-2 processor.
Their web site has pages of instructions. http://www.jobousadarkroom.com/support.htm#Instruction Manuals

If you mean another brand, please ask by name and possibly someone else can assist.

Good Luck.

John Powers

 

[pschauss]

Peter,

What brand and model number are you asking about?
I use Jobo drums on a Jobo CPP-2 processor.
Their web site has pages of instructions. http://www.jobousadarkroom.com/support.htm#Instruction Manuals

If you mean another brand, please ask by name and possibly someone else can assist.

Good Luck.

John Powers

Jobo 2840

 

[pschauss]

I should also add that I would be using a drum for large black and white prints.

Since I have limited darkroom space and, usually, limited time slots to work, I find that using trays for 11x14 and larger is inconvenient. I use a slot processor for everything up to 8x10, but a larger slot processor is hard to cost justify for amount of work I do.

Is it practical to use a print drum without the CPP or CPA processor?

Thanks,

 

[John_Brewer]

Peter, send me an e-mail and I'll send you a pdf of the Jobo CPE2 manual I made from the website.

John.

 

[Dave Miller]

Peter, Yes, it is perfectly practical to use a Jobo 2840 for processing black and white as well as colour prints. I produce all my 16 x x12 prints, both R/C and Fibre, in them using a powered roller base on which to rotate them. Manual bases are available, or you can roll the drum back and forth across a bench, but this gets tedious. The chemical quantities required are detailed on the label, from memory 120ml is required, and this volume applies to each chemical in the process. The chemicals are reusable if you top up the developer with about 10 to 15ml per print, and change the stop and fixer by the same amount, much as you would top up a slot processor. I discard the used chemicals at the end of each session. I use the processing times as recommended by the paper manufacturer for slot or tray processing, and I do use a 15 second water rinse between each stage, although this probably is not strictly necessary.

 

[Nick Zentena]

The 2840 is I think 100ml but it should be written on the thing.

Same times.

I do the intial wash in the tank that gets it pretty clean. I then give it a quick rinse. The more important thing is to dry it with a paper towel.

I roll it on a Unicolor motorbase plugged into a Gralab 300.

 

[Denis P.]

I've recently got a Jobo 2840, and tried it with 4 sheets of 5x7 film on a Jobo CPE2. One of the sheets came out unusable - it was practically "glued" to the drum wall, and the antihalation, etc., did not wash out. The negative had large greyish dirty spots where the sheet was in the contact with the drum wall. I guess I'll try to make custom "film holder sheets", with dimples, to avoid such problems in the future. However, the other 3 sheets were quite OK.
Still, just to be on the safe side, I'll use custom film holder sheets in the future - I've already described the stuff in one of my earlier postings - here:
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Denis