Industar-22 Lens

[thuggins]

I just picked up a Zorki C with the Industar-22 lens. The camera looks great and seems to work properly, not a bad deal considering that the price was less than the shipping from Russia. I managed to search around the web and get it all figured out, but I'm left with one issue (or more of an annoyance).

There is a piece of felt sticking out next to the lens. I assume it is part of the light seal. I've tried pushing it back in place, but it keeps popping back out. It looks like it may be a bit that overlaps at the end.

I'm very tempted to just snip it off. Has anyone seen this problem before with these lenses?

 

[AgX]

It is the light seal..
Even modern autofocus-compacts with retractable lenses showed failure of such seals.

I would disassemble the shebang far enough to fix that piece of velvet again at the static part.

 

[thuggins]

Snipping it off worked quite well. After running two rolls thru it, the shutter speeds are right on and the quality of the glass is very impressive. It is tack sharp at small apertures but does get noticeably softer when opened up. That is high praise coming from someone whose standard of comparison is Zuiko.

I constantly remind myself to make sure it is wound before changing the shutter speed. It's a bit of a challenge to remember, considering that's the opposite of the general practice for pretty much every other camera in the world. How bad is it if you forget once? Do the speeds instantly go to hell? Or is it just something you want to avoid doing all the time?

 

[Ko.Fe.]

Simply have a look at speed dial then shutter is not advanced. It has to be set from A to B. But then shutter is not advanced here is no A. We are changing shutter speed from one to another one.

I disassembled I-22 for cleaning, but I can't remember such thing. Those lenses are easy to disassemble and get back as one piece.

https://rangefinder.ru/club/viewtopic.php?t=15294

 

[thuggins]

Thanks for the link. My Russian is a bit rusty, but the pictures look pretty clear.

Not quite sure what this comment means, though.

Simply have a look at speed dial then shutter is not advanced. It has to be set from A to B. But then shutter is not advanced here is no A. We are changing shutter speed from one to another one.

The shutter speeds are engraved in the speed dial; they are always visible and in the same relation to each other. The only thing that happens when you wind the film is that the entire shutter speed dial turns (which is kinda weird, in its own right).

 

[Ko.Fe.]

Thanks for the link. My Russian is a bit rusty, but the pictures look pretty clear.

Not quite sure what this comment means, though.



The shutter speeds are engraved in the speed dial; they are always visible and in the same relation to each other. The only thing that happens when you wind the film is that the entire shutter speed dial turns (which is kinda weird, in its own right).

Look again. On uncocked shutter you can't tell which shutter speed is selected. Only after shutter is cocked. Look not just at speed dials, but at the mark which is left from it.
Why to change speed if you don't know which one is selected? This is why almost nobody change shutter speed on these cameras before advancing the shutter.

 

[thuggins]

Look again. On uncocked shutter you can't tell which shutter speed is selected. Only after shutter is cocked. Look not just at speed dials, but at the mark which is left from it.
Why to change speed if you don't know which one is selected? This is why almost nobody change shutter speed on these cameras before advancing the shutter.

I don't know what you are thinking of, but it is definitely not this camera. The speed selection is always visible. It would be very easy to change the shutter speed at any time, which is why it is so very odd that such a simple and common action could cause damage to a camera.

 

[McFortner]

The problem is that with the Leica LTM cameras and their clones/derivatives there is a pin on the speed selector shaft that can be broken if you change the speed before winding the mechanism, making it impossible to change the speed again without a repair, which can be expensive. It's better to get into the habit of not changing speed until you've wound the camera for the next shot. On a side not, don't wind those before you are ready to shoot the next frame. If you leave it wound and put it up for a while, you put too much tension on the mechanism and it can slow down the shutter speeds if not damage it outright, also requiring a repair. All of my LTM cameras (Leica, Japanese, and FSU) that are in between rolls and sitting on display are left unwound for that reason.

 

[AgX]

On a side not, don't wind those before you are ready to shoot the next frame. If you leave it wound and put it up for a while, you put too much tension on the mechanism and it can slow down the shutter speeds if not damage it outright, also requiring a repair.

I read that all the time on camera related sites, but at the spring manufacturers I read the contrary.

 

[E. von Hoegh]

I don't know what you are thinking of, but it is definitely not this camera. The speed selection is always visible. It would be very easy to change the shutter speed at any time, which is why it is so very odd that such a simple and common action could cause damage to a camera.

View attachment 211615

Ko Fe is referring to the index agains which you set the shutter speed.
Wind the shutter, the selected speed will be next to the index. Right?. Trip the shutter, leave it unwound, and where is the speed you selected? Edit I just had a second look at my Zorki C, the index is on the central part relative to which the speed dial is set. This usually means you can set the speed at any time, but then it's an FSU camera...
Having leicas and leica clones I got in the habit of "advance, then set" for any screwmount rf camera.
For electronic flash set the synch ring at "0" advance.
It might be a good idea to replace the felt/vevet dust seal on the lens, it will keep dust out of the camera (pumping action whenever you collapse or extend the lens)
These cameras are great fun & the Industar is a very nice lens - most f:3.5 Tessars are a tad soft wide open, including the Zeiss on my Rollei Automat.

 

[E. von Hoegh]

I read that all the time on camera related sites, but at the spring manufacturers I read the contrary.

Be sure to keep your car off it's wheels to save the suspension springs, and the engine running at all times so the valve springs don't take a set.
(Sarcasm off) Nikon, in the instructions for the F2, recommend leaving the shutter cocked no longer than "overnight".
Better safe than sorry? I always leave my cameras & shutters uncocked; I do not cock or wind on until I know I will take a picture. Some of my stuff is well over 100 years of age & I dont like to strain aything without reason.

 

[thuggins]

Thanks for the details. I have gotten in the habit of always trying to turn the film advance knob before changing shutter speeds. It just does seem odd.

I read that all the time on camera related sites, but at the spring manufacturers I read the contrary.

As long as you are within the linear part of the force/displacement curve, a stretched (or compressed) spring should not take a set. This is spring theory 101. That being said, I never allow a camera to sit with a cocked shutter.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

OK. I get it now. Zorki-C has different from Zorki shutter speed dial.

From original Zorki-C instruction - Установку затвора на выдержку можно производить и до взвода механизма затвора, только необходимо помнить, что диск выдержек 7 в интервале В — 500 поворачивать нельзя.
page 24. - it is allowed to adjust shutter speed before shutter advance, but keep in mind, it is not allowed to move shutter speed disk between B-500. (With advanced shutter as well).

https://rangefinder.ru/download/manuals/Zorki-C.pdf

Normally you can't move between 5 and 1/500 in FSU cameras, but some will allow it and it is the defect.