In praise of the Mamiya C System TLRs

[grat]

[....] I really miss the smaller size, lighter weight, and quiet operation of my old Mamiya TLR cameras.

That's a truly terrifying statement, you know? "smaller", "lighter" and "quiet" are not words I associate with my C33.

 

[Luckless]

That's a truly terrifying statement, you know? "smaller", "lighter" and "quiet" are not words I associate with my C33.

Good point. What is actually bigger, and heavier, and louder than a C Series TLR?

My C330f is smaller and lighter than my Pressman, but I don't think I can call it quieter.

 

[pbromaghin]

During Covid, I have been learning/playing with macrophotography and have found the C33 much better suited to it than the C220. The on-screen Parallax and bellows extension indicator, not available on the C220, is a big help with exposure adjustment, although I do have a paramender. Filling the whole focusing screen with a single flower for the first time is really cool. The 80mm can get within inches, but the 135mm can't really get closer than a couple feet before you run out of bellows.

Also, the previous C33 owner removed the automatic cocking mechanism and when I bought a second C33, it was so annoying that I removed it.

 

[Luckless]

Also, the previous C33 owner removed the automatic cocking mechanism and when I bought a second C33, it was so annoying that I removed it.

That's an interesting point from a design/usability perspective. I'm curious why you found it annoying.

I'm considering removing it from my spare C330, but only because I've not yet added a C220 or similar model without the auto-cocking to use with a few older model lenses that wandered into my collection that don't work with it.

 

[markjwyatt]

That's an interesting point from a design/usability perspective. I'm curious why you found it annoying.

I'm considering removing it from my spare C330, but only because I've not yet added a C220 or similar model without the auto-cocking to use with a few older model lenses that wandered into my collection that don't work with it.

Not sure if it is directly related, but I find the side shutter release, which is I think is activated through this mechanism, becomes sensitive and sometimes I lose a frame. It freezes, and once that happens all you can do is advance to the next frame.

 

[Grim Tuesday]

Not sure if it is directly related, but I find the side shutter release, which is I think is activated through this mechanism, becomes sensitive and sometimes I lose a frame. It freezes, and once that happens all you can do is advance to the next frame.

Can't you just activate the shutter directly on the lens if there is an issue with the double exposure protection?

 

[narsuitus]

Good point. What is actually bigger, and heavier, and louder than a C Series TLR?

Mamiya RB67


Built like a ... by Narsuitus, on Flickr

 

[pbromaghin]

Not sure if it is directly related, but I find the side shutter release, which is I think is activated through this mechanism, becomes sensitive and sometimes I lose a frame. It freezes, and once that happens all you can do is advance to the next frame.

This sensitivity is how my C20 is. I don't know if it is C220 in general, or just my example. I found a workaround - put the lens cap on, switch to multi-exposure mode, release the shutter and switch back to single mode. You can then just cock and shoot normally without losing the frame. It took a lot of frustration and several lost frames to figure this out.

 

[pbromaghin]

That's an interesting point from a design/usability perspective. I'm curious why you found it annoying.

I'm considering removing it from my spare C330, but only because I've not yet added a C220 or similar model without the auto-cocking to use with a few older model lenses that wandered into my collection that don't work with it.

It just provided too much resistance while advancing the film. It also confused my poor brain going from one to the other.

 

[markjwyatt]

Can't you just activate the shutter directly on the lens if there is an issue with the double exposure protection?

Yes, that I think that is the way out. I think the last time it happened to me (2018), I was kind of flustered (literally first use of the camera in more than 10 years), and I did trip the shutter, but that created a double exposure if I recall. To the pbromaghin's point, I could have put the lens shade on (maybe I did? Need to go dig out the negs). If it happens often, it would be a pain ( I am preparing to use it again soon, so hopefully will be better prepared to just reach around and trip the shutter release on the lens). It has happened in the past, but I do not recall it being frequent. Often when using new (meaning new to me, often very old) cameras or even old ones after many years I have to go through (or re-go through) a learning curve to use it efficiently.

 

[markjwyatt]

This sensitivity is how my C20 is. I don't know if it is C220 in general, or just my example. I found a workaround - put the lens cap on, switch to multi-exposure mode, release the shutter and switch back to single mode. You can then just cock and shoot normally without losing the frame. It took a lot of frustration and several lost frames to figure this out.

That is good too. The lens cap protects the frame. As I eluded above, I need to get back in the proper habit of using my TLRs.

 

[mrosenlof]

my Mamiya TLRs always have the multi-exposure control set to multi. There is a sensitivity to a slight push on the body shutter release that if you back off, it locks the shutter release on the body even though the shutter itself did not fire.

 

[Neil Grant]

my Mamiya TLRs always have the multi-exposure control set to multi. There is a sensitivity to a slight push on the body shutter release that if you back off, it locks the shutter release on the body even though the shutter itself did not fire.

...yes that's right, it locks-up without taking a photo. But don't you risk a double exposure when set to 'multi'? or a blank frame ? If i get 12 frames on 120 I'm doing 'well'! This 'lock-up' business seems unique to the C TLR.

 

[guangong]

I bought my Rolleiflex in very early 1970s and never wanted another TLR. But the happy folks on this theadncontent with their Mamiya TLRs just proves the point...there is no “best” camera. The best camera is the one you like to use, not what somebody else prefers.
Luckily, at least for the time being, I have overcome GAS addiction!

 

[mrosenlof]

...yes that's right, it locks-up without taking a photo. But don't you risk a double exposure when set to 'multi'? or a blank frame ? If i get 12 frames on 120 I'm doing 'well'! This 'lock-up' business seems unique to the C TLR.

I always advance the film immediately after exposure, that's almost reflex action for me. I have both C330f and C220f bodies. If the latter, I'll then cock the shutter (probably!). The only time I've gotten blanks or double exposed frames is if I change lenses and the state (cocked or not) of the new lens is different from the old.

Your other option if hit by the lock is to use your right thumb to trip the shutter release arm directly.

 

[Grim Tuesday]

I bought my Rolleiflex in very early 1970s and never wanted another TLR. But the happy folks on this theadncontent with their Mamiya TLRs just proves the point...there is no “best” camera. The best camera is the one you like to use, not what somebody else prefers.
Luckily, at least for the time being, I have overcome GAS addiction!

A rolleiflex is a fantastic camera, I have one as well as my Mamiya. Compared, it has many similar benefits: quiet operation, small size, no mirror movement, etc... It even has several advantages over the Mamiya system: smaller and lighter, better optics, automatic film loading but all those features come with additional complexity and failure points. And of course, no interchangeable lenses and they are rather expensive compared to Mamiya TLRs.

 

[grat]

Haven't had a lock up problem yet on the C33. I've only run about half a dozen rolls through so far, but it's been rock solid. Only time I've had a problem is if the camera thinks the shutter is cocked when I put in a new lens (or if the lens is cocked and the camera isn't).

And just to stir the pot, I've seen shots from the Rolleiflex 80mm f/2.8 compared with the C330 f/2.8, and in general, I preferred the look of the C330 shots.

But Ye Gods it's smaller and lighter. Soooo much smaller and lighter. I think the C33 might be the heaviest of the C series. Or maybe mine has lead weights in it.

 

[markjwyatt]

I had my last problem with the C330F when I changed lenses. When I used the camera all the time, I did not have problems, so I suspect I intuitively knew how to deal with it.

They are heavy. I realized that at some point and was less enthusiastic about carrying it all the time. That is what 35mm cameras are for (especially rangefinders), or a digital. An iPhone works in a pinch, but is not satisfying. Old school I guess.

 

[lenshood]

The c3 was the first medium format camera I ever used and it remains my favorite. I find there’s something useful about its weight & solidity - I find it easier to keep still with long handheld exposures.

 

[bluechromis]

Good point. What is actually bigger, and heavier, and louder than a C Series TLR?

My C330f is smaller and lighter than my Pressman, but I don't think I can call it quieter.

My Pentax 67 is bigger, heavier and louder that C330. My Speed Graphic is bigger and the focal plan shutter is louder.

 

[bluechromis]

I love my C330 f. When shooting handheld I use the side handle grip. It makes all the difference in ease of use and provides a handy place to attach accessories like speed light. With the side grip I can shoot very fast when covering dynamic scenes. The DS 105 lens uses a five element Heliar design. Although not that many lenses have that design, many that did such a Voightlander large format, Bessa folder, Kodak Medalist are in high demand. The Heliar affords a very smooth transition between in the in-focus and out-of-focus areas. I think the 80 mm f/2.8 and DS 105 are on a short list of medium format lenses with best bokeh. Relatively few TLR's have a lens as fast as f/2.8 like the Sekor 80 mm does. The wide aperture helps make viewfinder brighter.

 

[TimH]

Thank you for reminding me how awesome the Mamiya TLR’s are Grimm! I have neglected my C330 for the past few years, especially after I got a Pentax 67 in 2017. Compared to the P67, the C330 is fine without a heavy tripod, quiet enough for street photography and a lot easier to carry around.
However, mine seems to have some kind of alignment issue, which causes blurriness on the left hand side of the negatives. This doesn’t show up on every exposure though. I’m not sure what’s the cause. Anyone else experienced this issue?

 

[grat]

I would check the 120/220 plate in the back to make sure a spring hasn't given out. What you're describing sounds like a lack of flatness in the negative sometimes, so the film path should be examined closely.

 

[MattKing]

Also check that the lens pair is properly mounted in place and hasn't been subject to a damaging impact.

 

[Neil Grant]

I love my C330 f. When shooting handheld I use the side handle grip. It makes all the difference in ease of use and provides a handy place to attach accessories like speed light.....Relatively few TLR's have a lens as fast as f/2.8 like the Sekor 80 mm does. The wide aperture helps make viewfinder brighter.

...the 330s has the brightest, clearest and easiest to focus screen of all the C- series TLR's by a considerable margin. Maybe the best focusing screen of any reflex camera. A huge surprise on such an old piece of kit.