A small amount of inaccuracy (for example, 1/70 sec instead of 1/60 sec) is usually not a big deal, and the difference is hardly ever noticeable. At least not for negative film. If you're dealing with a 40% or more discrepancy, it is high time for a shutter CLA to get it back to where it should be. From my experience, it has mostly been the slower shutter speeds which are prone to inconsistencies, not so much the faster speeds.A battery controlled shutter is more accurate than a purely mechanical one. Older clockwork shutters were notoriously bad with fast shutter speeds often by 40% or more. Some cameras provided a default shutter speed usually 1/125 s for when the battery failed.
A simple electrically controlled shutter, such as the one in Pentax 6x7, is quite reliable and straightforward piece of equipment. It's easy to overhaul and calibrate. The electronic circuit consists of a handful of components. If I remember correctly, there's a grand total of five transistors in there. Given the way the circuit works, their specifications are not very critical, so you can use many different off-the-shelf types as replacements without any effect to the operation of the circuit.
I had a wind-up radio but my arm kept getting tired so I got rid of it.The inverse snobbery buffs and Luddites have reared their ugly heads again, for Pete's sake it's the 21st century the whole World runs on electronics. Do you guys have clockwork smartphones computers and T.V's ?
Theo Sulphate, you use an RB67 for street photography!?! ...
While definitely not clockwork, my Sekonic L-398a is battery free, and accurate. ...
I think mechanical camera reliability is a bit overrated.
Some electronic circuits in camera are even more reliable. For example I have never found a Canon AE-1 with bad timing circuits. Or a Nikon F3 with bad timing circuits. Or a Yashica Electro 35.
I think mechanical camera reliability is a bit overrated.
Some electronic circuits in camera are even more reliable. For example I have never found a Canon AE-1 with bad timing circuits. Or a Nikon F3 with bad timing circuits. Or a Yashica Electro 35.
While on the used market practically 9 out of 10 mechanical cameras I find will need CLA to the clockwork mechanism to work well.
I also think battery-dependence has been overblown. Some of the electronic cameras (again the AE1 as an example, or the Nikon FE) will happily work for a full 1 year with the same battery.
Agree with below:
But if you have two mechanical cameras you'll never know which one has the accurate shutter speeds!You know where you are with clockwork.
But if you have two mechanical cameras you'll never know which one has the accurate shutter speeds!
Are batteries in cameras really necessary? when clockwork mechanisms will do the job.
But if you have two mechanical cameras you'll never know which one has the accurate shutter speeds!
But if you have two mechanical cameras you'll never know which one has the accurate shutter speeds!
Cool camera. Can you still get film for that?
EXACTLY!You can put it on a very good shutter tester and find out. If you can't test them then if you have 2 electronic cameras you wouldn't know which one is accurate either.
But if you have two mechanical cameras you'll never know which one has the accurate shutter speeds!
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