Donald Qualls
Subscriber
Film is surprisingly resilient to faint ambient diffuse light.
But not so much to "bright enough to read well" light and multi-second exposure...
Film is surprisingly resilient to faint ambient diffuse light.
Haven't done that yet, but I did recently load a roll of 120 with the emulsion toward the pressure plate.
Those were the best photos I never took...
I've been using EDU Ultra 100/400 in 120 for years and mine have always had the peel and stick tape.
BTDT with a Calumet 6x7 roll back. Can't guarentee it wasn't twice....It seems like a lot of people do that one time with a film back exactly once.![]()
I remembered to check this when I'm home. Neither the roll of Ultra 100 that unrolled on me here, nor the previous roll of backing paper in my darkroom trash bag (from a roll of Ultra 400, since it's one of the three in my Paterson tank waiting for me to get new EcoPro developer mixed) have peel and stick. On both, I can see the ineffectual gum. The 100 I have on the shelf (pretty sure it's the same order, likely from B&H due to their free shipping for $50 orders) has expiration 05 2022, while the 400 on the shelf is 02 2023. It doesn't get much fresher than the latter, and short of opening and unwinding a roll of that, I'm as sure as I can be that what I have does not have a peel-and-stick end band.
Do digital shooters have stories like this?
They drop the SD card and lose the content, forget (heavy-) spare batteries and have to haul a dead camera, change lenses at the (sandy-) beach and mismanage a sensor sweep, run out of RAM and have to (re-) invest in more, the external storage discs are getting overloaded, the printer heads have clogged up and the ink cassettes ran empty, and after 5 years their camera/computer has become completely outdated and it all starts over again, just to name a few...
Do you understand now why I stick whit my still alive and kicking 1980 Hasselblad, 1954 Tri-X/120 and 1954 Omega D3, and, do believe me, I am far of being reactionary nor a tory!
I set everything up to develop a sheet of 4x5 film -- very optimistic until I opened the film holder to find it empty....
More recently I mislaid an exposed film that had some shots I was very optimistic about. I found it eventually, superimposed with another 36 shots I was very optimistic about.
That's why I shake the film holder to hear the sheet moving a little up and down, before sliding it in the camera...I set everything up to develop a sheet of 4x5 film -- very optimistic until I opened the film holder to find it empty.
Yeah -- it was early in my use of LF. Actually, especially with larger than 4x5, I thud the holder on the heel of my palm to make sure the film is not cock-eyed in the holder before loading it in the camera. I have had too many sheets of film start off crooked, then slip straight in the holder during a long exposure.That's why I shake the film holder to hear the sheet moving a little up and down, before sliding it in the camera...
I set everything up to develop a sheet of 4x5 film -- very optimistic until I opened the film holder to find it empty.
In 40 years of LF use, I have made most of the mistakes, sometimes repeating them for good measure. Including loading up the 3005 Jobo drum with five 8x10 with potentially wonderful latent images of my boys in the redwoods, knocking the last film holder to the floor, finding it in the dark, get everything set, turn on the lights and think "The drum sure looks weird."Whereas if you'd been sure the tape with notes on the holder was outdated and it was empty, and opened it in the light to dust before going dark to load, you've have found the exposed sheet that matched the notes...
I have more than once tried taking a picture with film loaded and lens cap on my rangefinder cameras. I try to do a quick look around the front of rangefinder cameras but sometimes forget!
That's why I shake the film holder to hear the sheet moving a little up and down, before sliding it in the camera...
I have more than once tried taking a picture with film loaded and lens cap on my rangefinder cameras. I try to do a quick look around the front of rangefinder cameras but sometimes forget!
Will that help keep the sheet of film in place? Keep it from falling out into the camera?
I don't like lens caps as I always manage to drop them on places were there is a lot of dirt or they roll away where I can't find them.That is why I put bright yellow gaffer's tape on the edge of my lens caps and lens hoods of range finder cameras and the SWC.
If one does not hear the film rattling freely in the holder, it is 1) empty, or 2) mis-loaded (and the sheet might fall into the camera). It helps to take a minute to learn what "rattling freely" should sound like (and feel like in the hand). Better yet...to keep good notes and/or have a solid system to keep track of all this. I find that easier during trips and multi-day projects. Around my home/studio I tend to lose track of my holders (4x5 to 11x14) over time.Will that help keep the sheet of film in place? Keep it from falling out into the camera?
I have more than once tried taking a picture with film loaded and lens cap on my rangefinder cameras. I try to do a quick look around the front of rangefinder cameras but sometimes forget!
I don't like lens caps as I always manege to drop them on places were there is a lot of dirt or they roll away where I can't find them.
They drop the SD card and lose the content, forget (heavy-) spare batteries and have to haul a dead camera, change lenses at the (sandy-) beach and mismanage a sensor sweep, run out of RAM and have to (re-) invest in more, the external storage discs are getting overloaded, the printer heads have clogged up and the ink cassettes ran empty, and after 5 years their camera/computer has become completely outdated and it all starts over again, just to name a few...
Do you understand now why I stick whit my still alive and kicking 1980 Hasselblad, 1954 Tri-X/120 and 1954 Omega D3, and, do believe me, I am far of being reactionary nor a tory!
Anything that can go wrong, will-- whether you're shooting analog, digital, or light-field holograms. We put in place processes to minimize those risks, but as Donald points out, even the best of us are sometimes overwhelmed by circumstance. Most of your examples for why not digital, are inconveniences, rather than leading to lost images. You forgot filesystem corruption, viruses, and electrical surges-- but again, most of those can also be mitigated by good practice.
I could make a similar list of arguments against analog photography, but cap it off with the fact that every single manufacturer of film could go out of business tomorrow, and my 14 year old EOS 30D will still take beautiful photos.
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links. To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here. |
PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY: ![]() |