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Ilford XP1 400 info...

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I got a roll of expired Ilford XP1 400 off evilbay a while ago (been in my freezer since I got it), and looking for more info on it.

The main question I haveis has anybody seen a roll of XP1 with an orange label like in the photos? Everywhere Ive looked online, all the 35mm rolls (even from the 80's) have a white label with black & red lettering (similiar to the XP2 Super).
 

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That was repackaged by Freestyle back in the 1980's. Freestyle sold repackaged bulk film from Ilford back then.
(It says "repackaged by FSC" on the label).
I personally shot a lot of their repackaged Pan F 35mm movie film back then...no edge lettering, and cinema perfs.
 
Ahhh ok, I thought thats what FSC meant, especially it having LA, CA on it but I wasnt 100% sure about it. Thanks

This is one of those "oh yeah, duh!" moments
 
Let me know how it goes. I ended up with some xp1 in 8x10. I'm not sure it's worth my time to load any film holders with it since I would have to invest in a c-41 kit or ship it out for processing.
 
XP2 can be processed in B/W chemistry.
Not sure about XP1.
Want to send me a few 8x10 sheets? I'll test it out.
 
Got surprisingly good results from a roll of XP1 I developed in B&W chemistry recently. Basically no fog after having been stored at room temp for 35 years.
The anti halation dye was super stubborn though.
 
I have a 100ft reel of Ilford XP2 (not Super) - Expiry date 1993. The first version is probably really from the 80s.
 
I've got a shopping bag full of exposed XP1 dating from around 1990. Stored most of that time in the back of a cupboard. Had a brainwave recently and sent a few off to lab for C41 processing, but that seems to have been a total failure. When I had my own darkroom, I used to process this stuff with D76, and I see that Helge says the same. I'm now thinking maybe I should do that with the rest of the bagfull. D76 or HC110? or A-nother? Times? I expect maybe 2x - 3x normal time. Any advice would be usefull.
 
PLM said:
D76 or HC110? or A-nother? Times? I expect maybe 2x - 3x normal time.
Click to expand...

HC110 will result in somewhat lower fog. There's pretty much no reason to extend development time - maybe a 15% if you think the film was closer to underexposure than overexposure. Any extended development will develop the base fog level higher. Since you have more than one roll, you get to adjust your development based on results.
 

So, essentially normal or a bit longer, even with such old film. I wonder if there is realistically any hope of getting an image after this length of time?
 
A few years ago, I developed TriX that was exposed in the 1950s. Whether or not there will be an image depends on how well the latent image survives on the emulsion. If it's gone, it's gone.

When you newly expose old film, it's lost some of its sensitivity and may need more exposure and/or more development. But your film was exposed fresh. Any loss of sensitivity has no impact. Increased fog is the main concern.
 

Thanks. Did you get an image from that old TriX?
 
PLM said:
Did you get an image from that old TriX?
Click to expand...

I did. It was a film pack that was half-used. A couple of the pictures were underexposed. There were some home portraits. Below is a phone photo of a print - the main emulsion damage came from the paper in the film pack.

 
Good stuff. Gives me hope of salvaging images from a couple dozen exposed 4x5 & 8x10 sheets of Plus X that have been hiding in the back of a file cabinet for many, many years. No space or time to rebuild my darkroom until recently.
 
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PlusX holds up very well - much better than TriX, which gains a very high level of fog over a couple of decades. You're very likely to get something out of those sheets.
 
Don_ih said:
PlusX holds up very well - much better than TriX, which gains a very high level of fog over a couple of decades. You're very likely to get something out of those sheets.
Click to expand...

I shot some 35mm Plus-X, that expired in 1958, and it turned-out fine. Hopefully, the Panatomic-X I asked about in this thread turns-out just as well.
 
Helge said:
Got surprisingly good results from a roll of XP1 I developed in B&W chemistry recently. Basically no fog after having been stored at room temp for 35 years.
The anti halation dye was super stubborn though.
Click to expand...

How did you deal with the anti-halation dye? I have just run 2 rolls through D76 for 20 minutes and they look completely black. Don't see anything when I shine a light through them. May be anti- halation? Or completely degraded? Will try doing stand devo with Rodinol later
 
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I've been doing some testing with very old, poorly stored XP1 400. Sent some out for C41 processing, blank result. Decided to do some kitchen sink processing to reproduce how I used to dunk the stuff at home with standard B&W chemistry. So, D76 for 15 minutes, also blank. Today, Rodinal 1:100, 60 minute stand. Something is appearing as shown. Very thin neg, and can make out the frame rectangles. Next try, probably Rodinal 1:50 for 2 hours.
 

Rodinal 1:50 4+ hours stand processing. NG. Fogged. May back off to Rodinal 1:100 again, 2 hour stand. Or try HC110 dilution E, 24 minutes.
 
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