Ilford Pan F and Rodinal

[JS MD]

D 76 d even 1:1 better than R-09

 

[Gerald C Koch]

If you are interested in mixing your own you might try Kodak D-23 diluted 1:1. This is a soft working developer and will help tame Pan-F's contrast. With only 2 ingredients it is easy to mix and very economical.

 

[kq6up]

If you are interested in mixing your own you might try Kodak D-23 diluted 1:1. This is a soft working developer and will help tame Pan-F's contrast. With only 2 ingredients it is easy to mix and very economical.

So many things to try. I will have to buy a bulk roll so that I can try little snips of this and that idea so that I can report back what is best. That is what is awesome about bulk rolls. I can load 12 or less if I want.

I am not afraid of a "roll your own" developer. I am a chemistry teacher ;o)

Regards,
Chris Maness

 

[hpulley]

$45 for 100', PanF+ isn't bad to bulk load at all. For some reason some quite expired rolls are going for almost that much on eBay when you can buy fresh for just a few bucks more... makes no sense to me!

 

[kq6up]

Ok, I processed a roll of Pan F+ in D-76 in 1+0 for a control to compare it to the Rodinal.

The results were much better than my first Rodinal test. The grain was smaller and smoother, but a VERY short usable tonal range. I had let my son shoot many of the frames on this roll, and there is a muddy look to even slightly over exposed frames. This stuff is as touchy as slide film.

After doing much research on the combination (and Rodinal in general). I have found that grain is a function of agitation. However, reducing agitation extends developing time. I would like to reduce my agitation to one inversion every other minute. How long would I soup the film for to get full usable density from the film (without highlights blocking up) with this agitation scheme? I also plan on bracketing EI 25/32/50 for my shots to see what EI rating places my shot on the flat part of the HD curve.

Thanks guys,
Chris Maness

 

[kq6up]

How about:

15 minutes in 1+50 20C, w/ a very conservative gentle agitation of 10 initial inversions for the first 30s w/ three taps for bubbles, and 2 gentle inversions every other minute w/ one solid tap for bubbles. I used someones else's increase in time for compensating for this agitation scheme, and applied it to this dev/film combo.

I don't think I over developed the first time, but I did not like my first try with Pan F w/ Rodinal. The grain was not too big, but it was not to my liking at all. The tones were not real clean on most of the shots too. It just looked ugly.

I really like Fomapan 100 and Rodinal, I am trying to match the look with higher resolution than the Fomapan can offer. It is a beautiful film, but I am not sure I can make huge prints from it with a 35mm neg. I have read that Pan F can match the resolution of Delta 100 if done right. Delta 100 looks really good in D-76, and I might end up going with that combo for my motorcycle trip shots.

Thanks,
Chris Maness

 

[marcmarc]

I've been using Pan F+ and Rodinal for years. It can yield some amazing results but it does take some trial and error. Put in the time and effort and one day you will be glad you did. The advice to leave some space between the fluid and the lid of the tank is the best advice I ever got. Nobody ever told me this until I posted some examples of prints with built up edge density. I used to fill the tank to the brim and agitate very slowly. Now I use 400 ml in a 16oz tank and have increased my agitation. Stunning negs like I never thought possible before.

 

[debanddg]

Chris,

I tried PanF+ [35 mm] with 1:50 Rodinal @ 20 degrees Celsius recently. Total development time was 13 minutes. After initial gentle agitation of 30 sec + tapping, I resorted to 3 gentle inversions + tapping every 2.5 minutes. This was with 500 ml of fluid in a Paterson 3 reel tank - so there was plenty of air left for the fluid to move. I did see grains all over the place when I inspect with a loupe and my scanner [Nikon Coolscan] threw up an awful lot of them but on the whole I think it's manageable. Need to try with some shorter development time as well for the next roll. Some examples are here -> http://www.flickr.com/photos/a_peek_in_my_world/tags/surajkund/ .. all shot at box speed.

 

[kq6up]

Chris,

I tried PanF+ [35 mm] with 1:50 Rodinal @ 20 degrees Celsius recently. Total development time was 13 minutes. After initial gentle agitation of 30 sec + tapping, I resorted to 3 gentle inversions + tapping every 2.5 minutes. This was with 500 ml of fluid in a Paterson 3 reel tank - so there was plenty of air left for the fluid to move. I did see grains all over the place when I inspect with a loupe and my scanner [Nikon Coolscan] threw up an awful lot of them but on the whole I think it's manageable. Need to try with some shorter development time as well for the next roll. Some examples are here -> http://www.flickr.com/photos/a_peek_in_my_world/tags/surajkund/ .. all shot at box speed.

Thanks for sharing your time and agitation. Was your contrast ok right out of the scanner? I find that if they scan good they print in a wet darkroom easily as well. I would have rated the film slower than box speed. It looks like your shadow detail is gone, so EI32 would probably be better. 25 might be too much. This film has a short exposure latitude. I am finding you REALLY have to nail it to get what you are after.

Chris

 

[vpwphoto]

I some of my best negatives from years ago were PAN F in Zone VI thin emulsion film developer. Look it up, I am sure an equivalent can be had at Freestyle. It was a two part liquid mix. I still have some but I am sure it is stale...

 

[Lee L]

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Lee

 

[debanddg]

Chris,

I had to boost the contrast slightly after scanning. The original tiff file does have plenty of shadow details [as I see it while I type]. This this was my second attempt with Pan F. I think I will also try the timings that Lee has pointed out the next time.

Regards,
Deb

 

[Terrence Brennan]

Pan F and D-23

If you are interested in mixing your own you might try Kodak D-23 diluted 1:1. This is a soft working developer and will help tame Pan-F's contrast. With only 2 ingredients it is easy to mix and very economical.

That's the combination I found which works the best for me. I rate the film at ISO 32, and follow the D-23 with a soak in a 2% sodium metaborate (Kodalk) bath. If I skip the sodium metaborate step, I find an ISO of 20 works best, although the negative is a bit less contrasty.

 

[kq6up]

That's the combination I found which works the best for me. I rate the film at ISO 32, and follow the D-23 with a soak in a 2% sodium metaborate (Kodalk) bath. If I skip the sodium metaborate step, I find an ISO of 20 works best, although the negative is a bit less contrasty.

Just curious, how does the metaborate change the ISO? I guess the film is still developing when you dunk it in the metaborate? There is one example on Flickr, and it does look pretty clean.

Thanks, I will save that for another roll. I am trying to find what is the best B/W film developer combo for 35mm and large enlargement factors. I like Fomapan 100 + Rodinal the best for MF and LF, but it is too grainy for 35mm.

I am going to be doing some comparisons with Pan F+ and Delta 100. I am not too fond of TMAX100, and I hear that Delta 100 has the edge on sharpness (no pun intended).

Chris