Ilford Ortho Plus and reciprocity failure.

[Robert Kennedy]

In my efforts to reproduce late 19th century looks, I am trying an experiment.

I got a box of Ortho Plus, and plan on slamming a bunch of ND filters on it to lower the effective ASA to around 1, maybe 1/2. That way I can get a long exposure and enough "softening" to get the look I want. The ortho aspect should help too.

Now, first off, what should I rate it at? I have heard that 25 is recomended, but I have also heard 40-80. I plan on using D-76 in a 1:1 mix (simply because that is what I have now. Later this may change.)

Secondly, after popping the needed ND filters on it (most likely my 8x, a 4x, and who knows what else...), I am really dropping the film speed. To the point where I wonder about reciprocity failure. Any suggestions here or should I even worry?

Thirdly, I have an odd concern. Well, not odd. The safelight in the new darkroom I was assigned seems AWFULLY bright. It is a red light and about 4 feet from my work space, but it seems just...well...BRIGHT...I dunno. Hard to quantify. It just seems like my eyes don't have to adjust much when I am in there. I am used to the softer, yellow lights, and a MUCH softer red light. Should this be a concern at all? I hear people say less is more in this matter, and when I get some time I might run some fogging tests, but how red sensitive is Ortho film?

 

[lee]

if the light is red and you are using ortho material I would say no problems here. Why not run a test or trot over to the book store and get a couple of sheets of ruby lith material and put them in the safe light.

lee\c

 

[Shmoo]

I'll be interested in your results. I've been trying the Ortho Plus and have found the info on the Ilford website to be pretty good as a baseline. Reciprocity info is also there...and is pretty accurate. I used D76 stock solution for 10 minutes and wasn't happy with the contrast so I tested it for 13 and was happier. The negs I tested were shot at ISO 80 and had exposure times from 4 seconds to 3-4 minutes.

Not sure about the safety light situation though. I was using a changing bag and Jobo. Good luck!

S

 

[Shmoo]

I forgot to mention that I was shooting a grouping of clocks, including an electric alarm clock with red illuminated letters which did not register on the film at all (this was one of the 3 minute exposures). The film is supposed to be blue sensitive, I think. Hope that helps!

S

 

[fingel]

I wouldn't worry about the safelight too much. Treat it like you would photo paper, (don't leave it sitting out on the counter outside of its bag, I have used it with a red light, and a yellow light with no ill effects, but leaving it out too long will fog it eventually.)
I usually expose it @ 25 and develop by inspection using D76 1:1 or Rodinal 1:50 in trays. One of the beauties of this stuff is you can develop by inspection very easily under the red safe light.

 

[dr bob]

I'm planning on investigating the use of the Ilford ortho film soon and have done some research. Also these posts are revealing. As I understand the data, Ilford ortho has sensitivity in the violet, blue and green spectrums with some incursion into the yellow. I have used Kodak Lith film under red light with absolutely no problems. I plan to do the same with the Ilford film. I probably will not use the OC filter just to be safe.

 

[Robert Kennedy]

Lee - Ruby lith at the bookstore? Maybe a sweatshirt or a bottle of perfume...not ruby lith. But I think I will do that. I think I will also check the wattage. It seems to have gotten brighter recently, and I am betting that someone replaced a burned out bulb with something a bit strong.

I think I will go for the 25/inspection route. I need to go low here. Hopefully I will get what I want, and this can hold me over until I get more plate holders and get the coating methods down. Plus, it is always good to have an option.

 

[glbeas]

Thirdly, I have an odd concern. Well, not odd. The safelight in the new darkroom I was assigned seems AWFULLY bright. It is a red light and about 4 feet from my work space, but it seems just...well...BRIGHT...I dunno. Hard to quantify. It just seems like my eyes don't have to adjust much when I am in there. I am used to the softer, yellow lights, and a MUCH softer red light. Should this be a concern at all? I hear people say less is more in this matter, and when I get some time I might run some fogging tests, but how red sensitive is Ortho film?

If your safelight is that bright maybe you should be pointing it towards the ceiling to make a more even and diffuse lighting. Mine is a big rectangulr style and I have it hanging about 18 inches from the ceiling pointing up. No shadows anywhere.

 

[Robert Kennedy]

Well, I did a test using the Ilford Ortho. There is no fogging, and I checked the safelight and it has just a 15watt bulb in it. Which is apparently appropriate, so maybe I am just getting sensitive or something. Perhaps the selenium toner is getting to me....

Anyway, I shot two sheets in my backyard and rated it at 25. I had to go all the way down to f/32, so in the future I will probably use the ND filters so I can open up and get it all "soft".


I developed in D-76 1:1 with inspection. Seems to have worked. The red of the chili pepper lights is definately filtered out.

Interestingly, the lower hummingbird feeder is also red, but I guess it had enough highlights and transparency to be a bit more lit up. The other feeder is a mix of blue and reducing red.

Anywho....any comments? Like I said I want to get that plate look as much as possible, and I think if I opened up a bit more, and maybe even used a lens that vignetted a bit, I could get what I want. I have an old Kodak lens from a Brownie that covers 4x5. Should be worth mounting and seeing what i get.