brian steinberger
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In fact I think this paper looks better untoned than toned for documentary work and only once in a while will I use a dash of selenium to deepen blacks and only when there is no danger of introducing noticeable colour shift. If you make a best print on MGIV and then do the same on MGWT I have generally found the MG IV print looks inferior. I have found that MGIV really benefits from printing a bit soft and given a hammering in selenium. MGWT seems to allow for that sort of lusciousness and depth without being messed with.
Thanks for the post Steve! Just curious, when you re-printed the split-toned MGIV prints, how did that translate over to MGWT? Did you just print them like all the other MGWT prints in your show (just selenium toned)? Or did you slightly sepia toned them as well?
That said, Azo is a pure chloride emulsion and exhibits all the micro contrast one could hope for so the final color is the major concern.
GAF 125 appears to be Dektol (Kodak D-72) in all respects except for one: it contains less carbonate (65 grams as opposed to 80). This is quite interesting to me as I've always thought of Dektol as one the coldest of developers. Certainly too cold for Steve's work. I guess the reduced activity from backing off on the accelerator must also affect print color.
John, I know in the past you used cold tone developers sometimes with MGWT. Are you still doing so?
I might suggest that the corners flaking off are a result of using a razor blade to trim and finalize the print for dry mounting. I used to use a razor blade and metal straight edge to trim prints and I would on occasion see the corners chip off either before or after dry mounting.
Some years ago I purchased a Roto Trimmer, I said then and still say now, the single best purchase I have made for my photography in the past 15 years. I have not seen a chipped corner since.
I now just use the Ilford Warmtone Developer and Agfa Neutol WA. For now my taste is on the warmer side of things....but the MGWT can even get a colder look than the regular MGIV if used on the right cold tone developer. If cold tones are what you want then try Clayton Ultra Cold Tone for a real nice look. When combined with sepia toning or polytoner you can get some really cool colors out of it.
I might suggest that the corners flaking off are a result of using a razor blade to trim and finalize the print for dry mounting. I used to use a razor blade and metal straight edge to trim prints and I would on occasion see the corners chip off either before or after dry mounting.
Some years ago I purchased a Roto Trimmer, I said then and still say now, the single best purchase I have made for my photography in the past 15 years. I have not seen a chipped corner since.
Steve, I would love to see photos of these prints, framed up, from the show, or whatever you have. I know I won't be able to see the subtle print color on a computer monitor of course, but it would still be interesting.
GAF 125 appears to be Dektol (Kodak D-72) in all respects except for one: it contains less carbonate (65 grams as opposed to 80). This is quite interesting to me as I've always thought of Dektol as one the coldest of developers. Certainly too cold for Steve's work. I guess the reduced activity from backing off on the accelerator must also affect print color.
I must say I am surprised to say the least how such small differences can haver such a different look.
.........Since Potassium Hydroxide is strongly alkaline, it seems the major difference between the Coldtone and Warmtone developers is pH, with the warmtone developer being more alkaline.
So simple pH regulation seems the major driving force between getting cool or warm tones in print developer... and since the MSDS sheets of Multigrade and Cooltone developer are identical, yet the products marketed seperately, they must have minor differences in composition that are enough to force tones in the cooler or more neutral direction.
If my memory serves me correct, I always thought that Brilliant was made by Ilford for Calumet?
http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/
My recollection tells me that Zone VI studios had the paper manufactured by an unknown paper coating company in France when the original Oriental Seagull had an emulsion change back in the nineties.
Also, had a good friend who purchased a bunch of Brilliant from ZOne VI studios just before the Calumet buyout. He believed he was getting a super deal as the price was about 1/2 normal retail. Turned out the paper was bad, severely lacked contrast and he never did get any satisfaction from Zone VI and lost hundreds in the deal.
Makes sense, but I've often read that cold tone developers are more alkaline (= more active). Very strange. Maybe there are components that don't have to be listed.
Something might be of interest. The Australian MSDS docs often have more detail than others. If you look at the Ilford site, you'll see separate entry for English/Australian. It's not because our language is so different (though some might disagree) but the regulations are different.
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