Ilford MGIV FB and local bleaching

[StigHagen]

A problem with the standard Ilford MGIV FB paper is that it doesn't respond very well to local bleaching using potassium ferricyianide. You have to some way work through the surface and then suddenly you get through and things are happening fast.

Is there any way to do local bleaching with Ilford MGIV FB paper that works better? Maybe prepare it in some solution before bleaching? Or are there other bleaching materials that works better?

Also I wonder, how long can a mixed solution of Potassium Ferricyianide be stored before it should be discarded?

 

[StigHagen]

I found another local bleacher called Fotospeed Farmers Reducer. Does it work well with Ilford MGIV? How does it differ from Potassium Ferrycianide?

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Basically, Farmers Reducer is a combination of potassium ferrycianide and fixer. It has the benefit of bleaching and fixing the bleached silver at the same time, but the mixture of the two has a very limited life (10 minutes or so). You can achieve the same effect by taking a ferri solution and mixing it with working fixer yourself. I prefer to use them sequentially.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

A problem with the standard Ilford MGIV FB paper is that it doesn't respond very well to local bleaching using potassium ferricyianide. ...

Did you apply fixer after applying the bleach? You need both for this to work.

 

[StigHagen]

Did you apply fixer after applying the bleach? You need both for this to work.

yes I did...it bleaches, but other papers, like fomabrom 111 and Adox mcc 110, respond better (they respond generally better to toners I guess). With Ilford its more like you have to work for a while before the bleach start to work. What do you think Ralph, what is your experience with this paper?

Maybe I should use a stronger solution? But then again when it has passed the "border" it will be hard to control!

 

[Marco B]

yes I did...it bleaches, but other papers, like fomabrom 111 and Adox mcc 110, respond better (they respond generally better to toners I guess). With Ilford its more like you have to work for a while before the bleach start to work. What do you think Ralph, what is your experience with this paper?

Maybe I should use a stronger solution? But then again when it has passed the "border" it will be hard to control!

Standard Ilford MGIV (non warmtone), is THE exception in terms of bleaching. Of all the papers I tried to sepia tone in a two batch bleach / redevelop (ferricyanide / thiourea), standard Ilford MGIV is by far the most resistant to bleaching. Like you experienced, you may need to use a far higher concentrated bleach solution to reduce bleaching times compared to most other papers.

I have used Ilford MGFB Warmtone, Agfa MCC (FB and RC), Kentmere Fineprint and VC Select as well, and non responded nearly as slowly to bleach as standard Ilford MGIV...

 

[StigHagen]

What about mixing two dilutions, one strong and one more dilute. Then first applying the strong dilution to break the barrier and then working with a more dilute mixture for the rest of time.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

What about mixing two dilutions, one strong and one more dilute. Then first applying the strong dilution to break the barrier and then working with a more dilute mixture for the rest of time.

Caution! Bleaching combined with patience is the recipe for success.