Ilford method option

[fdelconte10]

Hello everybody,

Francesco's here. Long time Italian lurker, I've learned a lot reading on this forum thanks to all.
I've a situation and I would like to know your opinion. I've recently relocated in another country, and I left my dark room for the moment. In January, I am having a solo exhibition with 30 50x60cm FB prints which I am going to produced by myself. I've found a darkroom in Brussels, the city where I live now. It's a community space, so I won't be able to work there as much as I want. So, time will be particularly precious. I am planning to do 10 sessions and in each session I will make around 3 prints. My main concern is about fixing and washing (obviously). I am considering the Ilford method due to its quickness, but I've never used it before.

Every session I intend to make 4 liters of new fixer, which will have to process max 4-5 prints (tests included). I've read about the theory, but sometimes reality it's different. Here few questions:

- I purchased the Adofix fixer, can I use it at the dilution 1+4 for this method? I will also call in the next days Fotoimpex to have their opinion on this.

- If, due to the size of the print, the fixer would stay in contact with the print for 70" instead of 60", would it be a big deal?

- Is there someone that use this method in a satisfactory way for 50x60 cm prints? If so, how do you stay within the 60" mark?

- Any suggestion is more than welcome, especially from who has dealt with issues related to durability of the print and archival properties.

Thanks again everybody,
Greetings from Brussels
Francesco

 

[Michael Howard]

Hello and welcome! The Adofix you have is the powder, correct? If so, 1 minute will not be enough for archival fixing. If it's a liquid Rapid fix, then the time in fix isn't exact, 2-3 minutes total time will be no problem. Your biggest issue in a community darkroom will be washing your FB prints. One suggestion that may be easy for you will be two large tubs of water you can place the prints in, let soak (with frequent shuffling) for at least one hour, with frequent water changes (hence 2 tubs). If the darkroom has an archival washer, then your all set. Good luck on your project!

 

[fdelconte10]

You are right, I forgot to say that the fixer is a liquid rapid fixer

 

[Sirius Glass]

Hello everybody,

Francesco's here. Long time Italian lurker, I've learned a lot reading on this forum thanks to all.
I've a situation and I would like to know your opinion. I've recently relocated in another country, and I left my dark room for the moment. In January, I am having a solo exhibition with 30 50x60cm FB prints which I am going to produced by myself. I've found a darkroom in Brussels, the city where I live now. It's a community space, so I won't be able to work there as much as I want. So, time will be particularly precious. I am planning to do 10 sessions and in each session I will make around 3 prints. My main concern is about fixing and washing (obviously). I am considering the Ilford method due to its quickness, but I've never used it before.

Every session I intend to make 4 liters of new fixer, which will have to process max 4-5 prints (tests included). I've read about the theory, but sometimes reality it's different. Here few questions:

- I purchased the Adofix fixer, can I use it at the dilution 1+4 for this method? I will also call in the next days Fotoimpex to have their opinion on this.

- If, due to the size of the print, the fixer would stay in contact with the print for 70" instead of 60", would it be a big deal?

- Is there someone that use this method in a satisfactory way for 50x60 cm prints? If so, how do you stay within the 60" mark?

- Any suggestion is more than welcome, especially from who has dealt with issues related to durability of the print and archival properties.

Thanks again everybody,
Greetings from Brussels
Francesco

Welcome to Photrio

 

[otto.f]

I did for my 50x60 FB prints Adofix 1+7 for max 3 minutes. They still hang on the wall without changes in color or brightness. I washed mostly an hour or a bit less, depending on the refreshment rythm

 

[L Gebhardt]

Pickup some residual hypo test solution and test on some test strips that were washed the same as your prints. Then you will know for sure if the prints are washed enough.

For prints that size I like single tray processing where you pour out the solutions instead of moving the papers. That might help you hit the 60" mark more consistently.

 

[MattKing]

Can you re-wash at home? If so, you can complete the process there in a bathtub or shower or ???

 

[Dustin McAmera]

I think the OP is asking for advice from people who have tried this method, which saves time (and water):

ILFORD optimum permanence wash sequence for FB papers

The ILFORD Optimum Permanence wash system is a method of processing fibre base papers for maximum print longevity, whilst reducing the volume of water used

www.ilfordphoto.com

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

I have been using the Ilford method of fixing and washing prints for many years. Print gets a good, rinse in a tray of water, with vigorous agitation, before sticking it in a bath of HCA. Then I begin the fill, agitate, dump, repeat process. The reason I went this way was because of limited space in my darkroom in Japan. The largest size I worked with was 20x24. Prints from those early days still look great. I should add that I also selenium toned them before the wash and I used fibre-based papers...

 

[Doremus Scudder]

Ciao Francesco!

I'll try to help a bit.

The advantage of the Ilford method is that it reduces washing time (the few minutes of fixing time saved is inconsequential).

The idea is to fix for less time in stronger fixer to keep the fixer from soaking all the way into the paper base. Keeping the fixing time to 60 seconds does this.

Then, you can use the wash method described by Ilford here: https://www.ilfordphoto.com/ilford-optimum-permanance-wash-sequence-fb-papers/

NB: The wash-aid step is required. Without it, the wash will not be effective. Also, if you plan on toning your prints in selenium, the final wash needs to be minimum 30 minutes. See the information on the page I linked to above.

Now, about the problem of keeping fixing time to exactly 60 seconds. I would try to keep the time as close to 60 seconds as possible. To do this with a large print, you'll likely have to not let the print drain very long.

I would proceed as follows: After the stop, drain the print well. Then immerse it in the fixer quickly and agitate. Pull the print at the 50-second mark and drain it for exactly 10 seconds. Then immerse it quickly in a tray of running water (as Ilford recommends). This will carry over a bit of fixer, but if the water flow is adequate, this will be no problem. Agitate in this tray for five minutes (as per Ilford) and then transfer to the wash aid.

Continue with the sequence as Ilford describes.

You should not have to worry about fixer exhaustion if you fix 10 50x60cm prints or fewer in two liters of rapid fixer diluted to "film strength," which is usually 1+4. If you fix more prints than 10, you will not be fixing them to Ilford's "optimum permanence" standard.

An alternative: If you plan on or need to fix more than 10 prints in a session, you can always refix and wash again later. You can fix up to 40 50x60 prints in two liters of rapid fixer 1+4 to what Ilford calls "commercial standards." This should be followed by the rinse, wash aid and final wash. Dry your prints and take them home. Then, you can refix and wash later in another session to bring them to the "optimum permanence" standard. This is essentially giving two-bath fixation, just split in time. It works just fine as long as the prints are washed adequately in the first session.

I often work this way; I'll do a printing session, make 30-35 prints over a few days, fixing them only once. I wash and dry them and then discard the ones that I don't like. The rest I'll keep for toning and do a toning session later, in which I give another fix, toner rinse, wash aid, final wash and then dry.

Hope this helps,

Doremus

 

[fdelconte10]

I really appreciate your help guys. In particular, thanks a lot Doremus for the detailed explanation!
Now I fell more confident in trying this method for the first time.

All the best from Brussels,
Francesco