Ilford FP4+ & Pyrocat HD

[JDW22]

I'm returning to LF (4x5) photography after a nearly 40 year hiatus. The last three years I've been shooting medium format. I've been primarily shooting Fuji Acros 100 in my Hasselblad and developing in HC-110 dil H using a Nikor SS tank/Hewes reel set-up.

I'm considering Ilford FP4+ for my 4x5 work and developing in Pyrocat HD. I've seen so many wonderful images produced with this combination that I want to give it a try. I would be developing in the new SP-445 film developing tank I recently acquired. Ultimately, the negatives would be scanned. Accordingly, I have a few questions:

1. I typically shoot my Acros 100 at 80. What would you recommend I shoot the FP4+ at?

2. What dilution would your recommend I use for the Pyrocat HD?

3. What development times, agitation, etc would your recommend for this combination (e.g. FP4+, Pyrocat HD, SP-445 tank)?

Any other comments and/or suggestions you'd like to offer would be sincerely appreciated.

 

[Alan9940]

FP4+ and Pyrocat-HD is a wonderful combination, IMO. I've not done any formal testing with this combination, but I'd start with EI100 or EI125 and adjust to taste from there, based on shadow areas. For dilution, I'd start with 1:1:100 for silver printing; if alt process, I'd go with 2:2:100. Development times are suggested in the instruction sheet that comes along with the developer. Agitation seems to be a personal thing, but Pyrocat-HD seems to work beautifully for any agitation technique you throw at it; every 30 secs to semi-stand/stand development. I use an extreme minimal agitation technique with 4x5 and 8x10 film in tubes. If you haven't read all the info on pyrocat-hd.com, I'd strongly suggest starting there. And, here are instructions: http://www.digitaltruth.com/products/formulary_tech/01-5091.pdf

Have fun!!

 

[adelorenzo]

I've had great results exposing at box speed and just following the stock directions that came with my Photographers Formulary kit which are straight from Sandy King.

I use Pyrocat-MC so it's a little different than HD. For -MC they recommend 1:1:100 at 7:30 with an extra 35% for printing on VC papers. So I use 10 minutes. This is in rotary development, you add another 15% for inversion.

I would start here:
http://www.pyrocat-hd.com/html/times.html

Also be aware that acid stop baths and fixers are not recommended as they can reduce the stain. I stop with water rinse and then use TF4 fixer.

 

[Alan9940]

I have used both a water stop and a very, very dilute acid stop (3ml of 28% acid to 1,000ml water) followed by fix in TF-5 and never had any issue with reduced stain. FWIW

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

It's a combo that I've been using for about 15 years. I shoot FP4 at 64. I prefer a robust looking negative so my Pyrocat-HD is mixed at 2+2+100. 21C in BTZS Tubes (10ml A + 10ml B + 500ml tap water). N time is 8:30; N-1 7:00; N-2 6:00; N+1 11;30; N+2 16:00.
I use a very dilute stop bath consisting of one table spoon citric acid to one litre of tap water.
I've used Ilford's Rapid Fix for years.

 

[JDW22]

Thanks all for the terrific information you've shared thus far. In the past, I've used my developer as a "one shot" component. It would be my intent to do the same with Pyrocat-HD. Other than convenience and a reduction in exposure to the "nasty" side of mixing the dry form, are there any pros/cons to using the liquid version I see available from Photographers' Formulary?

 

[Alan9940]

I would stick with the liquid; get the version mixed in glycol for maximum storage time. FWIW, I mix it from scratch; other than the dry from of catechol it's not that dangerous. I always use rubber gloves for that purpose, only, and wear a lab grade face mask. I also mix in the catechol outdoors for plenty of ventilation and to avoid any 'dust' in the house. Each person needs to decide what level of risk they're willing to assume, though.

 

[John Layton]

Love the HD in Glycol for FP4+(I rate asa at 100), diluted 1:1:100 in distilled water. LF sheets go together into pre-soak (w/few drops of foot-flo added) then into individual trays (placed in single large tray which gets tipped to agitate normally to minimally) for developer step, then together into stop diluted to 1/4 "normal" concentration, then into plain water which is slightly alkaline at my location (mitigates acid carryover to fix) - then into TF-4 alkaline fix (this also mixed w/distilled water) prior to washing. A word of warning for what is mostly an FP4 (not developer) issue - that if you work in the realm of strong reciprocity failure (very long exposures) you be very careful to put important shadows high enough on the exposure curve (for me typically zone 4), and develop accordingly, or consider intensifying said shadows with a bit of locally-applied selenium. Then again, there are times when reciprocity failure, when left "uncorrected" or semi-corrected, can provide some needed expansion. For this, FP4+ offers a very flexible palette!

 

[John Layton]

hmmm...foot-flo...new product? (foto-flo!) guess we need some forum-specific auto correct/corrects! (moderators take note?)

 

[Chris Livsey]

In the past, I've used my developer as a "one shot" component. It would be my intent to do the same with Pyrocat-HD.

Pyrocat HD is one shot, full stop, and you should mix immediately before use.
I favour a semi-stand as mentioned above with agitation for first min then at at say 4,8,12 mins for 18mins total but it is very tolerant.
I hesitate to recommend a speed for FP4+ you need to test to your taste.
This @18 mins as described on 35mm stock yellow filter 35mm f1.8 w Nikkor S mount.
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