Ilford developer for outdated Tri-x pan?

[campy51]

I was given some 120 film that dates back to 1979-1985 and want to shoot it but I am reading it should be developed in HC-110. I don't have any and a bottle cost $29 at B&H. Can I use my Ilford developer?

 

[mrosenlof]

your old Tri-X will probably have reduced sensitivity than when new, and a higher level of base fog. Both of those effects may inconsistent across the film area. Yes, you can develop in your Ilford developer. You don't say which developer you have, but you can probably take what the developer package suggests for HP5 as a starting point. A lot will depend on how the film was stored.

 

[Paul Howell]

As noted by mrosenlof we don't know what Ilford developer you have. ID 11 is their version of D76, it should work well, DDX will also work but may add additional base fog.

 

[campy51]

I'm using the multigrade.

 

[cowanw]

Ilford Multigrade developer is for paper; does that matter?

 

[removed account4]

I was given some 120 film that dates back to 1979-1985 and want to shoot it but I am reading it should be developed in HC-110. I don't have any and a bottle cost $29 at B&H. Can I use my Ilford developer?

rule of thumb for old film is over expose by 1 f-stop every decade ..
doyou have dektol ?
i'd use dektol 1:6 for 6mins if you have ansco 130 id do the same thing
but at 72ºF instead of 68ºF
you could also make a strong batch of caffenol C ( teaspoon method vit c washing soda instant coffee )
and add 20cc of whatever stock print developer you have lying around
doesn't matter which one ... roll film water rinse 1st then agitate 1 full min 10 each additional for 7-8mins
your negatives will be nice ...
ive been using dektol or ansco 130 t0 process film for almsot 20 years, maybe more .. and coffee with dektol or 130 in it for 1/2 that time

 

[Paul Howell]

I would not use a paper developer, for any film, there are so many excellent film developers. Not knowing how many rolls or any idea of how good any will be I hesitate to recommend HC 110, tends to be pricy. I would get a quart kit of D76 and develop stock. Run a test roll, use ISO 100 as base and shoot a ring around +1, 2, 3 and -1,2,3 then develop for standard time for Trix in D76. You will then know how badly fogged the film is and if good what your EI is for remaining rolls. Although as the film expired dates run a few years. Other option, a quart fit for Dinafine, a 2 bath split developer, any temp under around 90 degrees will do, no matter what the film 3 mints bath A 3 mint bath B, water rinse, fix, hypo clear and wash. I would still shoot a ring around to determine E.I. I think both Freestyle and B&H now carry Dinafine in quart kits.

 

[Bill Burk]

Well normally I wouldn't use a paper developer for film, but for '70s era Tri-X anything you use will be just fine.

I would say you could shoot it at 64 definitely not 400, you'll have much fog and that will make your film effectively slower.

At 64 your shadow details will begin to rise above the fog, giving you a grainy, full range image.

 

[removed account4]

hi bill,
i don't get grainy negatives processing my film in print developer, ever. smooth tonality ..
john

 

[Bill Burk]

hi bill,
i don't get grainy negatives processing my film in print developer, ever. smooth tonality ..
john

I just meant that the fog, from the age, would increase the grain (compared to fresh Tri-X)...

 

[removed account4]

I just meant that the fog, from the age, would increase the grain (compared to fresh Tri-X)...

ahh, i get it .. thanks !