Ilford Delta 100 scratches on the base (120 format)

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mshchem

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I can only repeat myself: How??
If a roller doesn't roll. I agree that it's unlikely. Either Ilford is scratching, or the user is scratching or it's some weird scanner thing.

The only time I've had scratching is, when, in my youth, I squeegeed film that hadn't been in Hardening fixer. I solved the problem, threw away the squeegee, and went back to Kodak Rapid Fix with Hardener.
 

mshchem

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I agree! I have never had a roll film back or for that matter, a roll film camera that could put a scratch or any mark on 120 film base. On the emulsion side, yes. Now, if you're talking 220 film? That's a whole different ball game. I think M. Carter has the perfect solution to the problem and that is to let Ilford have a look at it. I can't see how this could get by their QC, but it's possible. JohnW
I'm not saying it's likely. Autograph cameras had a stylus that would mar through paper. What I see is bad scratches. I'm not completely convinced it's not on the emulsion side. Can't tell from here
Best
 

AgX

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This thread is about rollfilm, even the backside of rollfilm as such. How can a camera finely scratch film through the backing paper?
The protruding part would have to cut through the backing paper. Otherwise there would not be fine scratches.

Kodak Autographic film would not be marred through its backing paper.
Writing on the backing paper would disturb the pigment-layer of a special-tissue rolled between the film proper and a translucent backing paper. Due to this disturbance the film is exposed at these parts by the light hitting the backing backing during the writing or short after. (Maybe the pigmented paper and the backing paper were even one.)
 
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M Carter

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Try an hour's re-soak in Ilfotol or similar & pay attention to how you dry the film - too much forced air drying before it's been allowed to drip off a bit can be a cause of strange streaks.

I dry all my film in the bathroom; I run the shower to steam it up, hang the film, turn the shower off, and close the door. I don't squeegie 4x5 film, I just hang it. By the time I leave the bathroom, much of the water has collected in the lower corner, and I dab it up with a kim wipe (just touch a wadded kim wipe to the corner, not the emulsion), and shut the door.

My final rinse is distilled with the recommended amount of Photoflo (not "a splash" or "a few drops"). This is the only film I've seen this sort of crazing, and it's not on the emulsion side. Last week I hung a mix of Rollei IR400 sheets and Delta 100 sheets - only the Delta had the marks. They're on the base side, not the emulsion.
 

mshchem

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I dry all my film in the bathroom; I run the shower to steam it up, hang the film, turn the shower off, and close the door. I don't squeegie 4x5 film, I just hang it. By the time I leave the bathroom, much of the water has collected in the lower corner, and I dab it up with a kim wipe (just touch a wadded kim wipe to the corner, not the emulsion), and shut the door.

My final rinse is distilled with the recommended amount of Photoflo (not "a splash" or "a few drops"). This is the only film I've seen this sort of crazing, and it's not on the emulsion side. Last week I hung a mix of Rollei IR400 sheets and Delta 100 sheets - only the Delta had the marks. They're on the base side, not the emulsion.
If I remember correctly ,Ilford sheet is polyester base, roll film acetate . Makes this even stranger.
 

mshchem

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This thread is about rollfilm, even the backside of rollfilm as such. How can a camera finely scratch film through the backing paper?
The protruding part would have to cut through the backing paper. Otherwise there would not be fine scratches.

Kodak Autographic film would not be marred through its backing paper.
Writing on the backing paper would disturb the pigment-layer of a special-tissue rolled between the film proper and a translucent backing paper. Due to this disturbance the film is exposed at these parts by the light hitting the backing backing during the writing or short after. (Maybe the pigmented paper and the backing paper were even one.)
OK it's not the rollers. But the film will show stress whitening if creased or marred. If it's happening on sheet and roll film that's even more perplexing
 
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Joel Obrecht

Joel Obrecht

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Hi all, many thanks for your kind answers! I wrote to Ilford via the website form, no answers so far.

I still have some delta 100 rolls to develop, and will definitely try using a wetting agent and to dry in a humid room. It can very well be that the film dries too fast? But I'm really not sure because the parallel stripes were already there when I took the film out of the fixer.

If some of you have any other means to contact Ilford, I would gladly do, and send them anything they could need. It's a pity because I liked it a lot :sad:

Have a nice day,
OP.
 

MattKing

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If some of you have any other means to contact Ilford, I would gladly do, and send them anything they could need. It's a pity because I liked it a lot :sad:
They do maintain a presence here. Try "Starting a Conversation" with "Harman Tech Service" using the "Inbox" link at the top right of the screen.
 

AgX

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Hi all, many thanks for your kind answers! I wrote to Ilford via the website form, no answers so far.
In the long past here was always praise for their fast replies on service matters or quality issues.
 

John Wiegerink

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Hate to rehash old threads, but by golly I just had the same problem with HP5+ in Pyrocat-HDC semi-stand. I know it's not the camera or a faulty developing regime. The film was purchase in June of 2018 so it wasn't that old either. The images were near perfect from my old and trusty 3.5F Rolleiflex and super-sharp. I normally use Xtol-R with HP5+, but since I was at my makeshift cottage darkroom and not at home the only two developers I had were Pyrocat-HDC or Rodinal. I had not used Pyrocat-HDC with HP5+, but that's what I picked. I used distilled water for all steps except the after fixer rinse. I also used two drops of Edwal's LFN in distilled water for the final rinse before hanging to dry (no finger-wiping or squeegee). Like I said, the negatives themselves are spot on and sharp, but those squiggly lines run up and down the negative. At home I hang my 120 film horizontal (drys much faster and no water spots), but at my cottage I have to hang it vertical. I can't post a picture until I get back up to the cottage, but the lines are exactly like is shown it the OP's post. This is actually the very first time this has happened to me and I'm still curious as to what causes it. When I do get north to the cottage I will try another roll and hang it horizontal this time and see what happens. Did anyone hear back from Ilford about this particular problem????? JohnW
 
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