Ilford Chemicals

[morrisphotos123]

Hello I am Using

Ilford Rapid Fixer

Ilford Ilfostop

Ilford Multigrade Paper Developer


I was wondering once mixed up ready for using What ones can i keep mixed up in a bottle ready for naptime just needing warming up

 

[Rick A]

All of them

 

[MartinP]

Please read the instructions which come with the products and the expanded product information on the IlfordPhoto website.

This area of the forum is for colour work. You have also asked this exact same question in the black and white sub-forum.

EDIT: Thanks for moving the post. Keeps things sort of organised.

 

[BMbikerider]

I would say only the fixer and the stop bath can be stored ready mixed.

Multigrade developer once diluted will go 'off' quite quickly, in as short a time 24 hours it will loose some of it's 'punch'.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

Please read the instructions which come with the products and the expanded product information on the IlfordPhoto website.

This area of the forum is for colour work. You have also asked this exact same question in the black and white sub-forum.

Yes, you are rapidly becoming persona non grata. It's not unreasonable for people to do a bit of research/reading on their own!

 

[pentaxuser]

Personally I wouldn't dilute developer prior to immediate use but if in a Nova processor the correctly diluted developer can last many days where the surface of the developer is covered when not printing I'd expect that in a full PET bottle diluted dev should last at least as long as in a Nova processor if not longer

That's all theory of course so why risk anything when you don't have to.

pentaxuser

 

[Roger Cole]

I don't know about regular Ilford Multigrade but I've kept working strength Ilford Warmtone developer for several weeks in a full tightly capped bottle with no ill effects. I've kept LPD for two MONTHS that way. I still wouldn't mix fresh until I was ready to use it, but if you don't exhaust it, and it's unlikely you will in one session, you can fill a bottle, squeeze the air out, cap it tightly, and keep it at least a while.

 

[Craig Swensson]

Yes, you are rapidly becoming persona non grata. It's not unreasonable for people to do a bit of research/reading on their own!

guy has made 34 posts, why don`t you relax, someone else got there before you did sheriff.

morrisphoto, as you are starting out on this keep everything real simple. Fixer and stop can be kept.The paper developer is a 1 to 9 dilution,so you wont be using a whole lot at each time, throw it after each session.I am guessing that you are teaching yourself how to print, therefore one variable you will not have to consider is expired or tired paper developer.

 

[Richard Jepsen]

I'm not sure why one would mix print developer and delay use. I never keep developer past the DR work session. Many developers perform adequately 12 hours after dilution. Ilford Multigrade is not one. LPD & 130, even Dektol is better. For consistant tray results use developer prepared for a printing session within 12 hrs. If you are developing contact prints or not concerned about quality use until the blacks or contrast poop out. I've never used a Nova print processor and developer shelf life times may be different vs tray processing.

The stop and fix should be find if left in trays for several days if not weeks.

Just for info, I mixed LPD to a stock solution this March. Stored in a hard plastic 1L water bottle filled to the very top to minimize oxidation. This week I started to use the developer. It performs like fresh stock solution. Amazing.

 

[spijker]

I don't know about regular Ilford Multigrade but I've kept working strength Ilford Warmtone developer for several weeks in a full tightly capped bottle with no ill effects. I've kept LPD for two MONTHS that way. I still wouldn't mix fresh until I was ready to use it, but if you don't exhaust it, and it's unlikely you will in one session, you can fill a bottle, squeeze the air out, cap it tightly, and keep it at least a while.

That's also my experience with regular Ilford Multigrade developer. I replenish 1 liter "old" developer with 0.25 l freshly mixed developer at the start of every printing session. After about 2..3 hours, one liter goes back into a 1 L PET bottle (old mineral water bottle) and the rest down the drain. There's usually about a week between printing sessions for me. PET (recycle symbol "1") seems to be the most airtight plastic. I can't see any difference in the prints compared to when I make a complete fresh batch of developer.

I don't do this to save a bit of money. It's more about not wasting and minimizing the amount of chemical going down the drain.

 

[Roger Cole]

That's also my experience with regular Ilford Multigrade developer. I replenish 1 liter "old" developer with 0.25 l freshly mixed developer at the start of every printing session. After about 2..3 hours, one liter goes back into a 1 L PET bottle (old mineral water bottle) and the rest down the drain. There's usually about a week between printing sessions for me. PET (recycle symbol "1") seems to be the most airtight plastic. I can't see any difference in the prints compared to when I make a complete fresh batch of developer.

I don't do this to save a bit of money. It's more about not wasting and minimizing the amount of chemical going down the drain.

Even when I kept the working strength LPD for months (there's a thread here where I posted about it, don't recall if it was two months or almost three, something like that) I could not tell any difference in d-max between prints made with the old stuff and a freshly mixed comparison batch. The contrast was perhaps .25 grade lower with the older batch, which made exact matching difficult (I didn't do split printing with half grade spaced filters to try to match that, and I doubt most non-photographers would have noticed any difference in the prints) but other than the very slight contrast difference there was no discernible difference in the prints. If you want a really long lasting, commercially available developer, get Ethol LPD, with one caveat - the liquid concentrate is exactly twice the strength and roughly four times the cost per ounce, so twice as much per each measure of working solution as the powder to mix stock solution, so your dilutions change. Sometimes I consider the "not having to mix powders" worth the price, but if you do buy the concentrate, pour it into a different and squeezable bottle. The stock bottle is very hard plastic, you can't squeeze all the air out, and even what you do leaks once you break the foil seal. You can come back to find the bottle looking un-squeezed, and the life of the concentrate will reflect that. Pour it into a couple of squeezable plastic bottles you can seal and it'll keep as well or better than the stock mixed from powder.

Note this is about keeping the stock/concentrate, but the above trial I mention was indeed with mixed, previously used, working strength developer.