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MattKing

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I love mine...
It's on an Omega D5XL.
Parts & service are unobtainium, however.

I had a very similar setup, although mine was a D6.
And I was very happy with it.
At one time, I was able to get a footswitch for it that KHB put together - the challenge being the old style English connector.
While I expect parts can't be particularly easy to find, the head is probably serviceable with a hammer and a chisel, and I wouldn't be surprised if the controller parts were discrete and plentiful.
And the styling reminds me of old Nanaimo :smile:.
A move to smaller premises mandated a sale of my 4x5 enlarger, or I would have happily continued with it.
 

Lachlan Young

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It's pretty good, the grade spacings are odd on the original controller (as it matched gen 1 of modern multigrade). It can be run with the correct adapter (i.e. if you have the plugs and schematic) off an MG500 PSU & controller, if it has the voltage tap for the 500HLZ head.

Alternatively, if you are prepared to work on a split-grade methodology, you can run it off suitable power supplies directly.
 
OP
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35mm
It's pretty good, the grade spacings are odd on the original controller (as it matched gen 1 of modern multigrade). It can be run with the correct adapter (i.e. if you have the plugs and schematic) off an MG500 PSU & controller, if it has the voltage tap for the 500HLZ head.

Alternatively, if you are prepared to work on a split-grade methodology, you can run it off suitable power supplies directly.

I had not considered how the $00 would perform with more modern papers.
Is this an issue that can be overcome?
 

MattKing

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I used split grade techniques mostly - the O and 4 settings are totally functional for that.
And if you want to just rely on the grade spacings as is, you will soon get used to it - they just differ a bit from others. It is only a problem if you regularly use other enlargers with other sources.
I kept at hand a separate under the lens 6 filter from a PolyMax filter set for the rare times when I needed maximum possible contrast - the 400 series lets a little bit off too much green through even on the 4 setting.
 
OP
OP
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35mm
I used split grade techniques mostly - the O and 4 settings are totally functional for that.
And if you want to just rely on the grade spacings as is, you will soon get used to it - they just differ a bit from others. It is only a problem if you regularly use other enlargers with other sources.
I kept at hand a separate under the lens 6 filter from a PolyMax filter set for the rare times when I needed maximum possible contrast - the 400 series lets a little bit off too much green through even on the 4 setting.

OK; now I have the 400 lamphouse up and running.
My issue now is the dim output .
Using the 4x5 mixing box, for 6x6 negative, as I dont have the medium format one, my exposure times are 50 seconds at f 5.6!!
I can half that time on a Saunders LPL 670 VCC!!
Is this reasonable for this equipment?
 

MattKing

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Your problem is related to the mixing box.
That box is wasting 3/4 of the light output if you are using it with 6x6.
Considering that though, it would be worthwhile to check the interior of the mixing box to see that the contents aren't severely discoloured.
 
OP
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Your problem is related to the mixing box.
That box is wasting 3/4 of the light output if you are using it with 6x6.
Considering that though, it would be worthwhile to check the interior of the mixing box to see that the contents aren't severely discoloured.

The mixing boxes are like new, perhaps unused.
I will try the 35mm mixing box with the appropriate negative.
I also have new bulbs ordered.
 

MattKing

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Check as well that the dichroic filters aren't impeded by grime.
When I had mine, the mixing boxes showed signs of having led a good and highly productive life :smile:
But I had all three.
You probably don't have to be told this, but check that the light bulb mounts are slid to the correct position for the mixing box employed. And I guess you've checked that the bulbs are pointing properly.
1761357956523.png
 
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