if you mix your own chemistry from raw chemicals

[paul_c5x4]

A well known supplier made a goof with an order and sent me a box of chemicals by mistake. since it was a BIG box - the shipping cost was high so they said to keep it. The chemicals were a lifetimes supply of Sulphite and Carbonate with some hydroquinone.

So that's where my order disappeared to

Like others that have responded before me, I mix my own developers because they are not available commercially. 510-pyro is my main film developer and I'll mix various lith & paper developers as and when I need them.

 

[Ricus.stormfire]

I have not yet gone down this path, though i really want/need to, not so much for "normal" film/paper developers, but for lith developer, which seems IMPOSSIBLE to get here in South Africa....

I just need to figure out where to get all the ingredients....

 

[newcan1]

individual raw chemicals often keep almost indefinitely; mixed powders, not so. That's a benefit to mixing your own.

 

[AndreasT]

I do it for the enhanced sense of ownership of the process it gives me.

Ken

I like this idea. I think it would be fun to make ones own chemistry and there is something new to learn. Learning is always a good thing.
I would like to make Ansco 130, to find out why so many people love it. As well as PC-TEA, D-23 for a start.
What bother me is how expensive the raw chemicals are. It is really cheaper to buy finished products.

 

[dpurdy]

Reducing waste. I mix just what I need when I need it. Pyrocat, Dektol, Beutlers, Ansco 47, Ansco 130.
I hate pouring stuff down the drain because I don't feel like I can trust it. I mix it I know what I have.
Dennis

 

[RalphLambrecht]

that makes a lot of sense to me.

 

[presspass]

A combination of factors. I like D-23 and some of the divided developers, none of which are available locally. I also enjoy using Beutler with Foma 200, again not available locally. I also like the idea of avoiding dependence on major manufacturers - Kodak, for instance - who have not demonstrated any loyalty to those of us who enjoy black and white processing and printing.

 

[Jean Noire]

why do you do that(benefits)and what is your favorite formula?

You have had a fair amount of responses here.
The thing that puzzles me is why did you want to know? What are you going to do with the data?

 

[MattKing]

You have had a fair amount of responses here.
The thing that puzzles me is why did you want to know? What are you going to do with the data?

Maybe add more recipes to the third edition of "Way Beyond Monochrome"?

 

[BobD]

In addition to the addvantages already mentioned ...

According to Steve Anchell (Darkroom Cookbook, Film Developing Cookbook, etc) commercial developers often include additives to cope with shelf life and hard/soft water issues. I don't like additives.

I also believe I can be more accurate in weighing ingredients than a commercial manufacturer.

 

[eclarke]

I neglected to answer the bit about my favorite formula. I always make dual sheets so I have a backup and some darkroom options. For film, my pecking order is : first for all films, Germain's Finegrain (can't buy it). For T grain film and ir, my second choice is Fx37 (can't buy it), For TriX, FP4, HP5, and most old fashioned emulsions, a Rodinal clone I call Ianol (can't buy it). I also keep D76H and Pyrocat MC on hand as additional variables. I use Ilford WtFb for printing and my paper developer is a cool tone Ansco 130 which has some variations (can't buy it).
Happily, this has let me try a huge variety of other chemical approaches rather than speculate or rely on forum posts for information..hate not to really know things first hand..


P.S. And it's fun!!

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Maybe add more recipes to the third edition of "Way Beyond Monochrome"?

which would you like to see?

 

[Ole]

why do you do that(benefits)and what is your favorite formula?

Because OF-1 isn't available premade...

 

[ricardo12458]

I happen to have a 40s-era darkroom handbook with formulary. Agfa 47/130 [and a lot in between; in later contexts you may see this being referred to as Ansco 47...it was published just before the Second World War started], Kodak D76/DK50/D52/D72, some Gevaert formulas, and others by companies that no longer exist [what's Haloid?] and still others compounded by the author himself! Haven't bothered to compound any of the formulas yet, but I may just wake up one day and place an order for some of these raw chemicals It also has formulas for certain other chemicals [uranium toner, anyone?] The only problem is......a lot of the units are denominated in grains.....don't think there is a modern scale that measures so accurately....

-R

 

[Philippe-Georges]

I mix from scratch:
Pyro-HD King formula, because it is hard to find in Europe (perhaps in Vienna at Lotus) but absolutely not in Belgium.
E-72 (= Hydrochinon free Dektol) because it does not exist commercially.
Buffered stop bath because it does not exist commercially in Europe.

And, last but not least, I like doing it!

 

[fotch]

............The only problem is......a lot of the units are denominated in grains.....don't think there is a modern scale that measures so accurately....

-R

Isn't that what shooters use for reloading ammo? If so, try one of the mail order sporting goods outfits like Gander Mountain.

 

[dwross]

...The only problem is......a lot of the units are denominated in grains.....don't think there is a modern scale that measures so accurately....

-R

The conversion from grains to grams is straightforward, either by formula or table. At that point, it is the exact same issue as any other small quantity measurement. You make a solution using enough of the chemical that your scale can accurately weigh it, and then use a volume of the solution that delivers the original quantity specified in the recipe. This is the reason to use drops or mls of 1% or 10% solutions.

 

[megzdad81]

I use Michael Smith's Amidol formulae because shipping is getting really expensive, and the Lodima prints come out so nice. I do get a weird floating goopy-looking precipitate after the sodium thiosulfate sits for 24 hours. Tests say it's still good, but I never saw it with Kodak fix--maybe it's just the result of evaporation and the Na-thio coming back out. I'm not a chemist.

 

[cmacd123]

.... and others by companies that no longer exist [what's Haloid?] ....
-R

As I recall, the Haloid Corp of Rochester NY was approached by Young Chester Carlson with his new imaging invetion, and the product was so sucessful, the company changed it's name - To XEROX.

 

[NedL]

I'm already going in about 12 different directions, but reading threads like this makes me realize I will never ever get bored. I can see trying out these neat recipes in my future....

 

[StoneNYC]

I happen to have a 40s-era darkroom handbook with formulary. Agfa 47/130 [and a lot in between; in later contexts you may see this being referred to as Ansco 47...it was published just before the Second World War started], Kodak D76/DK50/D52/D72, some Gevaert formulas, and others by companies that no longer exist [what's Haloid?] and still others compounded by the author himself! Haven't bothered to compound any of the formulas yet, but I may just wake up one day and place an order for some of these raw chemicals It also has formulas for certain other chemicals [uranium toner, anyone?] The only problem is......a lot of the units are denominated in grains.....don't think there is a modern scale that measures so accurately....

-R

Does that Agfa book have color formulas? CN17 or Whatever develops Negative Ultra K film . Also color reversal film like ORWO color film that's transparency film?

I need both formulas to develop some film, I do have a C-41 instruction that supposedly works at 20° temps but I would prefer to use the original formulas.

Thanks


~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Mick Fagan]

I’ve been mixing from raw chemicals for so long now, I would never go back to pre-mixed packets. The control one has, sort of creeps up on you. Plus if stored correctly, shelf life is indefinite; I’m currently using a bottle of Kodak Bromide with a use before 1964 date.

Ansco 135, D72, D76, FX4, FX5B are mostly what I’m currently using; with D76 and Ansco 135 my current go to combination.

Mick.

 

[pentaxpete]

I have been 'mixing my own' since I started in 1951 at the school Photo-Soc and the Chemistry Master showed us how to mix our own developers-- then when I got a job in 1959 as a Photographer in the Civil Service Ministry of Aviation I discovered a room there like an 'Aladdin's Cave' of ex- WWII chemicals all dusty !! I told the Boss I could make up D163 print developer for the Senior Photographers who each had a small darkroom, using 'whole plate' glass negatives and he didn't believe me at first but when I showed him I saved the Department a LOT of money and used up the old chemicals from 1945 !!!

 

[StoneNYC]

Does anyone mix the t-grain developers like DD-X or Tmax? I know they are "proprietary formulas" but has anyone figured them out yet?


~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[BradS]

Does anyone mix the t-grain developers like DD-X or Tmax?

~Stone

Ilford recommend DD-X for all of their films. It is not specific to the Delta / TMAx films.