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Identify mystery sheet film

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bergytone

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I received a packet of 8 x 10 sheet film at an estate sale of a fine art photographer (as well as stacks of usable ilford multigrade paper) that is not in it's box, but in it's black plastic bag. They taped a small part of the box to the bag. I'm wondering if anyone can identify it from this small box label.

I'm going so soup some of it to see if it's fogged, as it may be kind of old. The seller said they had a huge refrigerator they kept film in, so maybe it's got a chance. I suppose throw a scrap in some XTOL for 10 minutes should tell me that.

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RobC

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the notch codes should tell you what film it is. There are numerous websites showing the notch codes for different films.
 

MattKing

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Could it be X-ray film?
 

AgX

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I too guess: rebranded medical X-ray film
 

480sparky

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I'd check for a notch code before I dunk it. If there is one, that will be your best chance of ID'ing it.

Has there ever been any sheet film that is factory marked on the edge like roll film?
 

Wayne

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If there is no notch you'll know it's x-ray film
 

haziz

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No real experience here with film just in a black plastic bag, but I suspect it is ruined (unless it is double or triple bagged). I suspect it it is now effectively exposed/ruined. Paper may survive this abuse but probably not film.

Develop a sheet and see.
 
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bergytone

bergytone

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Thanks all for the replies. It has no notches, so it's probably xray film. I'm going to soup a scrap to see if it's fogged. I have D76, xtol, and ilfosol at my disposal. Any comments on which will work best, and approx how long?
 

bdial

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I am not an X-Ray film user, but I think it needs a more active developer. Dectol or another print developer might be better.
 

Rich Ullsmith

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How about fix one strip in complete darkness, and do the same to another strip exposed to a red safelight. Could be graphic arts film or ortho line film. If a red light doesn't affect it that is probably the answer.
 

Kevin Harding

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I am not an X-Ray film user, but I think it needs a more active developer. Dectol or another print developer might be better.

X-ray film develops quickly and to high contrast. You may wish to try a compensating developer. (Some people use Pyrocat HD 1+1+200 for about six minutes)
 
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