ID11 Mixing problem

[Pepe the Tog]

Hi, is it possible to mix ID11 at a too higher temperature and if so what would the result be.

 

[jovo]

The recommended temperature for mixing ID11 is 120 F. It allows the powders to dissolve completely and relatively quickly. I've never used water hotter than what comes from the tap which is not much more than 120, so I don't know what using boiling water would do though I guess the steam wouldn't be a good thing to inhale. Too cold is more a nemesis than too hot, I think.

Did you use boiling water? What happened?

Oh, welcome to apug Pepe! I'm not sure what a Tog is, but I'm sure you represent the word admirably!

 

[Pepe the Tog]

Did you use boiling water? What happened?
Oh, welcome to apug Pepe! I'm not sure what a Tog is, but I'm sure you represent the word admirably!

Thanks Jovo, A tog on this side of the pond is two things, 1) shortened slang for Photographer. 2) A tog is a person that listens to a certain radio show on the BBC and i fit both definitions. I belive the ID11 was mixed at about 70c/158f. To me the rebates are weak and the resulting prints seem muddy and lack crispness in the tones. The process data was FP4 developed ID11 1:1 at 24c for 6min 50s (8mins minus 15% for automated rotary processor)

 

[Martin Aislabie]

Wow, I have never tried mixing at 70C - for me its way too hot to hold my mixing bottle.

I do mix a little warmer than the prescribed 38C – as it mixes more readily.

However, I have noticed that it oxidises a little more quickly at higher temperatures.

Freshly mixed ID11 should be almost colourless, the more oxidised it is darker it gets.

Others will be able to tell you if 70C causes irreversible damage to the ID11.

However, regarding development times, are you sure the correct development time was used.

The Ilford development chart for FP4/ID11 (1+1) gives 8m @ 50ASA, 11m @ 100ASA & 15min @ 200ASA.

Weak rebates and thin negatives (which can lead to muddy prints) are indicative of lack of film development, so either you have cooked/oxidised your developer or you have not developed the film sufficiently for the exposure given.

Muddy prints are also possible if the print developer has expired – are you sure it is OK (a good print from a good known neg would eliminate this as a possibility)

Martin

 

[Anon Ymous]

Hello Martin;

assuming that Pete shot it at 125 and considering that he developed it at 24C, he did it by the book actually. Mixing at 70C probably killed the developer

 

[Martin Aislabie]

Hello Martin;

assuming that Pete shot it at 125 and considering that he developed it at 24C, he did it by the book actually. Mixing at 70C probably killed the developer

Your right, I missed the 24C bit

Assumption on my part as I do all my dev'ing at 20C

I can develop at 20C all year round - even the summer - well apart from a very few days :rolleyes:

Martin

 

[Pepe the Tog]

The Ilford development chart for FP4/ID11 (1+1) gives 8m @ 50ASA, 11m @ 100ASA & 15min @ 200ASA.

Muddy prints are also possible if the print developer has expired – are you sure it is OK (a good print from a good known neg would eliminate this as a possibility)

Martin

Hi Martin, i think the times you give are for 20c/68f i've just opened a fresh roll of FP4 and its says 8mins, unless Ilford has got the box information wrong again.:confused: The print Dev was fine, fresh from the supplier and mixed fresh no more than 1/2 hr before the print was made and held at a constant 20c/68f by a dishwarmer.

 

[Pepe the Tog]

Just as a secondary point, i'am assuming that the rebate markings for FP4+ should be jet black. Daft i know but then i haven't used it since it became plus!

 

[Martin Aislabie]

No - rebates should be dark grey

Martin

 

[Pepe the Tog]

Thanks Martin