I tried split grade again, and filed my carrier...

Truth is it probably makes no difference which way you start, I accept that. But for me, I find it easier to get the contrast "right" going with grade 5 first. I can see the blacks coming up and I usually select the point just before the blacks go solid. Its kinda like, "ok thats the contrast fixed, now lets get the exposure right".

Its also very useful to be able to burn in a cloudy sky with grade 5 to give a bit of definition to edges, and as you say, control the mid tones by dodging etc.

I saw a good article in Photo techniques some time back where a print was made ("scientifically") by both split and normal grade printing and tones over the print then measured. It did indeed prove that single grades will do anything that split grade does. I still find it easier to split grade though!!

Fran

I got a chuckle, because we are so similar, but backwards! I set the grade zero, and then think, "OK that's the basic exposure, now let's set the contrast right". I have not tried it your way so I cannot have any opinion about which is better. I also like a very short burn of the sky with high contrast... it brings out the edges of cloud shades, just as you say. I burn and dodge with the low contrast exposure too. I like how it is possible to pay attention to different parts of the picture and vary local contrast.

It's been 30 years since I printed before, but I do have a memory of getting frustrated juggling graded paper contrast and exposure. I like split grade printing too, even though I fell into it more out of necessity if I want to use VC paper. ( My understanding is that the normal VC filters have uneven steps and are hard to use with my enlarger. ) There's a certain kind of logic to it that I find appealing.

Ned

That's exactly what I mean.

You know, text forums are a real problem, because you can not feel the energy of the person at the other side. I my case i mend it positive. I only have put my experience of 15 years of analog work in text. Sorry if it was misspelled for you.

When making test strips for split printing the order does make a difference. When making the final print the order makes no difference.

In high contrast prints (#5 exposure > #00 exposure) the #5 shadow exposure effects the highlights, but the #00 highlight exposure has little to no effect on the shadows.

In low contrast prints (#00 exposure > #5 exposure) the #00 highlight exposure effects the shadows, but the #5 shadow exposure has little to no effect on the highlights.

So, for high contrast prints make the #5 test strip first to determine the shadow exposure, then make the #00 test strip to determine the highlights.

For low contrast prints make the #00 test strip first to determine the highlight exposure, then make the #5 test strip to determine the shadows.

This is the reason for the perpetual debate about which test-strip filter to use first. Those who develop/shoot high contrast negatives swear that the #00 test strip must be done first, and those who develop/shoot low contrast negatives state with equal conviction that the #5 test strip must be done first. They are both right and they are both wrong.

See the application note on split grade on the Darkroom Automation web site [url]http://www.darkroomautomation.com/support/appnotesgmeasured.pdf[/URL], starting on page 3 "HOW SPLIT GRADE WORKS"

What Nicholas wrote makes sense to me. My negatives have been evolving to fit my printing.. with longer development times, just as he says.

Cheers!

+1


Fran