I use Dektol 1:2 and develop "to completion", usually 3 minutes. this gives me solid blacks on any paper I've used. It also shows up any fog on old paper or poorly stored paper.I've been using Dektol for paper development for 40 years. I was taught to, and have always used it, straight without dilution. A typical exposure for me is 4-6 seconds at f8. If I dilute at the recommended 1:2, do I adjust my exposure time or do I allow for a longer development time (which is usually around 30-60 seconds). From what I've been reading, the 1:2 working ratio will allow for deeper blacks and contrast. Is this correct?
I use Dektol 1:2 and develop "to completion", usually 3 minutes. this gives me solid blacks on any paper I've used. It also shows up any fog on old paper or poorly stored paper.
Old habits die hard. If you like the results you have been getting for 40 years, why change now?
Hah! I was just about to edit, my exposure times are often 30 to 60 seconds to allow for burning & dodging, especially with 8x10 contacts. It's possible with a lower wattage bulb in the enlarger, and I like to use my enlarging lenses at 5.6 as diffraction comes in at f:8 on most of mine, which are a rather motley assortment leaning heavily to uncoated Wollensaks. Yes they do a remarkable job being Aviar types, very very sharp.
Try it. I use Dektol at room temp., I could maybe shorten the time, but you can't really overdevelop paper.I don't think I necessarily get deep blacks, more like dark grays. There is opportunity for improvement. If simply going 1:2 with a longer development period yields better blacks I'll be happy that I've made the change.
My problem was a bit different than yours. While I used Dektol at 1:2 dil., I would yank the print when it looked right, to me, under the safelight. Sometimes 30 sec., sometimes 1 minute. I was visiting a professional friend (a graduate of Art Center in Los Angeles) in his darkroom printing one of my negatives and developing the print in Dektol 1:2, yanking the print as I usually did. When the pro. looked vat the print, he said:" you might have a good print there if you left it in the developer until it finished developing". I made another print, left it in the developer for the recommended for 2.5 minutes. After the print was processed, I looked at it under the white light and was dumbfounded. It was beautiful. Rich blacks, everything was there. I have been using 2.5 to 3 minutes ever since. If I had not had the error of my ways pointed to me, I might still be yanking under-developed prints from the developer for the past 50 years......Regards!..I did adjust the exposure time to better match the new development time by making test prints.I've been using Dektol for paper development for 40 years. I was taught to, and have always used it, straight without dilution. A typical exposure for me is 4-6 seconds at f8. If I dilute at the recommended 1:2, do I adjust my exposure time or do I allow for a longer development time (which is usually around 30-60 seconds). From what I've been reading, the 1:2 working ratio will allow for deeper blacks and contrast. Is this correct?
I've been using Dektol for paper development for 40 years. I was taught to, and have always used it, straight without dilution. A typical exposure for me is 4-6 seconds at f8. If I dilute at the recommended 1:2, do I adjust my exposure time or do I allow for a longer development time (which is usually around 30-60 seconds). From what I've been reading, the 1:2 working ratio will allow for deeper blacks and contrast. Is this correct?
I've been using Dektol for paper development for 40 years. I was taught to, and have always used it, straight without dilution. A typical exposure for me is 4-6 seconds at f8. If I dilute at the recommended 1:2, do I adjust my exposure time or do I allow for a longer development time (which is usually around 30-60 seconds). From what I've been reading, the 1:2 working ratio will allow for deeper blacks and contrast. Is this correct?
+1Try it. I use Dektol at room temp., I could maybe shorten the time, but you can't really overdevelop paper.
gary, have you played with contrast grades, either with paper or filtration, as an element in your process?
Selenium toner got rid of it (Portriga Rapid 111 and Ilford Gallerie, both graded) for me. I used Dektol 1:3 for 3 minutes.Dektol always gave me a ugly greenish color to the paper. I loved Aga & now Ilford developers.
I don't think I necessarily get deep blacks, more like dark grays. There is opportunity for improvement. If simply going 1:2 with a longer development period yields better blacks I'll be happy that I've made the change.
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