It's a lot easier to add a warming filter to the current E100 Ektachome than to cool down the old one X version. Of course, in certain cases one might be able to shoot both regular and warmed versions, especially if your camera had interchangeable roll film backs, or if you used a view camera accepting individual sheet film holders. But don't hold your breath for a warm option becoming available again. Today's E100 is very similar in hue palette to the previous E100G.
Today's current Ektachrome
Yes, I guess one could say 'ole 100G, or even "Elitechrome" is today's Ektachrome
It's a lot easier to add a warming filter to the current E100 Ektachome than to cool down the old one X version. Of course, in certain cases one might be able to shoot both regular and warmed versions, especially if your camera had interchangeable roll film backs, or if you used a view camera accepting individual sheet film holders. But don't hold your breath for a warm option becoming available again. Today's E100 is very similar in hue palette to the previous E100G.
Just curiosity: Does todays's chrome come with filter-per-batch recommendations from Kodak? In ancient times it always did and the advice was critically good (unless one was using a mediocre lab).
Thanks Matt. So... you're saying variability comes mostly from decline in utility of chromes?
My impression has always been that few photographers could distinguish between cyan, blue, and green.
Matt and Drew: Thanks for two remarkably good responses.
For my context, I worked for Faulkner Color Lab in San Francisco. Our clients were almost all professional photographers. I was responsible for developing a high-end art-photographer clientele as well, and making that profitable (we raised prices bigtime). I did learn to accurately "call" colors as well as density using conventional photo terms. Our half-dozen enlarger-using printers were comparably skilled. We had shoot-outs with Don Faulkner, who everybody recognized as the very best (and had to, since he owned the lab). We also had several long-time machine printers (for weddings, mostly) and they made highly personalized judgement calls when it seemed important to augment electronic advice.
The visual skill set I developed at Faulkner, decades ago, have been important to my inkjet printing...
Gel filters have serious disadvantages in the field. They are susceptible to moisture, trap dirt, grime, and fingerprints, easily get crease marks and scratches.
Glass CC filters were available, but were often inaccurate in the lower densities related to film batch balancing, and only single-coated at best. Almost nobody carried them. And you mentioned the problem with polarizers often being not neutral. I only used polarizers in relation to copystand work, and never in the field - I loved the reflections in nature. But relative to cross-polarization in the studio, I had to offset the cumulative greenish bias of the polarizing filter on the lens and polarizing sheets on the copy lights with a 5cc magenta filter.
https://www.yoshikazu-shirakawa.com/en/Don't get me wrong. Some of my favorite coffee table books contain the work of color photographers who were addicted to polarizers for certain reasons, not necessarily color saturation itself. One example is Yoshikazu Shirakawa, whose famous Himalayan work often encountered the extreme glare of snow and glaciers. But so have I, without polarizers. And great work has been done before polarizers were ever invented. So a lot has to do with personal style. Yet it is also important to get a good handle on how your shots are going to be specifically reproduced. A competent slide or chrome or color negative is just a starting point.
I find a polarizing filter used at/near 90 degrees to the sun an absolute must for all outdoor shooting of transparency films, especially when it's $1 per frame, otherwise, I don't know how others are getting those "saturated" colors.
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