I overexposed 160s at 25

[srmcnamara]

that's almost 3 stops.

now what?

I'd really prefer to be able to make optical prints but I understand if I'll have to go the hybrid route.


Should I pull or should I develop normally and just try to print through it?

 

[2F/2F]

I would say that you will be able to get pictures for sure, and that they will, in fact, be easier to get with analog printing than they will be with digital printing. At least it wasn't almost three stops of underexposure. You can pull color neg 1/2 stop without any issues...one stop if you can deal with a little bit wonky color in your shots. It will help a little. The negs will be printable, but grainier than normal, the contrast will be a bit different than you are used to (nothing but straight line, maybe with some weird-looking compression of the highest tones in some shots), and loss of saturation (on an already low-saturation film). Who knows? The film at one stop over should be perfectly fine. If you were using an in-camera reflected meter and shooting bright subjects, you were underexposing your negs anyhow, so that would help you out some more. The 1/2 stop pull will help you as well. Just be glad you were not shooting positives, such as transparencies or digital.

 

[srmcnamara]

Thank you. Any chance that it will fit in with prints from more normally exposed negs?


I am definitely glad for the wonders of negative film. I was using a borrowed Mamiya 7 which explains how resetting the meter slipped my mind (and how it was set at 25 to begin with).

 

[hrst]

You may get even better analog prints than normal. It depends on what you like. Contrast will be lower and it will work quite well with today's high-contrast papers, but, the highlights can be quite low in contrast compared to midtones... IMO, 3 stop overexposure won't add grain too much yet. 1 stop clearly removes grain. 3 stops may add a little bit, if you boost contrast using Ultra Endura or digital processes, but probably not with normal contrast paper.

Post your results!.

 

[Mike1234]

Some people actually make a habit of overexposing 2-3 f/stops especially for "high key" work. No need to panic, you'll be fine unless you're concerned about retaining maximum highlight detail in contrasty scenes. If that's the case then have the film pulled 2 stops and print hybridly... just don't tell anyone here on APUG. SSHHH... it's your little secret!!!

 

[srmcnamara]

well I have been successfully reassured. Now I'm just upset that all my frames are likely blurry from the slow shutter speeds.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

that's almost 3 stops.

now what?

I'd really prefer to be able to make optical prints but I understand if I'll have to go the hybrid route.


Should I pull or should I develop normally and just try to print through it?

As others have stated already, no problem. I made good prints from negatives overexposed by 6 stops (Kodak had a sample at none time, showing that 10+ stops are workable).

Look at the sample in the file attached and notice the beautiful shadow detail in the print from the overexposed negative.

 

[2F/2F]

have the film pulled 2 stops and print hybridly... just don't tell anyone here on APUG. SSHHH... it's your little secret!!!

I'd try pulling color neg. film two stops before you recommend it. I would also try to find a lab that will do it! Even if you could convince one to do so, they'd have to guess at a time, and could certainly not guarantee good results.

I also don't see how a hybrid process would allow one to pull any more than one could with a totally analog process, which seemed to me to be the gist of your statement. A two stop pull of color negative film would not provide a negative that could be made to look "normal" by any means. Even with digital, you need to start with enough raw material in order to "fix" something, and a two stop pull will not provide that, due to the crazy and mismatched effect it will have on the density and color of the film's multiple layers. In general, your best bet with an underdeveloped color neg is to print it as a black and white print (using analog methods or doing it digitally).

Additionally, how specifically do you suggest accomplishing the 2 stop pull? The C-41 development time is 3:15 - 3:30 minutes. I develop at 2:55 - 3:00 to get a 1/2 stop pull. IME, any further takes it beyond the realm of possible correction (or controllability with time, for that matter, as the time is so short).

With color neg, it is way better to just be two stops over than to try to pull two stops. I would go ahead and pull the 1/2 stop, but no more.....except perhaps in the situation where "kind-of-but-not-really-perfect" color is acceptable, in which you could get away with pulling one stop.

 

[Mike1234]

^^^ It's a matter of tonal and contrast control without blocking of highlights.

 

[2F/2F]

^^^ It's a matter of tonal and contrast control without blocking of highlights.

erm....with color negs it is also a matter of COLOR; a matter of getting all the layers to match in density within certain parameters in order to obtain raw material that will give the ability to predictably alter color balance, either with an enlarger or with a digital file.

Just do as I suggested: pull a color neg two stops, try to print it...then come suggest it on the Internet.

 

[dwdmguy]

I'm sure with most Fuji Films 3stops are fine. It's hard to blow out the highlights on the pro line of films and a lot of folk, myself included, do this on purpose. This film should bring you 9 to 10 stops of Latt. and you very well may have found a new Style for you. I think you'll like the Sat as well.

 

[Athiril]

I've pulled 14 stops in C41 before, if youre doing home chemistry there is not much of a problem.

 

[2F/2F]

I've pulled 14 stops in C41 before

No; you have not...unless by "pull" you mean something other than contraction.

If you mean that you have been able to record a scene with 14 stops of dynamic range, then of course you can do that with color negative film...but this is not called pulling.

Home vs. lab chemistry has no bearing whatsoever on the amount of contraction that can be applied to a color neg.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

...Home vs. lab chemistry has no bearing whatsoever on the amount of contraction that can be applied to a color neg.

Home processing does.

 

[2F/2F]

C-41 films can only take a certain amount of underdevelopment, regardless of whether it is being done in a dip and dunk machine or in a hand tank. Sure, labs will pull C-41 beyond 1/2 stop if you order them to do it, and sure, you can pull beyond 1/2 stop yourself. However, there is a point with C-41 beyond which one cannot achieve standard results in color and/or density, regardless of how it is processed. Hand processing makes development modifications cheaper to try out, but does not make good results more possible.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

C-41 films can only take a certain amount of underdevelopment, regardless of whether it is being done in a dip and dunk machine or in a hand tank. Sure, labs will pull C-41 beyond 1/2 stop if you order them to do it, and sure, you can pull beyond 1/2 stop yourself. However, there is a point with C-41 beyond which one cannot achieve standard results in color and/or density, regardless of how it is processed. Hand processing makes development modifications cheaper to try out, but does not make good results more possible.

You are right. Big difference between color and B&W when it comes to C41 processing.