I need a refresher on RA-4 products...

[Photo Engineer]

Any stop of Acetic Acid at 1 - 2% is usable including indicator stop. OTOH, the problems I have heard of relate to Citric Acid. I have no personal experience with CA stops, nor have I seen documented evidence, just internal comments at EK about CA stops and color products. In fact, CA Stabilizers were once used and the norm, but the process also used an Acetic Acid stop.

PE

 

[hpulley]

Thanks for that. Perhaps I'll try with and without CA to see if I need it. j39 says a stop bath or a wash is optional between dev and blix, I'll see.

Anyone know how big ~275 and ~600 foot rolls of paper are? I don't fancy cutting them so I really hope I can still find a supply of pre-cut paper that I like though for snapshot stuff my wife actually prefers smaller prints in the album so perhaps a nice 4-5" wide roll would be good if I could figure out a good way to cut it in dim safelight. Cutting 8x10 in half is probably doable, a couple of 4x5" prints should do especially from 6x7 or 126.

 

[Photo Engineer]

I seem to remember another thread here with a similar subject and more information.

PE

 

[hrst]

Stop indeed is optional if you can get the developer away quickly as well as possible. For example, with a blade in a processor. Stop is a sure bet in tray or drum processing. Of course you can try without it and it may be fine...

 

[scarletbegonias]

Mr. Hardy-Vallee, The problem with Crystal Archive Type II is that it stinks. It's very low contrast and saturation, it's borderline impossible to get clean whites (for me), and it's very thin and cheaply packaged. I blew $300 on it and the only thing I can think of using it for is lining bird cages (and converting color photographers to digital). Don't waste your time with it; buy rolls and cut them down.

Larry, Colorado

 

[hpulley]

Got my Kodak 10L dev and blix RA-4 chems today but I don't have any paper yet! Hmm, wonder if I can get some off the photo lab... otherwise I'll have to wait until next week. Henrys didn't come through, looks like I'll have to order some Fuji Crystal Archive II and Kodak Ektacolor from B&H as my Endura from Cali won't be here for a few weeks at the speed of the USPS...

 

[mikecnichols]

Slightly off topic, but I just printed and processed a print and it came out plain white. What might have caused this?

 

[mikecnichols]

Slightly off topic, but I just printed and processed a print and it came out plain white. What might have caused this?

I am guessing the developer is exhausted. I ran one more print through and the same thing.....made fresh chemistry.

 

[hrst]

Either you don't expose your paper or you have something else than developer, or it is very badly exhausted. It does not happen suddenly.

 

[mikecnichols]

Either you don't expose your paper or you have something else than developer, or it is very badly exhausted. It does not happen suddenly.

It'd been three weeks since I used it and I mixed it in January. Thanks for the info. I mixed new chemistry last night after a second print test and will print tonight.

 

[hrst]

It'd been three weeks since I used it and I mixed it in January. Thanks for the info. I mixed new chemistry last night after a second print test and will print tonight.

I really doubt that would be the problem. I have used RA-4 developer more than a year old, left occasionally in trays for more than 24 hours and used for many many prints all the way. It just does not go bad that easily.

 

[mikecnichols]

I really doubt that would be the problem. I have used RA-4 developer more than a year old, left occasionally in trays for more than 24 hours and used for many many prints all the way. It just does not go bad that easily.

It is 500ml that I've used 5 times (about 35-40 prints). I was mainly reusing to test the chemistry's limits and also to get better acquainted with RA4 printing. I was trying to test a couple of prints before I made new stock for final processing as I was changing from 8x10 to 5x7 and wanted to make sure that my filtration and exposure times were going to be the same. That was really the only change, and I don't think the exposure time would have been that much different from the 8x10 exposure, but I could be wrong. I'll try the new chemistry later today.

 

[mikecnichols]

It was definitely the chemistry. My sister is here, and so I was showing her the process for paper with the fresh chemistry. Worked like a charm. Same filtration and same time as my 8x10.

 

[hpulley]

Thanks for the advice everyone! This is fun, I'm so pleased to be making real enlarged color prints again.

So far I've just tried the expired 8x10" 2009 Endura paper as I wasn't sure about cutting down the 575' roll in the dark just yet. Love the results though I'll be tweaking things for some time I'm sure.


Farm RA-4 print (pe) by Harry Pulley, on Flickr


Garden RA-4 print (pe) by Harry Pulley, on Flickr


Haybales RA-4 print (pe) by Harry Pulley, on Flickr


Halle RA-4 print (pec) by Harry Pulley, on Flickr

 

[brucemuir]

Henry, yes RA4 is easy and the prints look great.

Try adding 5-10 points of yellow to your prints if these scans are representative of the actual test print color balance.

You will need to add some exposure also but not much.
Balancing corrections will come second nature after a little experience.

I'm using some expired Supra Endura sheets and also a fresher ROLL of Kodak Edge, 8"x610'
The roll is inside a brown paper wrapper (inside a box) and the box is about 14-18 inches square.
It maybe weights 5-10 lbs.

Sorry for the Imperial measurements.

 

[David Lyga]

For what it's worth: I use the Kodak Dev/Repl RT (roller transport) (I buy from PDIsupply.com in Rochester, NY). The last time I bought some was back in 2007. I buy it in 25 Gallon sizes and I preserve it indefinitely (naysayers will never believe this but that is their collective problem: I have some that I have been monitoring for 12 years and it is as good as new).

Here is what you have to do: Parts A and B are vulnerable to oxidation (C is an extremely alkaline mixture and does not need oxidation protection). Either pour the A and B (SEPARATELY!) into either glass or high density clear plastic bottles (Gatorade, most sodas, juice, these containers are EVERYWHERE and do not 'breathe'). The problem is filling them up ENTIRELY to the brim. You can use glass marbles to take up the slack and I've found those tiny (50ml) liquor bottles extremely useful (oddly the ones with the metal caps work best; the ones with the plastic caps sometimes fail, but for the larger size bottles (ie, 500ml) the plastic caps provide a perfect seal).

You have two options: either do as I said, above, keeping the components separate, or actually mix the whole batch and store that way, but ALWAYS filling to the very brim. If you have the storage area this will probably be the best way to go.

But if you keep the components separate, as far as part C goes, I found out the hard way that, in its pure state, it will actually soften the walls of these clear, high density bottles and be unwise to store this way. Either keep 'C' in its original container or store in glass (need not be filled to the brim).

I actually feel sorry that so many out there are challenged to make these chemicals last literally forever. Few will heed. That becomes not my problem but I did take the time to reiterate what I have said many times in the past. The rest is up to you. If you have queries either email me HERE: david33x@yahoo.com or call (Philadelphia) 215.569.4949. 'Nuff said. - David Lyga

 

[brucemuir]

David,
I'm finding the RT version extremely robust as to keeping and capacities also.

 

[hpulley]

Henry, yes RA4 is easy and the prints look great.

Try adding 5-10 points of yellow to your prints if these scans are representative of the actual test print color balance.

You will need to add some exposure also but not much.
Balancing corrections will come second nature after a little experience.

I'm using some expired Supra Endura sheets and also a fresher ROLL of Kodak Edge, 8"x610'
The roll is inside a brown paper wrapper (inside a box) and the box is about 14-18 inches square.
It maybe weights 5-10 lbs.

Sorry for the Imperial measurements.

Thanks for your suggestions. Yes, looking this morning I think I needed to add more yellow, you're right. Next session, hopefully tonight! Working in the dark and then turning the lights on to view the prints and judge for color balance seems difficult, especially since my overhead lamps are flourecent by the trays but tungsten over the wash.

My long roll is in a brown paper wrapper and then a black bag as usual I guess. I'm just trying to figure out if I should get a cutter or use scissors for cutting the roll. I've got some old boxes and bags to store the cut pieces so I just need an evening to cut 50-100 sheets off for now.

Need to try the Crystal Archive II as well since that is the only one which seems to be easy to obtain.

 

[hpulley]

For what it's worth: I use the Kodak Dev/Repl RT (roller transport) (I buy from PDIsupply.com in Rochester, NY). The last time I bought some was back in 2007. I buy it in 25 Gallon sizes and I preserve it indefinitely (naysayers will never believe this but that is their collective problem: I have some that I have been monitoring for 12 years and it is as good as new).

Here is what you have to do: Parts A and B are vulnerable to oxidation (C is an extremely alkaline mixture and does not need oxidation protection). Either pour the A and B (SEPARATELY!) into either glass or high density clear plastic bottles (Gatorade, most sodas, juice, these containers are EVERYWHERE and do not 'breathe'). The problem is filling them up ENTIRELY to the brim. You can use glass marbles to take up the slack and I've found those tiny (50ml) liquor bottles extremely useful (oddly the ones with the metal caps work best; the ones with the plastic caps sometimes fail, but for the larger size bottles (ie, 500ml) the plastic caps provide a perfect seal).

You have two options: either do as I said, above, keeping the components separate, or actually mix the whole batch and store that way, but ALWAYS filling to the very brim. If you have the storage area this will probably be the best way to go.

But if you keep the components separate, as far as part C goes, I found out the hard way that, in its pure state, it will actually soften the walls of these clear, high density bottles and be unwise to store this way. Either keep 'C' in its original container or store in glass (need not be filled to the brim).

I actually feel sorry that so many out there are challenged to make these chemicals last literally forever. Few will heed. That becomes not my problem but I did take the time to reiterate what I have said many times in the past. The rest is up to you. If you have queries either email me HERE: david33x@yahoo.com or call (Philadelphia) 215.569.4949. 'Nuff said. - David Lyga

Thanks! I'm a scotch drinker so I do have some 50mL sample bottles around, maybe even some 100-200mL. There is some space at the top of the original plastic bottles that they come in but perhaps they are nitrogen purged at the factory? I might try marbles instead and leave them in their original containers.

I intend to mix it up .5-1L at a time, maybe even 1 gallon at a time. No problem with the imperial, we use both really (though I hate US vs. English fluid ounces!).

 

[brucemuir]

I tried a boxcutter and template to 10-12 inches but that got cumbersome although it does work.

I ended up with a Dahle cutter, I think it was just under 50 bux usd. It's not a REAL nice one but it's fine for now.
The cutting surface is a bit short so I made cardboard extensions to the length Im cutting and I can feel the edge in the dark.

I'm using a 4 blade easel so I just trim the corners square afterwards and dont worry about being too precise in the dark.
I sometimes just use the larger border for notes.

610 ft is alot to play with although the Supra does look way better than Edge.

I used to use Fuji CA about 8 years back. I think it was called PII but I was using a tapletop processor @ warmer temps so IDK how it would do in trays a room temp.

I will probably have to investigate the current fuji offerings at some point.

 

[hpulley]

I'm using an easel too so I'm not worried about how clean the cuts are, as long as I have the exposure area I want.

The Endura and Kodak Ektacolor RA stuff works fine at room temperature, I was pleased. It was 33C initially but after it cooled I used longer times and it still seemed to work fine so I didn't bother refilling the 12x16" trays that I'd placed my 8x10" trays in to keep them warm. I'll just use it at room temp if I can or does this affect the color balance at all? It didn't seem to affect the balance, just the development time.

 

[hrst]

Both Supra Endura and "plain" Fuji Crystal Archive work for me at 23 deg.C for 2 minutes or 2'30 with Kodak RA-4 replenisher without starter. I haven't even tried higher temperatures to see if there is any difference in filter pack.

In addition, I find that Supra Endura and Fuji CA are very close in filtration, about 5 units in both magenta and yellow.

 

[hpulley]

What about Fuji films vs. Kodak films? So far I'm finding NPH is redder than Portra so I need to change the filtration based upon that as well. Will be printing Reala and Ektar shortly.

 

[brucemuir]

Yes the film base/orange mask is a bit different even between NC and VC of the same "brand" of film.
Corrections are always a bit different to start but I shoot alot of short dsted (alright expired) film so I'm always testing for color balance anyway. Not an issue considering I got that roll of 610 feet for around 35 usd delivered off ePrey.

I always evaluate under window/daylight. This isn't optimal but it's waaay better than a safelight or tungsten bulb. They had a daylight viewing station where I first tried RA4.

I've used that RT stuff down to 62-64f without issue.

 

[hpulley]

Yes, most of what I printed last night was expired film developed in past capacity Tetenal, printed on expired paper so I guess I shouldn't be surprised that it isn't standard filter pack.

I got my long roll for under $30 so again, no complaints.

Daylight viewing station? I wonder if I could replace my flourecent tubes with something that would give me daylight balance? Must be, I'll check the store.

How long do you develop at 65F? In the dead of winter that's the temp I'll be at in the basement at night unless I bump up the thermostat.