I didn't catch that just like Roger, I read "Portra400" hah! Anyway I think ektar100 would be a better bet for non-portraits and closer to slide, but feel free to experiment. Why don't you shoot 35mm and test it before jumping up.
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Since I picked up a 4x5 25-27 years ago I've never been able to get excited about 35mm, and don't have good 35 equipment anyway. I'll go with a mix of 4x5 and 120 while I learn the process. Its hard enough to see those with middle aged eyes!
I'm a committed b+w addictbut still enjoy shooting the odd bit of colour every now and then. The results from Portra 400 in my pinhole camera were amazing-the guy at the lab was asking me how I did them! 35mm and MF are great but contacts from LF are definitely top of the pile IME [not to mention the trannies].
I gave up color when e6 started to disappear, I had shot slide for years because I could not find reliable color print processing after Kodak got out of the processing business years ago. I went into BW hardcore, built a BW darkroom (I'm on my 3rd), calibrated my process and learned how to get what I wanted on the print from the time I exposed the negative. But color, like an old girlfriend, kept tempting me. I have just been trying out Ektar, Portra160 and Portra400. Ektar and the 160 are too much for the color paper generally available. The dynamic range of the paper is too shallow compared to the film so the prints do not look natural. 400 though shows promise. Prints on CA from the lab look more natural, especially people indoors using flash. Unfortunately, the only way I will know for sure is to print them myself.
I think that, for color, I may have to go over to the dark side. For some stuff I was recently selling I put a micro Nikkor on my daughters d3200 and was surprised at the quality of the output. Damn, that may mean a stupid expensive digi back for the Blad or an expensive D Nikon body for the lenses I already have. Damn. I think I hate color.
The cat's meow for wonderful grain and lovely color was Agfachrome 1000, which was available in both 35mm and 120. Prior to that there was
a remarkable grainy pre-E6 Agfachrome available in sheets which had an adjacent grain structure kinda like Autochrome. But it would pick up
certain warm earthtones and true fluorescent algae and lichen colors in nature like no other color film since. The greens were muted. Another
interesting but less color-accurate film was high speed Scotchchrome. Pixelization/Fauxtowhatever just doesn't have the same feel.
although not ideal because it will only do 4 at a time, maybe I will start out using this for developing the negatives. Digging through the old boxes I found a Unicolor print drum:
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/unicolor/
I dunno. I use 1 liter widemouth plastic Diet Pepsi bottles for most working solutions myself. Some have gray caps and some have white. I also have white-capped Aquafina spring water bottles that are the same size and shape. You can squeeze the air out of them and I've had solutions last for years, though if you do a lot of squeezing its good to replace them now and then because they eventually develop leaks along the crinkle lines. But they'll still last years.
Don't believe them. PET is #1 is soda pop type and bottled water bottles and it works great for many people.
I'm not inclined to argue with Ron who has forgotten more chemistry in the last week than I'll ever know. But I have never seen him say that in many threads on this. Here's a recent one
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
I have squeezed PETE bottles right now with Ilfochrome chemicals in them that have completely almost remained airless 3 years. (I don't plan to use the chemicals, btw, and I have them stored in a bucket in case of a leak). I have also stored phenidone working solutions in them for over a year years and they worked fine. I used them for 15 years for Ilfochrome and never had anything go bad (I disposed of chems when they reach their stated lifespan)
Have on hand an 81A filter for overcast skies, and maybe an 81C for deep blue shade.
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