Today I went to a local estate sale and came across a Nikon F2 photomic. I originally didn't see the case it was in and was only going to buy an 80-200 f4.5 lens, but then noticed the case. It has the DP-1 finder and came with a 55/3.5 micro and Nikkor-Q 200mm f4. The case also has a Nikon F eye level finder and waist level finder. I have had other Nikon F bodies, but not the F2. I just finished cleaning up the body and the lenses and putting batteries in it, and will load it with some film this week. I am looking forward to using it and can understand why it has such a following. It is an impressive camera. The only issue I have found is that the slower shutter speeds don't work properly. It came with a J focusing screen and an A screen which is in it. Does anyone here favor one screen over the other, and if so, why?
I just bought my first Nikon F2
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I bought my first F2S in 1973
. We always put in P screens, same as A only split image on diagonal. This was the so called "Apollo" screen. I have a D3 and D5 Nikon digital cameras, I can still feel the F/F2 in the "single digit" digital bodies. I paid 550 USD for my F2S body, that was big money. Get a 50 1.4. Shutter speed problem probably needs CLA. I would shoot it the way it is. That zoom was only a dream, cost more that the camera.I paid 500 bucks for a flawless late F prism. It's pretty on my Apollo F. In bounced around a bit good shape these sell for 125 bucks. Pretty just means it was never used. I have a plain prism for one of my F2 bodies, not as pretty as the F prism.
A small gold mine. Congratulations!
Fantastic camera! I have had the F2A (DP11 finder) for several years now and love it. Also an F w/eye level prism and my newest love the F4S.
As far as screens, the A with the split rangefinder is fast to focus but has a tendency to black-out with micro and telephoto lenses (always hated that).
The J has the microprism that snaps into focus but is slower and more deliberate to use. The good part is that is does not black-out.
Both have their place and use and are easy to change so use accordingly.
I also use the B which is a matte/fresnel with 5 and 12mm reference circles. Slow depending on how good ones eyesight is since the better it is the better good focus can be decided.
For macro with the 6x chimney finder I use the M screen, not for general use at all.
Enjoy your F2 but get the slow speeds checked. Exercise them to see if they free up...but don't count on it.
As far as screens, the A with the split rangefinder is fast to focus but has a tendency to black-out with micro and telephoto lenses (always hated that).
The J has the microprism that snaps into focus but is slower and more deliberate to use. The good part is that is does not black-out.
Both have their place and use and are easy to change so use accordingly.
I also use the B which is a matte/fresnel with 5 and 12mm reference circles. Slow depending on how good ones eyesight is since the better it is the better good focus can be decided.
For macro with the 6x chimney finder I use the M screen, not for general use at all.
Enjoy your F2 but get the slow speeds checked. Exercise them to see if they free up...but don't count on it.
As stated above: I also prefer the P screen over the A and K, the P has the cross hair lines and the angled split circle makes it easier to use.
I also use the E screen, matte/Fresnel with composition lines.
http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/michaeliu/cameras/shared/ff2screens.htm
I also use the E screen, matte/Fresnel with composition lines.
http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/michaeliu/cameras/shared/ff2screens.htm
I have a complete set of Nikon F and F2 view screens and a couple of Beattie screens. When I was young with good eyesight, I preferred the “B” screen for general shooting. As my eyesight deteriorated, I found it easier to accurately focus with the “A” screen. For astrophotography, I prefer the “M” screen.
I use other screens when the circumstances warrant. For example, if I am doing a lot of 35mm architectural work, I will use the grid lines on the “E” or “R” screens.
Nikon F2 screens by Narsuitus, on Flickr
I use other screens when the circumstances warrant. For example, if I am doing a lot of 35mm architectural work, I will use the grid lines on the “E” or “R” screens.
Nikon F2 screens by Narsuitus, on Flickr
I loaded some film in mine today, but did not have time to take any shots. I sold the eye level finder on ebay and got more than what I paid for the whole lot of equipment. Now I can enjoy the camera without my wife giving me the " You bought another camera?" look. I also have the waist level finder and 55 micro on ebay for sale, but will keep the F2 and the 200 f4.
Uh-oh. Looks like the Nikon F2 Porn Virus has struck.
Obscene!
Ok, here are a few pics of my new to me F2. It is not as pretty as some pictured, but I consider myself lucky to have come across it. The lens on it is the 55/3.5 micro I am selling. I have a 55/2.8 ais so there is no reason to keep two micros.
You won't get anything for it, so might as well keep it. It's a fine lens.
Ive just been given a Nikon f2 with the Dp1 viewfinder and a selection of lenses. Never used 35mm before, always used MF and 4x5.
I havent got used to the shutter know yet, it feels quite high up with it been close to the top of the viewfinder.
How accurate are the meters in these, any tips on metering with them ?
ian
I havent got used to the shutter know yet, it feels quite high up with it been close to the top of the viewfinder.
How accurate are the meters in these, any tips on metering with them ?
ian
The meters are good, standard 60/40 center-weighted meter pattern. It's not uncommon to find DP-1 meters giving inaccurate readings or with erratic needles, as most of them are about 40 years old. There are plenty of repairers who can service these so that they function like new, but one of the best is Sover Wong in the U.K. If The meter needs service, send it to him and it'll be good for another 20 years at least.
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I have a number of F2 cameras in various states of repair. The one in the best condition has a DP-3 finder with a dent on top. It still seems to meter correctly. Unless I need a shutter speed higher than 1/1000 or a different focusing screen, I would rather use a Nikkormat FT2 or FT3. The Canon F-1/F-1n/F-1N cameras are more to my liking and are less bulky. In his book on using and collecting SLR cameras, Ivor Matanle mentions that many F2 cameras have been used professionally and may not have much life left in them unless they are thoroughly overhauled. Just based on the number of F2 cameras I have, I think that's right. The F3 has a different feel and I do not like the position of the shutter button on the F. I might like using an F4 as a manual focus camera but I have plenty of other Nikon models to enjoy. These include the FE, FE2, FG, N2000, N2020, N8008S, N90S and Pronea models.
About 15 years ago I checked out a F2, F3, and a F5 on a gray card they were all within a 1/3rd of a stop. These old beasts are getting old, but it's easy to check out with a gray card on a sunny day.
Fortunately, Sover Wong also provides Cds cell replacement with new cells, if needed.
I agree that the later meters like the DP-12 are the ultimate for the F2.
Cameraquest also advertises services on F2 meters, if you're here in the U.S. I have a DP-11 I'm planning on sending in to him soon.
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