I hope to find a design for the development tank cover

[Donald Qualls]

Where I've seen the rubber band used is with the stainless caps that used to come with stainless tanks. I agree, I doubt you'd get good results with it on a non-circular cap rim.

 

[mohmad khatab]

Where I've seen the rubber band used is with the stainless caps that used to come with stainless tanks. I agree, I doubt you'd get good results with it on a non-circular cap rim.

I looked into it.. and it became clear to me that
The cost of 3D printing is not cheap.
- If you want to print tank, we must bring superior quality raw material,
Charcoal raw materials are not cheap.
So I am thinking of buying the cover only and this will be much more affordable.

 

[mohmad khatab]

Never heard of Kalt either than here at Apug. But I do not want to make myself the standard either.


The design of these caps look like the those from a certain generation of Kindermann tanks, a german manufacturer long gone.
The funny thing with these is, that back then I did not even knew that SS tanks existed, let alone being made in Germany: never saw them in a shop, nor in a book or magazine. Only now I found them in old, german Kindermann catalogs. And so far I only came across some empty boxes for them. In general these german tanks seem rather being made for export.

yes dear brother..
I pretty much agree with you,
I think that this tank is basically a German design. Yes, maybe this tank is an American manufacture, but I think that it is basically an American design.
As is the case with many products that were originally designed in Germany and were imitated by other companies, and with the passage of time people became aware of this alternative product and did not know that it was originally a German design.

 

[mohmad khatab]

I have many tanks of different types. My suggestion is that you try to solve this problem in a different way. High quality stainless steel tanks like Nikors had their lids and bottoms hand matched at the factory. They either didn't leak at all or leaked very little. Over time the lids and bottoms became mismatched and leaking became more common. Kindermann solved the problem by using plastic lids and caps. It was known that over time the lids would need to be replaced. I solved the leak problem in some tanks with stainless steel lids and caps by getting some 1/2 inch (approx. 12.5mm) wide rubber bands of the right circumference and putting them around the tank where the bottom meets the cap. You should be able to find a used stainless steel tank with a stainless steel lid and cap from an eBay seller who is willing/able to ship to your location. When will such a tank wear out? Maybe never. Two other possibilities may work for you. Yankee made plastic tanks which fit stainless steel reels and Kindermann also made tanks where the bottom, the lid and the cap are all plastic. These all plastic Kindermann tanks also accept stainless steel reels so you will still accomplish your goal of using less chemistry than, for example, Paterson type tanks.

I totally respect your opinion.
God bless you ..
But I think it is a very dangerous idea and I will not be able to do it.
It may cause unexpected problems.
I'm developing films for amateur photographers, and I don't want to do anything reckless with too much risk.
I have another Polish tank that hears five rolls at once, Corox, but it is actually an evil tank that consumes a lot of chemistry. If you want to develop two rolls together, you must use 700 ml chemistry,,
While that tank that I am looking to prepare and repair, it consumes less than half a liter only..

 

[Donald Qualls]

I have another Polish tank that hears five rolls at once, Corox, but it is actually an evil tank that consumes a lot of chemistry. If you want to develop two rolls together, you must use 700 ml chemistry,,
While that tank that I am looking to prepare and repair, it consumes less than half a liter only..

I'm confused. Two rolls in 700 ml is better economy than one roll in 500 ml. Further, most 35mm stainless tanks only need 250 ml for a 35mm roll; I can do 35mm in my Paterson plastic tank in 290 ml (and two rolls of 120 on the same spiral in 500 ml).

 

[mohmad khatab]

I'm confused. Two rolls in 700 ml is better economy than one roll in 500 ml. Further, most 35mm stainless tanks only need 250 ml for a 35mm roll; I can do 35mm in my Paterson plastic tank in 290 ml (and two rolls of 120 on the same spiral in 500 ml).

I apologize to you, brother, I made a mistake in the ambiguity.
The Polish tank is large and can develop five rolls at once. If you want to develop one roll, you must bring 400 ml, and if you want to develop two rolls, you must bring 700 ml.,
While the stainless steel tank can develop one roll using 280 ml, and if you want to develop two rolls, you should bring about 485 ml (just under half a liter).
So the stainless steel tank is very economical and this will make me save some money.
for example ,,,
If I prepare half a liter of developer (C41), this quantity is assumed to be able to develop six films.
If I develop the first batch, which consists of two rolls, there is definitely a high probability that the liquid quantity will lose a little of its mass as a result of evaporation and as a result that the emulsions have little liquid attached to them, if you put the developer into the tank and then empty this The developer will definitely not get the same amount (500 ml), you will definitely lose at least 5 ml.
Is this logical?
Yes, it is logical.
- If we want to repeat the process and develop two more films with the same developer.. we will also lose an amount of no less than another 5 ml.. and therefore we will get the net amount to become 490 ml..
And if we want to develop two more films..
Here we should pause for a moment.
This is the moment of truth.
We want 485 so we can upgrade one last time before we get rid of this developer.
- If we were able to develop six films with a half-liter, this is considered a success for us, since we do not have a rotary machine, we work using traditional manual development.

I hope you get the idea clearly.
All these are the reasons that made me want to get that offer so badly.

You can't do the same with the Patterson tank, why?
First, the Patterson tank needs 290 ml per roll.. I mean, it needs 580 ml in order to develop two films at once, and this means that you should prepare a full liter and not just half a liter.

Okay

 

[Donald Qualls]

@mohmad khatab That makes perfect sense, I just hadn't caught that one of your tanks was a Paterson type and the other stainless. That's about what I'd expect, then. I do two rolls of 120 in my Paterson with 500 ml, but that's by loading the rolls end to end on a single spiral.

Either way, I'll stand behind the suggestion to use the design I linked above -- if nothing else, to test the fit with standard PLA before spending on an upgraded filament. There are black PLA and PETG filaments (printable with nearly any machine that has a heated bed) that are opaque enough for this, and PETG is chemical resistant (the same basic plastic used in drink bottles, with a treatment to make it print better). If the lid doesn't fit your stainless tank, then print the entire tank in black PETG -- cost should be almost the same as PLA, and it'll work for your need. The design is sized to take stainless reels, so should use the same amount of liquid.

 

[mohmad khatab]

@mohmad khatab That makes perfect sense, I just hadn't caught that one of your tanks was a Paterson type and the other stainless. That's about what I'd expect, then. I do two rolls of 120 in my Paterson with 500 ml, but that's by loading the rolls end to end on a single spiral.

Either way, I'll stand behind the suggestion to use the design I linked above -- if nothing else, to test the fit with standard PLA before spending on an upgraded filament. There are black PLA and PETG filaments (printable with nearly any machine that has a heated bed) that are opaque enough for this, and PETG is chemical resistant (the same basic plastic used in drink bottles, with a treatment to make it print better). If the lid doesn't fit your stainless tank, then print the entire tank in black PETG -- cost should be almost the same as PLA, and it'll work for your need. The design is sized to take stainless reels, so should use the same amount of liquid.

Developing two films within one reel, this is a very difficult step and it needs someone like you who has blind experience and also loves to paddle..
But I'm really not curious about that experience.

- I am now studying the price, as I received information that the quality of the luxurious raw material has skyrocketed, and the reason is that this high-end category came from the small state of Qatar, and there were some political differences between the two countries, and the matter was almost transforming In the meantime, the Egyptian government imposed additional customs duties on raw materials that come from Qatar, and Qatar, in turn, imposed additional export fees on anyone wishing to export raw materials to Egypt,
- There is a looming political breakthrough between the two countries at the political level, but the results of that breakthrough will not be immediate.

Now, as it seems, either we buy bad recycled materials from recycled plastic,,
Or we buy high-quality materials, but the price will be 10 times the price of the cover and the price of the full tank.
I am really confused.

 

[Donald Qualls]

I hate when politics gets in the way of life.

The only other option I can come up with at the moment is to go ahead and print the lid (and tank, if necessary) with your cheap recycled filament (in black), with high infill and thick walls, then seal it with a two-part epoxy or acrylic resin (even polyester resin, like used for fiberglass) to keep the chemicals off the (potentially porous and reactive) printed plastic.

 

[AgX]

.
The Polish tank is large and can develop five rolls at once. If you want to develop one roll, you must bring 400 ml, and if you want to develop two rolls, you must bring 700 ml.,

That manufacturer is wellknown, but I did not know that they made tanks too.

A single-reel Jobo tank from that period even took 750mm. BUT this was for the reel in extended state.
If your reel can be extended to 60mm, you could use less fluid when developing just one 35mm film. Check this.

Concerning your leaking tank the best option to my mind would be to somehow get a new cap as spare as described above.

Concerning a makeshift sealing you might try a painter's masking tape, the extra-deep corrugated crepe version for roundings, to get around those knuckles.

 

[mohmad khatab]

I hate when politics gets in the way of life.

The only other option I can come up with at the moment is to go ahead and print the lid (and tank, if necessary) with your cheap recycled filament (in black), with high infill and thick walls, then seal it with a two-part epoxy or acrylic resin (even polyester resin, like used for fiberglass) to keep the chemicals off the (potentially porous and reactive) printed plastic.

This is our miserable life in Egypt and the Arab countries.
Politics interferes with everything, so we are poor countries, even though we were the first country God created on the planet. But this is history, and history is in the museum.
Yes, thank you, dear brother. May God bless you.
I will consider all the options available, but I tend to buy the original cover as per the peace of mind policy.
In general, I will study and think about it and am not in a hurry.
Greetings to you, gentleman.

 

[mohmad khatab]

That manufacturer is wellknown, but I did not know that they made tanks too.

A single-reel Jobo tank from that period even took 750mm. BUT this was for the reel in extended state.
If your reel can be extended to 60mm, you could use less fluid when developing just one 35mm film. Check this.

Concerning your leaking tank the best option to my mind would be to somehow get a new cap as spare as described above.

Concerning a makeshift sealing you might try a painter's masking tape, the extra-deep corrugated crepe version for roundings, to get around those knuckles.

Yes, dear brother.
Developing one film needs 400 ml in this Polish tank, and if you want to develop several films using a successive development plan, meaning that you develop one roll and then develop another roll and so on, this is what I am doing now, and this Of course, it takes a lot of time, effort, blood and tears in order to save chemistry and money.
- And two weeks ago, I was complaining about this matter and an old man who works as an ophthalmologist came to me, and he is one of the old amateur photographers, and he brought me a stainless steel tank with two reel 35, and another reel outside the tank measuring 120 m Unfortunately, the tank cover was damaged.
That is the full story.

 

[dynachrome]

To clear up a few things: I do not suggest using a rubber band with a Paterson type tank. I do not suggest using a rubber band with a Kindermann type tank. I do not suggest using a rubber band with the cap of a stainless steel tank with a stainless steel lid, on the cap. I suggest that the OP should obtain a stainless steel tank and reel set where the tank, the lid and the cap are all stainless steel. If leaking takes place, it will do so where the tank meets the lid. It is along this seam that the rubber band should be placed. I don't get much leaking from the cap itself if it is seated properly.

On a separate note, if the OP wants to save money on chemistry, he might consider using a developer full strength and replenishing it. Even tanks which use a higher volume of chemistry per roll will benefit from the economy of replenishment.

 

[AgX]

Dynachrome, one issue is the differenciation between "lid" and "cap".
It seems this is not only a issue for non-native speakers, when I look into dictionaries.

You advise a steel tank, others may advise just no steel tank, but a plastic tank with known tight sealing. However Mohmad had repeatedly noted here and in other threads that he has dfficulties obtaining products from abroad and would like to get along as best as possible with the things he already got.

 

[mohmad khatab]

To clear up a few things: I do not suggest using a rubber band with a Paterson type tank. I do not suggest using a rubber band with a Kindermann type tank. I do not suggest using a rubber band with the cap of a stainless steel tank with a stainless steel lid, on the cap. I suggest that the OP should obtain a stainless steel tank and reel set where the tank, the lid and the cap are all stainless steel. If leaking takes place, it will do so where the tank meets the lid. It is along this seam that the rubber band should be placed. I don't get much leaking from the cap itself if it is seated properly.

On a separate note, if the OP wants to save money on chemistry, he might consider using a developer full strength and replenishing it. Even tanks which use a higher volume of chemistry per roll will benefit from the economy of replenishment.

hello brother,
- The idea of a rubber band is not excluded, it may be tested on a tank with water or with chemistry, but without a film in principle until we test the idea.

I'm not sure about the chemistry renewal issue.
Yes, in fact, I had previously spoken about this with the Austrian engineer Rudy.
- I have a Konica patent that contains a special formula for renewing Replenisher.
But in practice, I found that the quantity, the quantity of films that come to me, may not be worth using a renewable chemistry.
The most successful idea is to prepare half a liter of the developer + half a liter of (Blix) Ilford's secret.
This is the cheapest way to get the cheapest chemistry and at the same time gives very good results.
And the real challenge is to make that quantity that can develop six rolls while increasing the time by 10 seconds at a time in the second batch and 20 seconds in the third batch.
Let me ask you about your nationality?

 

[mohmad khatab]

Dynachrome, one issue is the differenciation between "lid" and "cap".
It seems this is not only a issue for non-native speakers, when I look into dictionaries.

You advise a steel tank, others may advise just no steel tank, but a plastic tank with known tight sealing. However Mohmad had repeatedly noted here and in other threads that he has dfficulties obtaining products from abroad and would like to get along as best as possible with the things he already got.

Dear brother ,
You are a nice guy, thank you for your interest.
- I don't always have access to products from abroad,
In the past, I was a somewhat wealthy man, when I was working in Kuwait, but now, after I returned to my country after the revolution, the economic conditions are not good.
So in most cases I seek to save expenses, this is not a kind of smartness and it is not the kind of saving that the rich do to prove that they can save when they want to.
I am forced to do that.
Praise be to God always and in all circumstances.

I apologize as English is not my mother tongue. I'm sorry .

 

[dynachrome]

Yes you may. I am American and I live in the U.S. Your English is much better than my Arabic. I have enough film developing equipment to sink a ship. If it would be helpful, I could send you a tank. You may contact me offline.

 

[mohmad khatab]

Yes you may. I am American and I live in the U.S. Your English is much better than my Arabic. I have enough film developing equipment to sink a ship. If it would be helpful, I could send you a tank. You may contact me offline.

hello brother,,
Thanks for your kind words. God bless you .
Actually, I really appreciate your kindness.
My English is not as good as it seems,
I spend a lot of time translating letters and reviewing spelling and grammar, it is really complicated, but I am sure that it is worth it,, I talk to respected fellow photographers and I talk to experts in photographic science who have the prestigious scientific and artistic value of photography and every discussion I participate in I find myself gaining more experience.
God bless you all .

 

[mohmad khatab]

There are designs on Thingiverse for a complete developing tank for stainless type reels (that is, without a core). It might be simpler to print the complete tank (resized in the slicer to fit the reel(s) you already have) than to find a downloadable file for the pour-through lid and inversion cap to fit your existing stainless tank. I'd recommend printing in black, not the red used for the example print for the link -- I presume they used red for visibility...

There are designs on Thingiverse for a complete developing tank for stainless type reels (that is, without a core). It might be simpler to print the complete tank (resized in the slicer to fit the reel(s) you already have) than to find a downloadable file for the pour-through lid and inversion cap to fit your existing stainless tank. I'd recommend printing in black, not the red used for the example print for the link -- I presume they used red for visibility...

Brother Donald.
Do you know,, Where can I find the 3D printing file for this single cover?

 

[Donald Qualls]

Where can I find the 3D printing file for this single cover?

Without precise dimensions, you can't find that cover. The diameter that fits to the tank body is critical, and without knowing that, no one could produce one of those in CAD or print one with any likelihood of it fitting. If you have the necessary measuring instruments, whoever you know who has a 3D printer can probably draw one up in whatever 3D CAD software they're used to using.

 

[mohmad khatab]

Without precise dimensions, you can't find that cover. The diameter that fits to the tank body is critical, and without knowing that, no one could produce one of those in CAD or print one with any likelihood of it fitting. If you have the necessary measuring instruments, whoever you know who has a 3D printer can probably draw one up in whatever 3D CAD software they're used to using.

Thank you, brother, for your kind reply.
But my friend, I don't know anything about design applications.
I am a simple man, my experience in these matters is very limited
This cover is very popular because it is the famous stainless steel tank cover.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Even "standard" stainless tanks vary in diameter. I have a couple, one leaks when I put the other's lid on it. You need to find someone who knows enough 3D CAD, let them measure your tank and show them what the lid needs to do (pour-through light trap, place for an O-ring to seal the lid to the tank, inversion cap to prevent the contents getting away when you agitate), and pay them to do the design work. Even then, you'll get a lid that will probably only work on one brand of stainless tank.

 

[AgX]

One solution to seal a leaking cap or lid might be using a strongly crinkled, wide masking-tape for painters. It could be formed enough to adapt it to more complex forms.

Or, though messy, use some kind of children putty.