I have some old film I want to shoot and develop

[sruddy]

I'm wondering if any of the film you see in my photos would be better than the others. It's all from the 1970's. I have the most of the Tri-X Pan ASA 320 from 1976. I wonder if I can use it in my Rolleiflex cameras.

How much over exposure do you all suggest? I will be developing with HC-110 and am wondering if I should modify any of the development times. I have plenty of film to test it out but would like to get a reasonably close starting point.

 

[Kino]

For the B&W, shoot a roll of each at box speeds and develop normally. How can you have a reference point if you start with non-standard standards?

If you only have one roll of any certain type, bracket heavily; something should come out...

 

[Don_ih]

The Panatomic X film will be pretty good. The TriX will have slowed down to about 50 (if you're lucky) by now --- faster films drop their capacity to record shadow detail fairly drastically. I'd try exposing the TriX at 50 and developing as normal (although current TriX is different from that).
Shoot the TriX at box speed and it will be nearly blank.

The colour film will be, um, pretty awful. Still might be worth trying.

The IR film might be good or might be fogged beyond redemption.

You'll have the best luck with the film you have in duplicate, since you can test. But none of it should be used for anything you plan to keep, because unknown problems may be plaguing individual rolls.

 

[Huss]

I shot Trix 320 maybe 2 years ago with no issues.
Your Rolleiflex can shoot 220? I know some have the 120/220 switch. Mine don't...

 

[Huss]

For the B&W, shoot a roll of each at box speeds and develop normally. How can you have a reference point if you start with non-standard standards?

If you only have one roll of any certain type, bracket heavily; something should come out...

Exactly.

 

[Paul Howell]

The recording film was the Tmax 3200 of the day, it is likely fogged. The E6 color, if not fogged likely had color shifts that might be interesting. I had roll of Tri X in 120, dated 1977, came with an enlarger I bought on line, shot it for grins, fogged. As noted the lower speed films like PanX is your best bet. My Kodak data guide shows Tri X pro, HC 110 B at 4 m, 30 seconds at 68 degrees, if you drop the temp to 60 degrees it 6M 30 Seconds.
PanX HC 110, B, 4m 30 S, at 68 degrees, 6 m at 60 degrees. My data guide does not have time for Recording, closest is Royal X pan 9 minuets at 68 degrees, ASA was 1250. So, I would shoot at 200 to 400.

 

[MattKing]

The Kodak Infrared film will be of great interest to some people here, although it may have suffered from the progress of time and conditions.
I have no idea what process would have been used for the Anscochrome.

 

[Paul Howell]

Anscochrome became GAF used a process very different from Kodak E6, in some aspects similar to E4, needed to a a bright lamp to reverse to a positive, not sure if the couplers are in common with E4. On occasion a GAF kit will show up on Ebay, but as some of the chemistry comes as a liquid in a foil bag, my bet is that has crystalized over time.

 

[Les Sarile]

Yours are much older then what I've tried but maybe they were kept better?

I picked up a box of Kodak Ektar 125 in 9/2010 that had expired 4/1992 and kept outside in a hot Atlanta carport most of that time.

Kodak Ektar 125 box by Les DMess, on Flickr

Kodak Ektar 125 by Les DMess, on Flickr

Surprisingly, looks like it's down to ISO32.

Kodak Ektar 125-1_03 by Les DMess, on Flickr

So I shot rolls of it at ISO32 . . .

Kodak Ektar 125-1_11-04 ICENA1 by Les DMess, on Flickr

Kodak Ektar 125-1_10-15 by Les DMess, on Flickr

I scanned these on my Coolscan with no color correction - or much of anything else, and was pleasantly surprised with the results.

 

[Bill Burk]

I recommend shooting the Tri-X at between 64 and 125. I once tested some unknown storage ‘70 expiring Tri-X 120 which rated, when it met ASA test parameters… to be 64. But yours looks well stored maybe frozen or refrigerated, so in your case I think you might have greater speed.

 

[abruzzi]

doesnt' that ektachrome aero IR film sell for crazy money these days? (I just looked and someone on ebay things three rolls are worth $225) I've never shot it, but it would be fun to try it out.

 

[Paul Howell]

No idea what people are paying for it, from the 70s, rolled in can of 20, I dont recall when Kodak and Iflord moved to 24. It's high speed, roll of the dice to see how much fog. Never shot color IR, B&W needs a dark red filter, does color IR need a filter?

 

[sruddy]

Thanks for all the info! I was going to start the with the 220 Tri-x but neither of my Rolleiflex cameras have a 12/24 switch. I’m wondering if I can still load it and just settle for 12 exposures. If not I have a bulk tin of it in 35mm.

 

[Huss]

Thanks for all the info! I was going to start the with the 220 Tri-x but neither of my Rolleiflex cameras have a 12/24 switch. I’m wondering if I can still load it and just settle for 12 exposures. If not I have a bulk tin of it in 35mm.

View attachment 275739​

I have a couple of cameras that shoot 220. I'll be happy to trade for 120 film I have. Or buy it from you?

 

[sruddy]

I have a couple of cameras that shoot 220. I'll be happy to trade for 120 film I have. Or buy it from you?

Please send me a pm of what you have to trade. Looks like I only have 9 rolls of the 220.

 

[mohmad khatab]

Please send me a pm of what you have to trade. Looks like I only have 9 rolls of the 220.

Trust me, if you definitely use that recipe you will be able to save most of your stock from perishing.
- Definitely, you should do Bush’s job while shooting (two steps back in ISO), that is, film with ISO 100 written on it, you have to shoot it on ISO 25

 

[Huss]

Please send me a pm of what you have to trade. Looks like I only have 9 rolls of the 220.

Will do

 

[Danner]

I miss the tin film cans with the yellow lid. Will you please send me one?