I am going to take the big step and start developing!

[Znerken]

Hey everyone.

I have been scared of developing film for quite a while now, either because of my skills or I blame my asthma.

Anyway, I finally decided I will start developing some film. I have bought a Paterson film developing kit, and now I will purchase some chemicals.

I live in Europe, and I will use the chemicals for the following

• TRI-X 400 pushed to 1600 (35mm)
• TRI-X 400 (35mm)
• T-MAX 100 (120)
• T-MAX 400(120)

I considered X-TOL but I would love if there is a easier to use(fluid) developer? I need a developer, a fixer and a photoflo.

 

[BMbikerider]

If you can get hold of it, try one called FX39. It covers most films (or at least the ones I use) I find it easy to use and very forgiving with mistakes. Furthermore it is quite inexpensive. I buy mine from a company in UK called Firstcall Photographic. Thier website is:-

http://www.firstcall-photographic.co.uk/

 

[Kevin Caulfield]

I would also recommend FX39, assuming the Adoption version is the same as the old Paterson one.

Sent from my D6653 using Tapatalk

 

[Kevin Caulfield]

Adox not adoption. Predictive text, thanks for that

Sent from my D6653 using Tapatalk

 

[Znerken]

But FX-39 isn't that good for pushing, is it?


By the way; I really like the look of X-TOL, so I would love to get a similar developer.

How is T-MAX devleoper by the way?

 

[Kevin Caulfield]

As good as most for pushing.

Sent from my D6653 using Tapatalk

 

[Znerken]

I called my local shop, and he strongly recommended me t-max or rodinal. Anyone agree?

 

[pdeeh]

Just buy a developer and start developing. Despite all the endless threads here and elsewhere debating the benefits of one exciting fluid over another, it really won't make much difference to your end results especially if you are just starting out.
Get the tmax, stop if you want and some rapid fixer. the brands just don't matter.

 

[Znerken]

Just buy a developer and start developing. Despite all the endless threads here and elsewhere debating the benefits of one exciting fluid over another, it really won't make much difference to your end results especially if you are just starting out.
Get the tmax, stop if you want and some rapid fixer. the brands just don't matter.

Thanks.

I will try:
1. T-MAX
2. Ilford fix
3. Kodak photoflo


Hope it goes well!

I purchased this kit:
[TABLE="width: 100%, align: center"]

[TD="width: 50%"][h=4]Paterson Film Processing Kit[/h]Contains all the essential equipment to process up to two rolls of 35mm or one roll of 120 film at the same time.
Contents:
- Universal Developing Tank with 2 spirals
- Two 600ml Graduates
- One 150ml Graduate
- Thermometer
- Film Squeegee
- Set of 2 Film Clips
- Full instructions


[/TD]

[/TABLE]

Guess I am all set?

 

[Anon Ymous]

If you like Xtol, buy Xtol and be done with it. It's a great developer and has given me some of the best negatives I've ever had. There's nothing particularly wrong with either TMax or Rodinal developers. Well, given the fact that you'd like to push process Tri-X, Rodinal is a rather poor choice, compared to both TMax and Xtol. Just one tip, if you buy Xtol, mixing it with distilled - deionised water is a good idea. Storing it in full, tightly capped bottles is also highly recommended.

 

[pdeeh]

Personally I wouldn't let a squeegee near any of my film but there are plenty of people who do and swear by it.

My suggestion is to stop deferring and asking for advice and just get on and do it. If you do make mistakes, you will not be the first or last, and no-one from the Film Developing Police will come and arrest you.


The best advice comes from the people who make films and developers, so the first couple of links given in this thread (there was a url link here which no longer exists) will be more help to you starting out than the often conflicting and confusing advice given in threads like this.

 

[Znerken]

Personally I wouldn't let a squeegee near any of my film but there are plenty of people who do and swear by it.

My suggestion is to stop deferring and asking for advice and just get on and do it. If you do make mistakes, you will not be the first or last, and no-one from the Film Developing Police will come and arrest you.


The best advice comes from the people who make films and developers, so the first couple of links given in this thread (there was a url link here which no longer exists) will be more help to you starting out than the often conflicting and confusing advice given in threads like this.

As soon as the chemicals arrive, I will!

I will not use the squeegee, but I guess I need everything else in the kit?

 

[pdeeh]

Znerken, I think you have all you need and more.

 

[Ricardo Miranda]

Do you have a changing bag?
It is handy and all you need if you don't have a darkroom.

 

[Znerken]

Do you have a changing bag?
It is handy and all you need if you don't have a darkroom.

I have, it comes with the kit

 

[goros]

Znerken, I think you have all you need and more.

Plastic jars or any other container to keep the chemicals once mixed and after being poured.

 

[Znerken]

Plastic jars or any other container to keep the chemicals once mixed and after being poured.

Good tips.

How much fixer and T-MAX developer do I need to mix up to use with the Paterson tank?

 

[Znerken]

Could anyone help me with this:

Small-Tank Processing(8- or 16-ounce tank)—RollsAgitate once every 30 seconds. Drop the loaded film reel intothe developer and attach the top to the tank. Firmly tap thetank on the top of the work surface to dislodge any airbubbles. Provide initial agitation of 5 to 7 inversion cycles in5 seconds, i.e. extend your arm and vigorously twist yourwrist 180 degrees as shown below.Then repeat this agitation procedure at 30-secondintervals for the rest of the development time.

I know what agitation is, but I couldn't really understand intial agitation(for how long) and then the afterwardws repeated agitation?

Are they saying:
1. Pull the developer in
2. Tap the tank
3. Do 5-7 inversion, each should take 5 seconds, which is like agitating for 30 seconds?
4. Tap tank
5. Wait 30 seconds
4. Then agitate for 30 seconds every one minute?

 

[Ricardo Miranda]

You don't need that many things.
You only need:
Rodinal
Fixer and a syringe or graduate that can read in 1ml.
Use 1:100 for 1 hour, 4 slow inversions to start things up. Water as a stop and then fixer.
Wash using the Ilford method.
Some people like to complicate things.

Is it a 2-reel tank?
Use about 600ml total for 2x 35mm rolls.
It should say on the bottom 1x 35mm= 290ml.
For 1:100 I just use 6ml Rodinal and 600ml water for 2 rolls.
Throw away the dilution after use.
A bottle of 250ml of Fomadon R09 (Rodinal by another name) develops 83 rolls.

Easy peasy does it.
Oh, and don't tap the tank: it is plastic and soon it will crack. Don't ask me how I know that.
Tap as much as you like a metal tank.
Have a nice processing day.

 

[Znerken]

You don't need that many things.
You only need:
Rodinal
Fixer and a syringe or graduate that can read in 1ml.
Use 1:100 for 1 hour, 4 slow inversions to start things up. Water as a stop and then fixer.
Wash using the Ilford method.
Some people like to complicate things.

Is it a 2-reel tank?
Use about 600ml total for 2x 35mm rolls.
It should say on the bottom 1x 35mm= 290ml.
For 1:100 I just use 6ml Rodinal and 600ml water for 2 rolls.
Throw away the dilution after use.
A bottle of 250ml of Fomadon R09 (Rodinal by another name) develops 83 rolls.

Easy peasy does it.
Oh, and don't tap the tank: it is plastic and soon it will crack. Don't ask me how I know that.
Tap as much as you like a metal tank.
Have a nice processing day.

I have purchased T-MAX, but besides that I hear you

 

[Ko.Fe.]

HC-110 (Kodak) mixed from concentrate for each developing, Kodak Stop Bath mix in 1L bottle, lasts long, Kodak fixer from powder, last long time and predictable and Kodak PhotoFlo in 1.5L bottle, one cap per to 1L, reusable.
Works best for me. But I use Ilford film

 

[Huub]

I know what agitation is, but I couldn't really understand intial agitation(for how long) and then the afterwardws repeated agitation?

Are they saying:
1. Pull the developer in
2. Tap the tank
3. Do 5-7 inversion, each should take 5 seconds, which is like agitating for 30 seconds?
4. Tap tank
5. Wait 30 seconds
4. Then agitate for 30 seconds every one minute?

After pooring in the developer into the tank, put the lid on the tank. Start the clock. Then invert the tank twice and tap the tank on the table or sink and place the tank on table or sink after that. Wait for the 10 sec mark, invert again and put the tank on the table. Repeat this at 20, 30, 40, 50 sec and at the one minute mark. Then invert the tank once every half a minute. Put the tank on the table after inversion. Continue until the development time is completed. Poor the developer out and poor the stop in. Now inverrt once every 15 sec until one minute is full. Then replace the stop with fix and repeat the inversion secuence for developing during fixing time.

 

[MattKing]

Some tips:

For your tank "taps", put something cushioned on the surface you are tapping on. A folded towel or wash rag or a mouse pad works great. The reason for the "taps" is that you want to loosen any bubbles that may form.

I try to ensure that there is some rotation involved when I do inversion agitation. To see what I mean, grab the tank with one hand on top and the other on the bottom and invert the tank - see how it turns as well!

It is easy to replicate that with a single hand.

Put a small box inside the changing bag to give your self some working room. You may find that humidity builds in the bag, and humidity will make it more difficult to load the reel. Try to load film when it is a bit cooler. It is okay to leave loaded film in a developing tank for developing later. If you have a closet or something similar you can use instead of a changing bag for loading, I strongly recommend that.

Don't leave the film in the reel for the photoflo step. Take the film off and just lower it into a photoflo container.

Less photoflo is often better than more - if you are unable to measure it exactly to the concentration specified, try a single drop of concentrate in half a litre.

Mixed up photoflo doesn't keep well.

Make it a habit to regularly scrub your reels with a toothbrush or something similar.

Have lots and lots of fun!

 

[Sirius Glass]

Thanks.

I will try:
1. T-MAX
2. Ilford fix
3. Kodak photoflo


Hope it goes well!

I purchased this kit:
[TABLE="width: 100%, align: center"]

[TD="width: 50%"]Paterson Film Processing Kit

Contains all the essential equipment to process up to two rolls of 35mm or one roll of 120 film at the same time.
Contents:
- Universal Developing Tank with 2 spirals
- Two 600ml Graduates
- One 150ml Graduate
- Thermometer
- Film Squeegee
- Set of 2 Film Clips
- Full instructions

[/TD]

[/TABLE]

Guess I am all set?

I would recommend that you also use Stop Bath with Indicator. It is inexpensive and it stops the developing for the complete roll at once. Using stop bath also extends the life of the fixer.

 

[Sirius Glass]

If you like Xtol, buy Xtol and be done with it. It's a great developer and has given me some of the best negatives I've ever had. There's nothing particularly wrong with either TMax or Rodinal developers. Well, given the fact that you'd like to push process Tri-X, Rodinal is a rather poor choice, compared to both TMax and Xtol. Just one tip, if you buy Xtol, mixing it with distilled - deionised water is a good idea. Storing it in full, tightly capped bottles is also highly recommended.

After you have used XTOL for a while, try replenished XTOL as it increases the sharpness and tonality.