There are not any real facts any more you can deny global warming and extreme droughts ever happened in pre history to Peblo people in four corners.The Glen Canyon Dam, which the environmentalists fought but was built anyway, cannot be kept filled and is mostly empty now. It is a good idea to know the real facts, not the faith based facts based on what one had for breakfast before posting.Yes but unless it rains in Aus or SCalfornia their reservoirs will empty cause they were sized too small.
I use hypo clear followed by three tempered baths and we have too much water but need to use heat to get to 20C.
Im a statistion, good luck.
Water is not wasted. It is always in cycle. Unless you are using electrolysis to break apart water molecules. Then water is in fact, actually lost.
It is only useful to think this way in the long term. In the short term, wasted water is just waste....it wastes resources used to clean annd deliver the water and it causes un-necessary hardship (again in the short term).
I've always used HCA with both film and RC paper specifically because it reduces wash time. To do otherwise is foolish, wasteful and inconsiderate. Please do not waste.
Water is not wasted. It is always in cycle. Unless you are using electrolysis to break apart water molecules. Then water is in fact, actually lost.
You need water conserveration now.
Does anyone use the 2x time to clear method?
I use 2x for traditional film (Plus-X) and 3x for T-grain film (TMY)
hi mark
i don't use hypo clear but perma wash ( similar but a little different )
i fix 2x in separate fix baths for recommended times
rinse film ( and paper ) for recommended time
then into the perma wash for recommended time
then wash out perma wash for recommended time ( sometimes 2x that time if i am paranoid )
i think for film it is something like 2 mins rinse, 2min perma, then 2min wash,
double weight paper 5 mins wash &c
single weight paper, half that ..
since i can't remember, i consult the package ( not all brands are the same ) .
the hypo clear is a substance ( sodium sulfate ? ) that grabs free floating fixer/hypo molecules off of your film / paper / water
and helps you clear your film /paper/ stuff of these molecules that are just hanging out, not doing anything.
( it is based on the us navy's using sea water to reduce wash times in ww2, similar stuff )
just do what the package of your hypo clear says to do and you won't have troubles and it will reduce your wash times.
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
also has info on the soak-method ..
have fun
john
The TMY is tougher to fix completely. In actuality, the clips of film I use for the tests are all TMY. When develop Plus-X, I use 2x the TMY clearing time. When I develop TMY, I use 3x the TMY clearing time.
Under-fixing is something I seriously try to avoid.
And by clearing - you mean fixing correct? I'm still learning the lingo -
I use 2x for traditional film (Plus-X) and 3x for T-grain film (TMY)
What are you using 2x and 3x?
As always, read the instructions for using any chemical. Kodak, for example, provides very complete information on how to use their chemicals, including capacity, storage times, etc. Avoid buying no-name chemicals that provide little information.
For film, after fixing fill the tank with tap water, agitiate for 30 seconds, dump, then add hypoclear and agitate for 2 minutes, then wash with tap water for 5 minutes, then PhotoFlo for 30 seconds (reference: Kodak). For paper, RC paper does not require hypoclear but it helps remove fixer when using fiber paper. In the scheme of things, the cost of hypoclear is negligible so there's no reason not to use it (same goes for indicator stop).
globalwarming was the biggest hoaks of the 20th century!but a good way to get a government grant approved.what a laugh
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