Hypo-clear

[Sirius Glass]

Yes but unless it rains in Aus or SCalfornia their reservoirs will empty cause they were sized too small.

The Glen Canyon Dam, which the environmentalists fought but was built anyway, cannot be kept filled and is mostly empty now. It is a good idea to know the real facts, not the faith based facts based on what one had for breakfast before posting.

There are not any real facts any more you can deny global warming and extreme droughts ever happened in pre history to Peblo people in four corners.

I use hypo clear followed by three tempered baths and we have too much water but need to use heat to get to 20C.

Im a statistion, good luck.

Your inability to stay on the subject QUOTE=Xmas;1618285]Yes but unless it rains in Aus or SCalfornia their reservoirs will empty cause they were sized too small.[/QUOTE] clearly shows that you are over your head. Even a poor statistician knows when they have lost an argument.

 

[BradS]

Water is not wasted. It is always in cycle. Unless you are using electrolysis to break apart water molecules. Then water is in fact, actually lost.

It is only useful to think this way in the long term. In the short term, wasted water is just waste....it wastes resources used to clean annd deliver the water and it causes un-necessary hardship (again in the short term).

I've always used HCA with both film and RC paper specifically because it reduces wash time. To do otherwise is foolish, wasteful and inconsiderate. Please do not waste.

 

[Sirius Glass]

It is only useful to think this way in the long term. In the short term, wasted water is just waste....it wastes resources used to clean annd deliver the water and it causes un-necessary hardship (again in the short term).

I've always used HCA with both film and RC paper specifically because it reduces wash time. To do otherwise is foolish, wasteful and inconsiderate. Please do not waste.

+1

 

[Colin DeWolfe]

Water is not wasted. It is always in cycle. Unless you are using electrolysis to break apart water molecules. Then water is in fact, actually lost.

Or with fracking, removed out of the water cycle 'cos it's too polluted to do anything with.

 

[Xmas]

I accept Im a poor statistion and a scatter brain. But alas that won't reduce the effect of global warming long term.

We have built on flood plains that flood every year even in drought!
You guys are farming and fruit orchard in semi arid...

You need water conserveration now.

 

[Sirius Glass]

You need water conserveration now.

We need water conservation 50 years ago.

 

[nbagno]

Our film atoms are being transformed into atoms that don't work in my camera...

 

[Nuff]

I use hypo clear. It uses less water, it's less wasteful, I can get my negatives dry faster (since I will finish washing earlier). And most of all, it gets the stain out of Kodak films. I do not like to over fixate my films, since I already fix them for 6min in rapid fixer.

 

[Mainecoonmaniac]

Does anyone use the 2x time to clear method?

 

[removed account4]

Does anyone use the 2x time to clear method?

yup
otherwise you have no idea if you fixed enough or not ... that is, ifyou use your fix more than once

 

[MattKing]

I use 2x for traditional film (Plus-X) and 3x for T-grain film (TMY)

 

[mporter012]

I use 2x for traditional film (Plus-X) and 3x for T-grain film (TMY)

What are you using 2x and 3x?

 

[mporter012]

hi mark

i don't use hypo clear but perma wash ( similar but a little different )
i fix 2x in separate fix baths for recommended times
rinse film ( and paper ) for recommended time
then into the perma wash for recommended time
then wash out perma wash for recommended time ( sometimes 2x that time if i am paranoid )

i think for film it is something like 2 mins rinse, 2min perma, then 2min wash,
double weight paper 5 mins wash &c
single weight paper, half that ..
since i can't remember, i consult the package ( not all brands are the same ) .

the hypo clear is a substance ( sodium sulfate ? ) that grabs free floating fixer/hypo molecules off of your film / paper / water
and helps you clear your film /paper/ stuff of these molecules that are just hanging out, not doing anything.
( it is based on the us navy's using sea water to reduce wash times in ww2, similar stuff )
just do what the package of your hypo clear says to do and you won't have troubles and it will reduce your wash times.

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
also has info on the soak-method ..

have fun
john

Thanks John.

 

[spijker]

For those of you that use hypo-clear with film, how much water do actually you use per film. I use the Ilford method which means 4 tanks of water per film; 3 for washing and 1 for photo flo. For a 120 film that's 4 x 500 ml = 2 liter, for a 135 film it's 4 x 300 ml = 1.2 liter. I always thought that with film and RC paper it wasn't worth the hassle to use hypo-clear and dumping an extra chemical down the drain. So I'm just wondering how much water savings we're talking about. I'm all for water and energy conservation, that's not the issue.

 

[MattKing]

The TMY is tougher to fix completely. In actuality, the clips of film I use for the tests are all TMY. When develop Plus-X, I use 2x the TMY clearing time. When I develop TMY, I use 3x the TMY clearing time.
Under-fixing is something I seriously try to avoid .

 

[mporter012]

Thanks for all the info on hypo-clear. As for the other topic of water usage, this article in slate covers the issue quite well. Highly recommended. http://www.slate.com/articles/healt...n_lantern/2010/10/water_water_everywhere.html

 

[mporter012]

The TMY is tougher to fix completely. In actuality, the clips of film I use for the tests are all TMY. When develop Plus-X, I use 2x the TMY clearing time. When I develop TMY, I use 3x the TMY clearing time.
Under-fixing is something I seriously try to avoid .

And by clearing - you mean fixing correct? I'm still learning the lingo -

 

[MattKing]

And by clearing - you mean fixing correct? I'm still learning the lingo -

"Clearing" refers to the fact that as you fix the film, the cloudy emulsion visibly changes to clear. So when I fix 2x the clearing time, it means that I put the film clip into the fixer and start the timer. I observe the change of the film clip in the fixer, and when the clip has gone clear, the time that has expired is the clearing time. If that time turns out to be two minutes, my total fixing time will end up being either two or three times that time.

It is easier to guage whether or not the clip has cleared if you first put a drop of fixer on the clip for a minute, before you drop the entire clip into the fixer and start the timer. The film will have cleared when you can no longer see where the drop of fixer was.

 

[Terry Christian]

Hypo = Fixer.
Fixer = Hypo.

Hypo-clear (also called HCA or Perma-Wash) is so called because it helps to CLEAR (i.e., wash out more readily) the HYPO out of film or paper.

Pre-wash (optional), developer, stop (or water wash), fixer, hypo-clear (optional).

Got it?

 

[Sirius Glass]

I use 2x for traditional film (Plus-X) and 3x for T-grain film (TMY)

+1

 

[Sirius Glass]

What are you using 2x and 3x?

Because it works and clears any blue-purple tinge.

 

[mklw1954]

As always, read the instructions for using any chemical. Kodak, for example, provides very complete information on how to use their chemicals, including capacity, storage times, etc. Avoid buying no-name chemicals that provide little information.

For film, after fixing fill the tank with tap water, agitiate for 30 seconds, dump, then add hypoclear and agitate for 2 minutes, then wash with tap water for 5 minutes, then PhotoFlo for 30 seconds (reference: Kodak). For paper, RC paper does not require hypoclear but it helps remove fixer when using fiber paper. In the scheme of things, the cost of hypoclear is negligible so there's no reason not to use it (same goes for indicator stop).

 

[Xmas]

As always, read the instructions for using any chemical. Kodak, for example, provides very complete information on how to use their chemicals, including capacity, storage times, etc. Avoid buying no-name chemicals that provide little information.

For film, after fixing fill the tank with tap water, agitiate for 30 seconds, dump, then add hypoclear and agitate for 2 minutes, then wash with tap water for 5 minutes, then PhotoFlo for 30 seconds (reference: Kodak). For paper, RC paper does not require hypoclear but it helps remove fixer when using fiber paper. In the scheme of things, the cost of hypoclear is negligible so there's no reason not to use it (same goes for indicator stop).

buy good quality chemicals

fixing is dependent on temperature like development but after more then three minutes in fixer above 15C it is safe to open tank and inspect reel if the film is milky put reel back and inspect reel every minute until milky dissapears then fix for same time more.

washing is also dependent on temperature...

Kodak recommends clear for film if you want archival

an acid stop is ok for prehardened film most film is prehardened - water is safer for non prehardened.

read kodaks and ilfords data sheets don't listen to web gossip.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

globalwarming was the biggest hoaks of the 20th century!but a good way to get a government grant approved.what a laugh

 

[mporter012]

globalwarming was the biggest hoaks of the 20th century!but a good way to get a government grant approved.what a laugh

Hoaks, meaning hoax - but I'll assuming you're being facetious about climate change, being that it's entirely undeniable at this point. The only way one can flippantly deny climate change is to believe that every scientist from every country is involved in some kind of a global scam.