HP5+ Over Exposure by 4 Stops - Any hope?

[MattKing]

I like the normal development plus Farmers Reducer suggestion.

 

[Pioneer]

It looks like the general consensus is to go with a standard developer such as HC110 and normal development with Farmers Reducer as a backup if needed.

It looks like I need Sodium Thiosulphate (Hypo), Potassium Ferricyanide and Potassium Bromide. I have everything but the Potassium Ferricyanide so it is off to PhotoFormulary.

 

[Maris]

Big film has an amazing capacity to cope with overexposure. I've shot 8x10 Tmax-400 and forgot to stop the lens down, f/5.6 instead of f/64, 7 stops over and only discovered the mistake in the fixer tray after normal development. Contacted out (long long exposure) all the tones were there but, of course, no depth of field and not really useable.

 

[mrosenlof]

I would cut development by no more than 25%. Your depth of field might be more of an issue than the overexposure. Since I only contact print 8x10, I might use rodinal since everyone says there's a bit of speed loss.

From what I understand about D-23, it might be a good choice.

 

[Don_ih]

Farmers Reducer will not put a dent in the overexposed highlights but will erase the shadow detail - and it will be unrecoverable. You could develop to 70% normal in d76 then change it to a second alkaline bath for 5 or so minutes (put washing soda in a gallon of water to pour in your Jobo tank). That may allow shadow and midtone to catch up to highlights. If it's still not fun enough, you could bleach and redevelop.

 

[Pioneer]

I have some Potassium Ferricyanide on the way, I have the other two chemicals. I am hoping that I don't need it.

I'll let everyone know when I get ready to develop. I have Rodinal, HC110 and D-23 on hand and I suspect any of these will likely work out. Since most of my HP5+ development to date has been with D-23 I am actually leaning in that direction but I really haven't made any decisions yet.

As for depth of field I was up on a small hill and the primary subjects, a couple of large trees in the middle of a flood plain, were already at infinity. Hopefully it will all turn out.

 

[Craig]

I'd buy a package of Ilford Perceptol, since it is a speed reducing developer, like Microdol was. Ilford gives a time for and EI of 250 at 13 min. You can get it in 1L packages, so it's not like you have to buy a lot.

 

[alanrockwood]

What about starting out with full strength perceptol? That should get you a -1 stop loss of film speed, which will help at least a little. Plus, you'll get really fine grain, not that you will worry about grain with such a large negative. Also, most films tolerate over-exposure better than under exposure, and this is probably especially true for large format, where dense negatives seem to be popular.

Then under-develop a bit, and you're probably going to be OK, albeit with a low-contrast negative. Then just bump contrast back up with choice of paper grade or multi-contrast filtration during printing.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

HP5+ is pushed to ISO 3200 regularly.

 

[removed account4]

Wow. Never thought of that. I even have a bit of freshy mixed Ansco 130 I could add.

Farmers Reducer I don't have but I can probably find a formula for it.

yea .. I think caffenol is the best .
slow and not too contrasty,
and a shake of a130 to spice things up.
either way you'll get great contact printable film.
( you probably won't even need the farmer's reducer )

good luck + have fun!
John