Ed_Davor said:Well, for example at BH photo
used Hasselblad kit, is about 2000-2500 dollars, while a new Mamiya kit can be as low as $1600
It kind of proves my point, good MF used gear is as expensive or even more expensive than new entry-level MF gear
Satinsnow said:I would certainly not consider the Mamiya as an entry level system, it in its own right is a good workhorse pro system and many of us have used them for years with no problems.
When speaking about entry level MF gear, I always think of Seagul and such, if you buy a Mamiya, Hassy, Etc your not looking at a entry level gear selection.
Dave
Ed_Davor said:When I say "entry level" I mean entry to serious MF world, something you can use for pro work, or quality amateur work.
Ed_Davor said:Well thank you..
It's going to be a while before I can buy something serious (be it used or new), but all it takes is a decision, and months of sacrifice. I'll probably have to stop shooting 35mm for a while to save some money.
Daniel Lawton said:I agree with Dave about the 80mm "standard" lens. Just like 50 mm lens for 35mm cameras, standard lenses across the board are incredibly sharp and cheap because they more closely match the dimensions of the film area and are relatively easy to engineer and correct for distortion. The focal length is also very versatile depending on your shooting style so you can't go wrong starting out with one of them when building your system.
Satinsnow said:Ed,
I am going to throw this out there......but buddy you are overthinking this....really you are, your going to be happy with the Schneider, the Zeiss or the Mamiya..
The more we talk about it, means less time shooting!
You never going to find the perfect solution, but I bet, you will find something that works for you and that is the most important thing..
You need to get out and shoot...
Dave
Ed_Davor said:Ok, just to confirm this
I'm talking about The Sekor C f2.8/ 80mm N lense. It costs about $250 new. Is this the same lens we are talking about?
How does this lens compare to say Schneider 80mm lens or Zeiss 80mm lens for Hasselblad?
Ed_Davor said:How does this lens compare to say Schneider 80mm lens or Zeiss 80mm lens for Hasselblad?
cao said:Ok. Let's try another tack.
Ed_Davor said:I've got all the time in the world to talk, In fact, from now on, that's all I'll be doing regarding photography, talking. I've got to save every penny for this.
But I'd still like to know how things are in real world, in extreme magnifications, which lenses perform best in this range
cao said:Ok. Let's try another tack. I often look at negatives with a 10X diamond grading loupe when checking sharpness and cleanliness. When I fail to get a sharp negative by this standard from the Mamiya 80/2.8S twin or 90/3.8C, it boils down do poor technique on my part. Now let's look at what that implies for enlargements. If the negative looks sharp at 10X, then a 6x4.5 would print sharply at 16x20", a 6x6 will make a good 20x20", and a 6x7 will print well at 20x24". These are huge expensive bits of paper, and cost as much per sheet as a whole roll of film. The point is that a good specimen of a lens for a common pro system, Mamiya RB or C twin for instance, will give you potential for crisp enlargments to very big and expensive paper sizes. To me, the main benefit is the bigger film produces smoother tones, and the fine detail is a nice side effect. I will make a not too wild guess and say that I suspect similarly sharp negatives could be obtained with any of the major professional medium format systems, and I've seen nicely crisp negatives out of a friend's Yashica D, but she's a good shooter who knows how to wring quality out of a camera, and there were no important details composed on the edges and the corners. What I'm saying in too many words perhaps is that by choosing a major brand MF camera with a normal lens, you are very very unlikely wind up with a camera incapable of delivering of sharp prints large enough to devour significant wall space unless the camera has been seriously abused. You do mean to take pictures, don't you? Then buy a solid used system, and start burning film. Your expertise with any system means more than Schneider vs Zeiss vs etc etc etc.
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