How would you set the zoom head when using bounce flash?

[Chan Tran]

When I do a ceiing bounce often I don't get a lot of light. My Nikon SB-900 only can do a ceiling bounce at f/5.0@ISO100. I thought although I use 50mm lens I would set the zoom head on the flash to say 105mm so I get more light and since the bounce will spread the light out a lot more I wouldn't get vignetting. Well after quite a bit of experimenting I found even at 200mm on the flash head I can cover the view of the 50mm lens without vignetting but... a disappointing but.. that I still don't get any more light. I still have to expose at f/5.0 like the when I set the zoom head to 35mm.

 

[BrianShaw]

I’ve found bounce lighting with smaller power flashes to be both a bit disappointing and with little variation possible unless using a strobe-mounted bounce device. Sound familiar? There are too many variables regarding distances and reflectivity of the bounce surface, and not nearly enough light to work with. My best success has been with studio strobes and flash bulbs.

 

[Chan Tran]

I’ve found bounce lighting with smaller power flashes to be both a bit disappointing and with little variation possible unless using a strobe-mounted bounce device. Sound familiar? There are too many variables regarding distances and reflectivity of the bounce surface, and not nearly enough light to work with. My best success has been with studio strobes and flash bulbs.

I know as far as power is concerned the SB-900 and SB-800 is as powerful as they come in a shoe mount flash. Well the Quantum is more powerful but it's a rather rarity. But I do know at ISO100 I couldn't make the bounce shot at f/5.6. When I did the test I had to do it with f/5.0. But my finding is that the zoom setting on the flash head has no effect when you bounce. I think the GN for the SB-900 at 200mm zoom is 197 in feet the same as the Metz 60CT-4 and yet I can do an f/8.0 with the Metz but only f/5.0 with the SB-900 zoomed to 200mm.
As for strobe mount bounce devices I don't find anything that is soft enough for me.

 

[BrianShaw]

… and, similarly, the flash diffuser devices may help a bit (especially when used to simulate a bare-build configuration) but only partially achieve the goal. Long ago I stopped trying to do more with less in this specific regard. It takes studio strobes equipment and studio configurations to really achieve a great flash photo. For many situations, though, viewers are a lot less critical about harsh-ish lighting than us photographers tend to be.

 

[BrianShaw]

BTW, I’m currently using (and barely satisfied) using a SB-16 with main head bounced off low white acoustic ceiling or 8x10 white bounce card as well as the forward-mounted auxiliary flash for both 35mm and MF. Just barely adequate and leaves lots of room for improvement and criticism. Definitely not as soft as I’d like it.

 

[Chan Tran]

BTW, I’m currently using (and barely satisfied) using a SB-16 with main head bounced off low white acoustic ceiling or 8x10 white bounce card as well as the forward-mounted auxiliary flash for both 35mm and MF. Just barely adequate and leaves lots of room for improvement and criticism. Definitely not as soft as I’d like it.

I dislike the SB-16 because of its small flash tube that can't be turned off. It over power the main light when bounce.

 

[BrianShaw]

That can happen.

I occasionally put a piece of duct tape over it. Not as convenient as an on-off switch, though.

One day I might experiment with ND-type diffusers to reduce its influence.

 

[Chan Tran]

That can happen.

I occasionally put a piece of duct tape over it. Not as convenient as an on-off switch, though.

One day I might experiment with ND-type diffusers to reduce its influence.

aha. My wife just had the eye exam yesterday and the ophthalmologist gave her the plastics stuff to put over her glass because she was dillated. I know that thing is 1 density as I measured it before I sold my densitometer. It would cut down the light by 3 1/3 stops.

 

[wiltw]

When I do a ceiing bounce often I don't get a lot of light. My Nikon SB-900 only can do a ceiling bounce at f/5.0@ISO100. I thought although I use 50mm lens I would set the zoom head on the flash to say 105mm so I get more light and since the bounce will spread the light out a lot more I wouldn't get vignetting. Well after quite a bit of experimenting I found even at 200mm on the flash head I can cover the view of the 50mm lens without vignetting but... a disappointing but.. that I still don't get any more light. I still have to expose at f/5.0 like the when I set the zoom head to 35mm.

.... I think the GN for the SB-900 at 200mm zoom is 197 in feet the same as the Metz 60CT-4 and yet I can do an f/8.0 with the Metz but only f/5.0 with the SB-900 zoomed to 200mm.

The ceiling serves to distribute light over a broader area, as you discovered. Good that you experimented for yourself as to the lack of effect of zoom head FL on the exposure...kudos for that. You're doing what CurtisN was good for doing and posting on POTN, about 2 decades ago!

Keep in mind that the GN for SB-900 is at 200mm zoom, while the Metz is at about 30-35mm fixed FL (not zoom) head, spreading outward so not surprising the Metz yields a better exposure than the Nikon...simply more photons coming out of the Metz flashtube!
Compare the GN from the Nikon at about the same FL angle of coverage as the Metz, to see how much dimmer is the Nikon.