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How would xray film work in regular sheet film holders?

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tkamiya

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I have, potentially, a dumb question. I've never done LF.

I may have an opportunity to acquire some Xray film. I understand, xray films are double sided meaning there are emulsions on both side. Then.... how would this actually work in sheet holders? Light enters from the opening on the front side and passes through film to the back side, which then reflects on back side of the holder and scatters a bit. Wouldn't this result in halo around the image? Or is this not how it works?

I know this is dumb. It's 1:50am and I can't sleep.... :sad:
 
There are different kind of X-films: single-side or both-side coated, spectrally unsensitized or orthochromatic.

There are films with anti-halo layer(s) too.
 
There are different kind of X-films: single-side or both-side coated, spectrally unsensitized or orthochromatic.

There are films with anti-halo layer(s) too.

Can backing paper be made to prevent the OP's concern? I'm sure his opportunity is a "beggars can't be choosers" deal so if he gets double sided sheets, what steps can he take to get better images?


~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
 
There would not be a difference between backing paper and the cassette, except maybe for the degree of matting.
 
I haven't noticed marked halo in shooting 8x10, but then ultimate sharpness has never been my concern. The film is a bit large for standard holders and I've had to trim it to fit. As in every bit of advice, YRMV. It's worth the price, I think, if you're getting started. You might also think about shooting paper negatives.
 
I use x-ray film exactly as I do other film. For 8x10, I've never had to cut any down. It does, however, scratch easily. I found that developing in hangers avoids scratching, and using a tanning developer such as Pyrocat, seems to help as well.
The film holder is painted flat black on the inside to minimize reflection. Some people use Clorox to wash off the back side emulsion after exposure, but I've never seen the need to do that.
juan
 
Fuji HRT810 is a perfect fit in 8x10 film holders. I can't vouch for other films. Shoot at ASA 200 and develop in HC-110 and Rodinal. Print dev is too contrasty. You get a beautiful long tonal scale. Just be careful, the emulsion is softish, and there's twice as much of it. It contact prints and scans fine, even with the double sided emulsion. I clip a corner so I know which side is the "original" so I can print the right way if desired. it's mostly a force of habit though.

oh, and you can cut it to whatever size and load it with a red safelight.

Here's a link to some stuff I've shot on X-ray film. You can pull the developing details off the description in the images.

http://www.flickr.com/search/?w=30767964@N02&q=x-ray
 
Thank you.....

I'll now have to wait to see what I can get. Apparently, many of the local doctors are converting to digital xrays. Someone is supposed to save me some to experiment.
 
I have some 5x7 green x-ray film which slides into my holders with no problem whatsoever.
 
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