I wish I had a shot of our studio setup at the place I worked in high school. I certainly printed my share of photos like that one
The posing chair would have been a stool with an arm--just a little platform--that could be locked in any position as an arm rest or back rest. Usually the photographer had the subject lean a bit into the arm, and the picture might then be printed tilted, too, for a dynamic look. The lights probably something like Kodatron electronic flash shown on the right, below, used less than 4 feet away (not that powerful, but that close it's almost like an umbrella used farther away) with some fill, background, and hair lights. The camera in the middle of the picture shot images on split 5x7--3/-1/2 x 5 negs with a 215mm f/4.5 Paragon lens, since there was really no need for the excessive sharpness of larger film, but the photographer understood the need to impress the customers with the large camera, anyway. (For the same reason, he also used a Super Graphic with a 90mm lens and a roll back for weddings, switching to 4x5 only for the altar group shots.)
Jim Making Slide Dupes, 1966 by
Michael Darnton, on Flickr
The print could have been on Ektalure G Opal G paper (usually Opal for this---I don't remember why), printing through a
Lewco Variable Vignetter . One closed it down all the way, then spun a finger around the inside of the hole to push it out to the exact shape needed. It wouldn't make a precise hole that could jump around projections well, explaining the ghost ear in the photo. On top of the vignetter I'd use an embroidery hoop with a stocking stretched across it for about 50% of the time, for diffusion. Prints were made light and flat, by any normal standard (that's easy to see in the photo) then sepia toned. We sent them off to the colorist who added a dash of oil color to the lips and the eye color, and that was enough to make the point. I can't explain the slash of color across the back--some local affectation?
I have a lot of photos of myself shot on Sundays in that studio, but I guess the photographer hated the normal look of the OP's example shot, because mine are all low key with heavy shadows, printed dark and dramatic.