How to "write" on leader of film.

[Digger Odell]

So I have a few cameras that I would like to film test and am looking for a way to "write" on the leader so that it will be permanent. eg. survive the developing process. I would like to batch these together so developing 1 at a time is out.

What do you suggest?

 

[Steve Goldstein]

Use a good scissors to cut identifying notches in the smooth section of the leader.

 

[bdial]

Perhaps a paint marker in some light color, after processing anything dark will be very hard to read. A spotting brush or maybe a technical pen and some fixer is another possibility, but rinsing it and then loading it on a reel with the wet leader would be awkward.
Steve’s idea of notching is probably better.

 

[MattKing]

It is better to dedicate one frame to a shot which records the details.
You will most likely need to mark the cassette or backing paper as well.

 

[mcfitz]

Maybe by scratching the emulsion with a code of some sort in the leader before loading the film and exposing it?

 

[gordrob]

I am doing the same thing in the morning to test some 35mm, TLR and a Crown Graphic. I am going to use a Steno Book and record the details as to which camera, film, ISO and any other pertinent which I will shoot on the first frame. Notching works as well but you also have to keep track of your notch pattern so I have found it is easier to just include the information in the first frame. For the 4x5 I will clip the corner of the film and keep track of things that way instead of notching.

 

[Kino]

So I have a few cameras that I would like to film test and am looking for a way to "write" on the leader so that it will be permanent. eg. survive the developing process. I would like to batch these together so developing 1 at a time is out.

What do you suggest?

Get a 1/8 inch paper punch and physically punch the leader with a code of your own making.

 

[foc]

It is better to dedicate one frame to a shot which records the details.
You will most likely need to mark the cassette or backing paper as well.

I think this is the most foolproof method. I have used it many times as I have tried the notches and punch marks etc but the record/code notebook got misplaced/couldn't be found. Even when recorded onto Google cloud, still doesn't beat a photo frame of all the details.

 

[titrisol]

So I have a few cameras that I would like to film test and am looking for a way to "write" on the leader so that it will be permanent. eg. survive the developing process. I would like to batch these together so developing 1 at a time is out.

What do you suggest?

A simple Sharpie on the plastic-base side (shiny side) has worked for a long time for me.

 

[removed account4]

Get a 1/8 inch paper punch and physically punch the leader with a code of your own making.

exactly !

 

[gone]

I always keep a small piece of paper in my pocket and write down the fstop and shutter speeds used for each shot. It helps to know what's happening. Then I tape that to the film canister when the film has been shot, and put the film in that canister. Once I've done that a couple of times and can verify things w/ that particular camera/lens, I don't need to keep track of it anymore. If you're marking the film leader simply to send it to a lab for developing, just do as titrisol said and use a marker pen on the leader to identify it.

 

[bluechromis]

Have you tried a permanent marker?

 

[Steve Goldstein]

I have found fixer to be a good solvent for some “permanent” markers. Better to use a ohysical mark, or devote one frame to an image if the pertinent notes.

 

[wiltw]

Why not simply write on the base side of film leader with a permanent Sharpie fine point pen?

Many decades ago, when I would remove 135 film mid-roll, to change emulsion type, or simply to alternate from 'for the school newspaper' shooting vs. 'for the yearbook' vs. personal shooting, I would write on the emulsion side with a ballpoint pen to indicated how many frames to advance thru (with lens cap on) when reloading that partial roll back into the camera for cointinued shooting on the same roll which had been removed earlier., e.g. '-12' on the leader for the number of frames exposed on the roll. I wish Sharpies existed back then!

 

[Steve Goldstein]

Why not simply write on the base side of film leader with a permanent Sharpie fine point pen?

That works fine as long as you don't need to retain the information after processing. My own experience is that fixer can dissolve Sharpie ink, as can Isopropyl alcohol (but we're not talking about that here).

 

[Don_ih]

If the camera is not trustworthy (why test it otherwise?), taking a picture of the information may not work. If the shutter sticks, for instance, you get no image on that frame. That's ok with one camera - not great if you use more than one. The hole punch idea is probably best - just use a number of holes and a piece of masking tape on the camera with the corresponding number. Personally, I wouldn't use more than 8 inches of film to test a camera, though.

 

[RLangham]

If the camera is not trustworthy (why test it otherwise?), taking a picture of the information may not work. If the shutter sticks, for instance, you get no image on that frame. That's ok with one camera - not great if you use more than one. The hole punch idea is probably best - just use a number of holes and a piece of masking tape on the camera with the corresponding number. Personally, I wouldn't use more than 8 inches of film to test a camera, though.

If it's believed to be somewhat trustworthy (i.e., if the fp shutter may be tapering or capping but is definitely opening) then taking two or three identical frames of the information may help.

Of course, I have seen far too many camera where the shutter worked but the film transport was in the habit of misplacing frames.

 

[titrisol]

That works fine as long as you don't need to retain the information after processing. My own experience is that fixer can dissolve Sharpie ink, as can Isopropyl alcohol (but we're not talking about that here).

The other option I see is using a ballpoint pen and pressing hard to physically mark the film leader

 

[RLangham]

The other option I see is using a ballpoint pen and pressing hard to physically mark the film leader

Or something with a sharper tip so you can gently cut the emulsion. I have a carbide pen somewhere that can mark any surface that's not diamond, and it would probably be the right shape and sharpness to gently inscribe in the soft gel layer.

 

[BMbikerider]

So I have a few cameras that I would like to film test and am looking for a way to "write" on the leader so that it will be permanent. eg. survive the developing process. I would like to batch these together so developing 1 at a time is out.

What do you suggest?

A fine point permanent marker pen will withstand the developer/stop bath/ fixer/wash but it will have to be written on the film side otherwise when the film is developed it may not be easily visible on the developed emulsion

 

[E. von Hoegh]

Use a good scissors to cut identifying notches in the smooth section of the leader.

Such as good quality nail scissors.
A paper punch works well, too. Just nibble .

 

[RLangham]

Such as good quality nail scissors.
A paper punch works well, too. Just nibble .

That reminds me of the notch codes that a previous owner carved into the bottom flap of my 4x5 holders

 

[mrosenlof]

I often do a photo in a mirror of the camera for frame 1 just to record which camera it was.

you could write on the leader with a laser pointer, but you would have to do it on a portion not exposed to other light.

 

[E. von Hoegh]

That reminds me of the notch codes that a previous owner carved into the bottom flap of my 4x5 holders

I did the same thing. I painted numbers on the top of each holder, and then notched the flaps, a narrow notch for "1" and a wider notch for "5" in the Roman style.
Combined with a tiny pocket notebook, I can keep precise records of each exposure. I then copy the data on to the margin of the sheets, with a fine point paint marker, so each sheet carries it's own data. These "smartphone" apps for the same thing just make me roll my eyes, what a waste of time and effort. Occam's Razor. My system has worked perfectly for almost 40 years and it's fool proof & non-volatile. The only way to lose the data is to lose or destroy that sheet, plus there's the convenience that the data appears on every contact print, which is the only way I print 8x10.
I also use a machinist's scribe to write on the leader of 35mm film. Roll film requires a bit more care and organisation.

 

[RLangham]

I did the same thing. I painted numbers on the top of each holder, and then notched the flaps, a narrow notch for "1" and a wider notch for "5" in the Roman style.
Combined with a tiny pocket notebook, I can keep precise records of each exposure. I then copy the data on to the margin of the sheets, with a fine point paint marker, so each sheet carries it's own data. These "smartphone" apps for the same thing just make me roll my eyes, what a waste of time and effort. Occam's Razor. My system has worked perfectly for almost 40 years and it's fool proof & non-volatile. The only way to lose the data is to lose or destroy that sheet, plus there's the convenience that the data appears on every contact print, which is the only way I print 8x10.
I also use a machinist's scribe to write on the leader of 35mm film. Roll film requires a bit more care and organisation.

When I bought some of the darkroom supplies of an old MF photographer and printmaker, I acquired a rubber stamp for the back of prints that has spaces to write in all that information as well, for recording the information long term on an archival copy of the photograph.