How to use Lenox 100?

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eggshell

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I've got to bother you guys once again.

I've heard good things about Lenox 100. Bought some to use and was disappointed. The palladium print turned out really weak and dead looking. Arentz's book mentioned no treatment needed. And I even double coated. Where did I go wrong? Did the paper changed formula?

Also bought Bristol Rising Drawing paper. It prints really nice. Pretty robust wet strength and good blacks. Thanks again.
 

kudzma

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Yes, the paper changed a few years back. I was very nice, but now needs a presoak in 2% oxalic acid. Even then I don't like it as much as the old stuff.
 
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eggshell

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Just like to report that I soaked the Lenox paper in 2% oxalic acid for 2 minutes. Better contrast but weak black and grainy throughout. A poor quality print. It's a pity because I do like the nice warm tone it produced. Anyone who's managed to get this paper to work, please reply or PM me. Thanks!
 

cjarvis

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Sep 24, 2002
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I've never gotten it to successfully work with pt/pd...only cyanotype and gum.
 
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eggshell

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Thanks cjarvis. Guess I'll move on. Appreciate it.
 
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eggshell

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Okay, I refuse to let it go! I soaked this paper in 2% oxalate acid for 8 min. this time. I got a much, much better print. I think it can work. Problem is I get a haze across the print, particularly apparent in the low values. Don't know if this is solarisation or fog, but using the same negative on Artist Rising Bristol (which by the way, works better with a gelatine size, except that I don't quite enjoy the neutral tone), I don't get the haze. Lenox 100 is also very stubborn to clear. Can I tap on someone's experience here? Thanks again.
 
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eggshell

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Sep 22, 2004
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eggshell said:
but using the same negative on Artist Rising Bristol (which by the way, works better with a gelatine size, except that I don't quite enjoy the neutral tone),

Just like to say thay I have abandoned gelatin sizing as subsequent test proofed to be inconsistent, grainy and takes forever to clear. Forgive me for the misinformation!
 
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