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How to use Hypo Clearing Agent in a Kostiner Print Washer?

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Sirius Glass

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I just purchased a Kostiner Print Washer. Since I am living in Los Angeles I am concerned about keeping the water usage down. How to use Hypo Clearing Agent in a print washer?


Clarification: Can I put Hypo Clearing Agent into a print washer or should I keep it in a tray?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
My HCA directions call for 5 minute rinse in water, 5 minutes in HCA, then 5 minutes in water.
 
Why would you want to put the HCA into the print washer? How would you agitate prints for 5 minutes if the prints are in the washer with HCA?
 
Why would you want to put the HCA into the print washer? How would you agitate prints for 5 minutes if the prints are in the washer with HCA?

I am looking for the best usage and it that turns out to putting HCA into the print washer so be it.
 
I have been reading the "Toning and processing for archival performance" chapter of Tim Rudman's book The Master Photographer's Toning Book Reprinted 2010 to get a better understanding of using the archival print washer.
 
I think you will have to forego the HCA in the print washer and add one tray to your set up.
 
Hypo clearing agent has a 24 hour life in an open tray. How much HCA would you need to fill the Kostiner washer? I think it would be less expensive to treat the prints in a tray of HCA which would use less solution.
 
I will put the HCA in a tray and agitate the prints.
 
I'm dealing with the same issues with water usage in my darkroom and also bought a used Kostiner 16x10 washer. I've posted some questions about effective washing and I got a referred to this article.
http://www.film-and-darkroom-user.org.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=344

It's not just the washing and using HCA, but your workflow also.

I also use a residual hypo test. http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Archival/archival.html

Use the test only on out takes. it leaves a stain that doesn't washout.

Below are the directions for the HT-2 residual hypo test. Note the bold-face type (my emphasis)

Kodak® Hypo Test Solution HT-2
Distilled Water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 ml
28% Acetic Acid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .125 ml
Silver Nitrate, Crystals . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.5 g
Distilled Water to Make . . . . . . . . . . . 1 l
(Store in a tightly sealed brown glass bottle away from strong light sources. This solution stains everything it touches, so don’t splash it around.)

To use for paper, place one drop on the border of the print, let it stand for 2 minutes, then rinse with water. If the print is thoroughly washed the solution will produce only a very faint tea-colored stain, or possibly no stain at all. If it is inadequately washed, the solution will produce a rather dark tea-colored stain. To judge the stains accurately you should purchase a Kodak® Hypo Estimator, which costs about $3.

To use for film, cut off a small piece of film and drop it into the test solution for 3 minutes. Properly washed films should show virtually no discoloration.

Now, I'm not saying you should test negatives that you want to print. Use a scrap for the test. However, if you are getting a stain that doesn't washout (sic.), then you probably aren't washing well enough!

Yes, the silver nitrate will stain if you leave it on longer than the three-minute test time, but after three minutes, you should not be seeing much of a stain.

@Sirius,

You don't really need the wash before using the HCA; just transfer directly from the fix to the HCA tray. This practice is noted by Kodak in the directions and reduces the capacity of the HCA by about 50%. This is economical enough if you don't need the extra capacity for one session (HCA doesn't last longer than one session anyway) and you'll save the water used for the first wash.

If you are printing on fiber-base paper, then you need a much longer wash than 5 minutes after the HCA (30 min mininum, but I like 60). For RC paper, I would still use more than 5 minutes. Save water by controlling the flow rate and/or using a dump-fill regime. Taking one less shower a week will probably make up for lots of print washing...

FWIW, I transfer prints directly from fix 2 to the wash-aid tray, agitate there for 5-10 minutes and then transfer to the washer directly without an intermediate rinse and wash for 60 minutes minimum. This is for fiber-base papers.

Best,

Doremus

Best,

Doremus
 
Last edited by a moderator:
When I work with silver gel fibre papers: Quick rinse with water in a tray. 5 minutes agitation in HCA. Wash in print washer. Bob's yur uncle.
 
Oh oh

Scudder;1735094]Now, I'm not saying you should test negatives that you want to print. Use a scrap for the test. However, if you are getting a stain that doesn't washout (sic.), then you probably aren't washing well enough!

Thanks for the warning. Do you mean negative's or the print's stain should washout. Maybe both? You opinions are highly valued Doremus.

Best,
Don
 
Thanks for the warning. Do you mean negative's or the print's stain should washout. Maybe both? You opinions are highly valued Doremus.

Best,
Don

Don,

What I mean is what Kodak says the results of the test should be for adequate washing, and that is "virtually no discoloration" after three minutes. I'm sure the test area will darken with time after that if not washed out, but you shouldn't be getting a noticeable stain with HT-2 after three minutes unless you're not washing well enough. Wash until you get "virtually no discoloration" with your test.

FWIW, you can wash the test solution out after three minutes and probably minimize the staining. That said, test a scrap piece of film as described in the test instructions and not a good negative. Just be sure that the scrap has had the same fix/wash treatment.

Best,

Doremus
 
Thanks Doremus! Your advice is great appreciated. Here in California, we have a very bad drought and I'm trying to wash my prints more efficiently.

Best,
Don
 
Thanks Doremus! Your advice is great appreciated. Here in California, we have a very bad drought and I'm trying to wash my prints more efficiently.

Best,
Don

Yes, thank you.
 
I used to use a water wasting Arky tumbling washer

Yes, thank you.

Just like you, I got an old Kostiner archival print washer. It's a 16x20 beast that I got used from a photographer in San Francisco that now has gone digital. I'm still running test on the optimal flow that saves water and yet effective.
 
Just like you, I got an old Kostiner archival print washer. It's a 16x20 beast that I got used from a photographer in San Francisco that now has gone digital. I'm still running test on the optimal flow that saves water and yet effective.

Do you want to trade with me for a more water efficient and lighter 11"x14" Kostiner Print Washer?
 
Thanks

Do you want to trade with me for a more water efficient and lighter 11"x14" Kostiner Print Washer?

But no. You might not want it because it has a slow leak anyway. Hope you're enjoying yours!
 
But no. You might not want it because it has a slow leak anyway. Hope you're enjoying yours!

What is wrong with taking a leak? A pet store can tell you how to reseal you tank.
 
Great tip

What is wrong with taking a leak? A pet store can tell you how to reseal you tank.

I'll try to fix it. It a slow seeping leak. The size works for me. I can wash (2) 11x14s per slot.
 
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