How to time sheet film tray development?

[Removed Account]

I have been having inconsistent results with my 4x5 negs, and I think a major part of the problem is my inconsistency in processing. The film is t-max 100, developed at the recommended 7:30 in Ilfotec HC, stopped for 30 seconds in ordinary vinegar (5% acetic acid), and fixed for 4 minutes in Ilford Rapid Fixer. My main problem is that I have no idea how to time the baths in the dark. For the longest, the developer, I have been setting the alarm on my cell phone so that it is in my pocket and I don't get my chemical hands on anything. The problem is that I do it with the lights on, so I don't even have the film holders open and have no way of judging time once I am in the dark. So I could be developing my negatives for way more, or likely way less, or spot on, and I don't know. After the alarm rings for the developer I just count mississippis for the remaining time, which is not exactly accurate, although I figure the reccommended fixing time is 2-5 minutes, so erring on the long side I should be OK.

The point is, how does one time their development accurately, in the dark, without getting their chemical hands all over anything?

- Justin

 

[fschifano]

Get an electronic kitchen timer that counts down in minutes and seconds for about $10 or less from Target, WalMart, or any place that carries kitchen equipment. place it next to the trays. Preset the time. Immerse film. Start timer. When it's done, the timer beeps at you. Done.

 

[removed account4]

i use one of those big square gralab clocks, and after shuffling film in a tray 3 feet away and sqwinting my eyes after 8 minutes i hit the green safelight. my hands are in the chemicals with my film ...

 

[Maris]

I use a Voice Craft talking timer. It costs about $20 here in Australia.

 

[PBrooks]

I use a electronic enlarger timer, with the illumination off and the beep on. It's really easy all you do is count the beeps

 

[George Papantoniou]

I use a Voice Craft talking timer. It costs about $20 here in Australia.

Maris, is there a site on the www where we can see this timer and its specifications ?

 

[jford]

Get an old tape recorder and an old cassette tape (remember them?) Record the times, noting every minute or whenever you want to agitate or such like. Mine has times for N-2, N-1, N, N+1 and N+2 for Pyrocat HD. At about 8 minutes I can hear my daughter crying in the background and I jump every time, thinking it's really her, not on the tape. Have different tapes for different developers. Put a few more minutes on the tape so you can time stop and fixer as well. Rewind and do it all again!

John.

 

[Ole]

I use a CD player, and select tracks with the right length and beat.

Satie's "Gymnopedies" are my favorites for tray development.

 

[Monophoto]

Gralab 300 darkroom timer mounted on the wall several feet away from the developing trays. The phosphorescent hands can be seen in the dark, but they don't generate enough light to fog the film.

I also bought a roll of phosphorescent tape from which I cut small tabs that I applied to the face of the timer to note critical points - the standard developing time N, N-1, N+1, etc so that I can make adjustments "on the fly" in the dark.

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

I use an Omega Pro Lab timer with a phosphorescent dial, which is much like those big Gralab timers mentioned above. They don't put out enough light to fog film. I generally keep a paper towel handy to wipe my hands when I have to reset the timer.

 

[juan]

I've used most of these methods, plus used a metronome set to 60 beats per minute, and found the easiest method is to use something made for the job - a Gralab (or Omega Pro) timer. I use mine only a couple of feet above the film and have never seen any evidence of fogging.
juan

 

[edtbjon]

As a start, the timer on your cell phone does the job, even though there are better timers. But you say that you "don't even have the film holders open ..." when you start your timing, which leaves a large gap for error in timing.
So, get a film box, or any box that is decently light tight for that matter. Unload the film into the box. Set EVERYTHING up, so that all you have to do is to turn out the light and open the box. Do a second check. Do a third check. Now, put your finger on the timer button on your cell phone, turn out the lights and start feeding the sheets from the box to the developer.
Also, do a couple of practice runs with wasted film etc. so that you know how much time every step take. Start with practicing with the lights on, then with the lights out. Actually the same drill as in the f***ing army when (at least I) had to do a similar drill with disassembling and assembling my rifle.

When you are done with the first part, i.e. the developer, and have gotten the films over to the fixer, the films are almost fully lightproof. You can use a faint light aimed away from the tray and reset the timer for the fixing time. Relax, you are not in a hurry anymore. When you have dropped the films into the fixer a normal darkroom safelight will do no harm to the films. That is the time when I personally turn on a subdued (nicer to the eyes) but normal white light. Again, if you don't trust that the films are lightsafe, point the light the other way.

 

[mjs]

I use a Gralab 300 set at the back of a 12" deep shelf about four feet above the trays. Light from the hands doesn't shine onto the trays and I cover the face of the gralab with paper when I'm unloading holders. I've been using that configuration for four or five years now and have never had fogged film.

mjs

 

[Sanjay Sen]

I do it like David, except that I use a Gralab 300 timer. My development tray is about 4-5 feet away from the timer, and so there is not enough 'glow' to fog the unprocessed sheets. Due to the small size of the bathroom in my apartment, I end up having the tray of fixer only about 2 feet (vertically down) from the timer - haven't noticed any problem so far with this setup.

Good luck!


Best wishes,
Sanjay

 

[Tony Egan]

Maris, is there a site on the www where we can see this timer and its specifications ?

I use the same talking timer as Maris. Here is a link to an Australian store but I'm sure Radio Shack and other chains would have similar timers.

http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/468e5c9c03f477942741c0a87f9c0752/Product/View/Y5187

It talks every minute and then every 10 seconds in the last minute. One the countdown is finished after some incessant beeping this timer continues to count "x minutes over" which is good for timing rinsing and fixing without resetting anything.

 

[GeorgesGiralt]

Hi Justin !
Find in the yellow pages the phone and address of the local charity supporting blind people.
They often sell equipment to turn their life a lot easier. I bought from such people a set of 3 talking timers for less than 30 Euro. One is set for dev. the second for the stop and the last one for fixer. They warn you at regular interval, every minute or so and ten to ten seconds below the minute.
Paint the start and stop buttons with glow in the dark paint and you're done.
Don't forget to make a donation to the charity.

 

[GeorgesGiralt]

Oh, I just forgot to say that the timers I bought are the one on the Australian site.
Of course, they speak French in my country ;-)

 

[david b]

I do my film in the light. I use a Jobo 2521 day light tank.

 

[Kilgallb]

Take an ordinary radio clock alarm and plug it into your enlarger timer safelight plug. Alternativley, plug it into a power bar with an on off switch.

Just before you drop the film in the developer, turn on the alarm clock. It will start flashing 12:00 in one second intervals. They all do this.

So if your develpment time is 5:30, wait until the timer says 12:05. then count the flashes.

If you leave the alarm clock across the room it will not fog the film. If you are concerned, tape some exposed 35 mm film across the display. this will reduce the light output.

I have used the method for 4x5 devlopment for two years without a single fogged film. It is also cheap, a SONY clock alarm costs only $15 and you can listen to radio too.

 

[Removed Account]

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone! I bought a little kitchen timer, but didn't notice that it does hours and minutes, :rolleyes: . It works well enough for now, but I'll have to find one that does seconds. My last few negatives came out really well, now I just have to work on my focusing, printing, remembering that the numbers on the shutter are fractions, and I should be rolling!

- Justin