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How to test Hasselblad 500 C/M

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campy51

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I have two Hasselblads 500 C/M coming in a couple of days and wonder if there are things I should be testing for before I put film in it.
 
I should write a book on this camera. No, unless you have funds to send them off for a proper CLA, then just practice shoot it a few times to check for obvious things and put the film in and go shooting. But whatever you do if there's trouble, don't take it apart and start tinkering. This is one camera that tinkerers can only make worse. If you're happy with it, then great. Regards.
 
Probably just as important as testing... or maybe moreso... make sure you know how it’s supposed to work! Then put a roll of film in it and shoot. But at the first sign of any trouble give serious thought to a professional overhaul.
 
It's a good practice to always keep the body and the lenses in the cocked state. Otherwise you could get the classic problem.
 
The usual stuff like any other mechanical camera. Read the manual so you know how to fire it properly and cock the shutter. Fire the shutter at all speeds and see if they sound about right (especially the slow ones). Fire it in bulb (or 1s) at all apertures and see if the aperture stops down. Then load some film and see if they have any light leaks. That's about it.

If you like the camera it is probably worth getting them serviced anyway, including the lens and back. Will make sure it works for years.
 
Can only repeat what others have said:READ MANUAL!!! Make a habit of winding camera immediately after firing shutter. For first time definitely read manual and look at illustrations when loading insert.
Most important: never, NEVER NEVER USE FORCE TO DO ANYTHING!
Hasselblad cameras are robust, made of top quality materials made with precision, but they require a more systematic method of working them than most cameras.
 
I'm new to Hasselblad, only a few months with my 503CX.

I'll repeat what others said: READ THE MANUAL. Hasselblads are wonderful machines, but operation is different from other cameras. You MUST follow the instructions or you will jam it or even worse break it.

David Odess is considered an expert in repairing Hasselblads. See his FAQ page at http://www.david-odess.com/faq.html There is a section for testing/checking out a Hasselblad, read and follow that. You can see if there are any issues before you load a test roll.

For loading the film, do a search on Youtube. Much easier to follow a video than printed instructions for this task (in my opinion, of course)
 
Odd are that you will need to replace the light seals on the backs. This is easy to do, and inexpensive.
 
Is leaving it cocked true for cameras with the shutter in the lenses?
Practically speaking, it is always a good idea to leave both lenses and bodies cocked when the lenses with shutters are removed from the bodies.
It makes changing lenses faster and trouble free.
Some cameras and lenses cause fewer practical problems than Hasselblads if you don't do this.
Leaving a shutter cocked is really no harder on the shutter than leaving it un-cocked.
What is hard on a shutter is leaving it unused for a long time.
 
Read the manual and follow the instructions.
Always leave the lenses and body cocked.
Never remove a lens or put on a lens unless both the lens and body are cocked.
 
I agree: READ THE MANUAL before you do anything with it. There are a number of ways to unintentionally break/jam the camera if you don't observe proper procedures, like swapping lenses (NEVER do this unless the shutter is wound/cocked).

http://www.cameramanuals.org/hasselblad/hasselblad_500c_m-swc_m.pdf

Odd are that you will need to replace the light seals on the backs. This is easy to do, and inexpensive.

Unless you know for a fact that the previous owner has installed new light seals on the back(s), you can assume they should be done. You can buy a replacement seal kit on fleabay.
 
I'm new to Hasselblad, only a few months with my 503CX.

I'll repeat what others said: READ THE MANUAL. Hasselblads are wonderful machines, but operation is different from other cameras. You MUST follow the instructions or you will jam it or even worse break it.

David Odess is considered an expert in repairing Hasselblads. See his FAQ page at http://www.david-odess.com/faq.html There is a section for testing/checking out a Hasselblad, read and follow that. You can see if there are any issues before you load a test roll.

For loading the film, do a search on Youtube. Much easier to follow a video than printed instructions for this task (in my opinion, of course)

I'm lucky David Odess is the next town from me.
 
A few more things:

1. In case it hasn't been mentioned: READ THE MANUAL. Completely.

2. When you've been playing around with the camera, looking through the viewfinder, focusing, winding, tripping the shutter, you may experience a heart-stopping moment doing this sequence:

* wind the crank (zzziiippp), release the shutter (thwump)
* wind the crank (zzziiippp), release the shutter (thwump)
* wind the crank (zzziiippp), release the shutter (thwump)
* wind the crank (zzziiippp), release the shutter (thwump)
* wind the crank (zzziiippp), shutter won't release

What's happened? It's not broken: you've probably made your 12 shots. Assuming you don't have film in the back, pull out the film-insert to reset the counter and all is good.

Take care of your Hasselblad and it will take care of you. Mine have been in top working condition for over 20 years; they are very fine cameras.
 
I am probably going to sell one of them so if anybody is interested look for my ad. One is the chrome version and one the black version. I am partial to the chrome but will keep the best one. It will also come with a 150mm.
 
Chrome versus black does not effect the photograph.
 
My final remarks on this thread are to take the camera straight to Odess as soon as you get it. An old unserviced Hasselblad is nothing but a beautiful expensive and intricate Kodak Brownie. There is a high probably of focus error due to old foam behind the mirror, and the possibility of jam at any time. And if it does jam, repairs become much more expensive. Once serviced it is a bastion of dependability and quality work for a long time. There just isn't any middle ground. It's not like a Nikkormat, where you can just shoot forever with it unserviced and get by. A Hasselblad isn't going to let you do it.
 
Leaving the shutter cocked is no problem at all, I think it is even intended to be used that way. The electrical Hasselblads always re-cock immediately after exposure. They would not have designed them that way if it was harmful to the shutter.
 
My final remarks on this thread are to take the camera straight to Odess as soon as you get it. An old unserviced Hasselblad is nothing but a beautiful expensive and intricate Kodak Brownie. There is a high probably of focus error due to old foam behind the mirror, and the possibility of jam at any time. And if it does jam, repairs become much more expensive. Once serviced it is a bastion of dependability and quality work for a long time. There just isn't any middle ground. It's not like a Nikkormat, where you can just shoot forever with it unserviced and get by. A Hasselblad isn't going to let you do it.

Especially since the OP in near David Odess.
 
Leaving the shutter cocked is no problem at all, I think it is even intended to be used that way. The electrical Hasselblads always re-cock immediately after exposure. They would not have designed them that way if it was harmful to the shutter.

Yes, Hasselblads are designed to be cocked after each photograph and the cameras and lenses should be stored in the cocked configuration. See sentence #2 in post #17.
 
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